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Everything posted by tlinn
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I am flying into Palm Springs on the evening of March 11th and I would like to spend a few days in Jtree before I meet up with a partner in Vegas on March 15th. I'll be on my own with a full rack and rope. Let me know if you're interested in meeting up for a few days cragging.
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I just wanted to revive this thread to talk about how cool the valley is. I used to go scramble up the Needle, Mt. Hope, or Wells Peak after school! Looking back on my time growing up there I really took it for granted. Now, I'm living in Toronto studying chiropractic and I will likely come back to Hope and work there when I'm done. It has a lot to offer and isn't too far from the city if you need to go out for some urban fun. Being in Toronto right now I am missing Hope (and Vancouver) like crazy. I am planning on working evenings as a chiropractor so I will have tonnes of time to work on new FA's, ski up the Coquihalla/Manning, or climb ice. In college at UBC I still continued to climb a lot in and around Hope. Most of the time with my dad or friends from school. As Squamish becomes more crowded I am more motivated to climb in the valley. FA's are way more exciting and rewarding to climb. There is so much unclimbed rock if you are willing to put some time in with a brush/ice axe. Speaking of the rock climbing in Hope, when I was home over the xmas break I went by Cheyenne Sports. They only have one copy of the Nicolum Creek/Knob topo so if you do go by there maybe someone can make some more copies for next summer? They seem to be quite popular! I am learning web design right now so I may try and make a Fraser Valley rock climbing website with all of the bouldering and cragging. It would be a great site to have because there is not currently a guidebook. Although, I know Drew has flirted with the idea. Hope is cool and I can hardly wait to move back in 3.5 years!
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Climb in Hope and keep the rock clean for me!
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Trip: Manning Park - Manning Mixed Date: 12/22/2006 Trip Report: Climbed Manning Mixed today. It was pretty fun. The first half was mostly ice and the top half was mostly frozen rock and turf mixed in with some steep snow wallowing. Nepopekum Gear Notes: Stubby screws. A few small cams or pins would help. Approach Notes: 1.5 hours on snowshoes from the bottom of the blue chair.
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TRUE DAT! But I`ve been practicing my crevasse rescue skills on the side of the 401 and climbing the CN Tower! Sucka.
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Most peaks have an easy route to the top you can climb without a rope. Climbing on a glacier if you have no experience with crevasse rescue can also be dangerous. Just pick a nice high one that doesn`t involve crossing a glacier. Take a look at Classic Climbs in the Cascades or something.
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first ascent [TR] Hedley Ice - Private Reserve WI3+ 45m FA 12/9
tlinn replied to G-spotter's topic in Ice Climbing Forum
That looks sweet! Way to make a day out of a bad forecast! Although you could have spent the day picking up girls at the bar in Princeton if the route was melted out. -
Loose Lady Illusion Dweller a.k.a. Tangerine Streamlined Disco Baby? Wait...maybe if I go drop some acid I will remember.
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A few favs not mentioned: - Mental Physics - Face climb to the left of M.P. - Moosedog Tower south face. - Loose Lady - Headstone Rock
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I`d like to get a few recommendations for some new crampons to buy. I already have more of an alpine climbing type crampon which I climb water ice with (on occasion). I think it is a G14 rigid strap-on design. I would like something that is more suited to steep waterfall ice but I can still do the occasional alpine climb with. First of all, should I go rigid or semi-rigid? I know I want something I can change between mono and dual points but which one? And I definetely want something with a toe/heel bail because I am tired of freezing my hands while fooling around with my old strap-on crampons. Please help me decide on something... Thanks!
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Battlefield Earth with John Travolta
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Thanks Dru!!! Very much appreciated.
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Just one question...what did you think of the grades? pitch 1 - 5.9? pitch 2 - 5.8? pitch 3 - 5.8? pitch 4 - 5.10b/c?
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Right on! Thanks for the report! I would like to post a pdf but for some reason the copy of the route description I have won`t open so I will have to wait until xmas to get the file off my parent`s computer and upload it. But it is great to hear you had fun up there and survived the mud avalanche. It is really steep from the base of Hwy 12 to Kemosabe and I have slipped down that before on my ass!
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If you want mountains in South America in July you should go to Bolivia or Peru. I really have to recommend Bolivia. Cheapest country in South America and some of the most amazing scenery anywhere...plus, the people are really cool. I haven`t been to Chile or Argentina but I would recommend you save them for December/January...however, if you are bringing skis then it`s a whole other story...the skiing looks incredible down there.
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[TR] Yak Peak- Speedway (11 pitches, Grade II 5.8) 10/9/2006
tlinn replied to G-spotter's topic in British Columbia/Canada
When I climbed that route I remember rappelling back down until about two pitches off the ground. At that point, after getting tired of rappelling the 30 degree slab we decided to walk down, which is about the same as walking off the Apron....plus, I really needed to take a shit! But I remember the 5.8 pitch got your attention if you place your foot on a bit of glacial polish by mistake... You would probably leave a pound of skin on the slab before skidding to a hault. -
I see a lot more people using figure 8's over there rather than ATC's. What`s up with that?
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There is now a route description copy at the Hope Visitor Infocentre. If you need to get a copy just go in and ask. There are also a limited number of hard copies at Cheyenne Sports and The Blue Moose on Wallace street. Cheyenne was also willing to make extra copies for folks to use. Any questions or new route info, send to me at hopeclimbs@hotmail.com cheers, Ty
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Not true! I may go to the Gunks on the long weekend!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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I am dropping off Hope Climbing Route Descriptions at the Hope Visitor Infocentre tomorrow. I will also try and drop them off at a few other places in town but I will see how that goes and update here. It is simply a one page back and front write-up describing the routes. I didn`t get nearly as much done as I had hoped this summer but there is enough for a good days cragging. There have been 10 routes climbed there so far. I am moving to Toronto on Saturday so that is it for the season.
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The glacier is still there but it is very passable on the right side without crampons or an ice axe. This however, involves passing under the line of fire and a big piece calved off and avalanched while we watched a few hundred meters away. We decided to call it a day and came back down. Others may feel more comfortable but on this particular day we took it as a sign and ran away.
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Approach from the Radium side...not the Canmore side. Way faster than coming in via lake Magog.
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Stuff to do in/around Rio
tlinn replied to pup_on_the_mountain's topic in The rest of the US and International.
I was there last summer (their winter) in late August. It was 38 degrees and the beaches were packed with people playing soccer and volleyball. At night we hit the samba clubs and drank coconut milk on Copacabana Beach. The view from the top of Sugarloaf is stunning at night! There is bouldering around the sugarloaf if you are going solo. I went to the bottom of some of the more popular crags and I was lucky to meet up with some friendly locals that didn`t mind climbing as a group of 3. Otherwise if you`re looking for partners go to the climbing clubs. The guidebook I bought is call "Urca, Guia de Escaladas" and it is in Portugeuse. The website is called Guiadaurca.com. Good luck and have fun! Rio is amazing! -
Hi there, I`d like to get a nice place to stay for me and my girlfriend in Squamish this weekend. Something with a bit of character, like maybe a bed and breakfast. I was thinking about the Brew Pub Inn but not sure what the rooms are like and it wouldn`t be much of a surprise cause we go there for beers after climbing anyway. Any recommendations? Thanks,