corvallisclimb
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Posts posted by corvallisclimb
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Get better soon homie! We gotta shred the traverse this summer!
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HAHAHA classic dude, love it. That was going to be my next question. What the hells going on with all them ropes?!?!?!?
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We managed to have plenty of fun in an undisclosed location. Didn't notice any bad weather. Even got Alan Watts out of climbing retirement Friday to do some worthless FA.
Alan Watts practicing his dissapearing act.
Bryan on belay duty.
The junk show.
Bryan looking forward to some chicken, brats, chicharones and pbrrrrrrrrrrr.
Edit to add: And Eric wasup with the TR name... It jus don't make no sense!
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Yo Mikey!... free that bitch, Brad Heller from SLC did last year at .12d, no problem for you. He also did an excellent job of rebolting the rest route with Ryan Lawson. He posted all the juicy beta on mp.com I think. Hopefully I'll see ya in the valley again this year.
Nice work Eric! Way to finally knock her off the list, another one of the classic Oregon aid lines! The picture of Ben reminds me of one of the better days of my life when Jim A and I slapped those anchor bolts in during a speedy five hour ascent in 2007. Yes Jims block was 3-5 that day
Edit: Also Jim and I also tryed to do that direct finish another time but yes obviously too much drilling and crap rock kept it from ever happening.
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Oh ya and the Picnic Lunch Wall went free last summer by Brad Heller from SLC at a modest 12d. The crux being pulling the bulge before the belay on the second pitch. He did a great job finishing up the re-bolting job that Jim Anglin and I started. He said it would definatly go clean, so did you guys do it clean? When I did it last in the Fall of 09 we nailed 3 times I think, but I'm totally light! Way to finially knock her off! Now go do Palo Verde. A touch more challenging, and you surley get to play with the hammer a bit.
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HAHA is it going to take you as long to write a TR as it took you guys to climb the damn thing
We were worried about you guys for a little bit, but ya'll just kept pushing, and really sped things up the last 100' hehe -
It is free climb-able at a relatively moderate standard. Jeff Thomas and crew added and/or replaced just enough bolts to make it safe when the FFA was made(1979). Other than anchors and upgrading those original free climbing bolts why not leave well enough alone?
Ummm Craggyman- I appricate your concern for historys sake, but thats about as far as your argument makes it. As I stated before the FA party pulled all of there hangers, the only original things are the empty shells, wich led to the addition of many more useless bolts. The only history your seeing are those bolts added by other later parties because the FA party did not use the proper hardware. Its great that your okay with free climbing on the old shitty hardware, but that route is not getting freed at all any more because that crap only gets older and people only get wiser. Saying that replacing the bolts is "dumbing the route" down is asinine. Next time I dumb a route down I'll make sure and let you know.
Edit: Also this thread is about climbing history, not about the ethics of replacing old hardware. If you want to question my actions please do it via PM.
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Smith Rock State Park
The Kangaroo - North Ledges Traverese
3 Anchor Bolts
4 Lead Bolts
W/ Bryan Schmitz March 2011
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Alan Watts on top of Lost Hardware Pinnacle, with Dissapearing Tower on the left.
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Some notes to back up the pictures...
The tent stakes where from the original ascent. It amazing how they are still there and suprisingly solid all things considered.
On the first ascent of Steins Pillar, the FAist pulled most of their homemade hangers from the philips shells. So when Fred Becky, and I think Eric Bjornstad and who else I cant remember came for the second ascent, they found this out. So the drove back to Prineville and bought half inch lead strips about half a cm thick. They wrapped this around various pitons to the right thickness and hammered them in to the holes. Bomber, hence all the crap. I'm thinking I'm going to give Steins a solid clean up job in a month or two.
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Hand made Pat Callis hangers. On the left from the top of Hen Rock and on the right from the SE Face of Rooster Rock. Circa mid 1950's.
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Hand made Dean Fry angle. Made in the Corvallis High School shop. Circa 1970.
Thanks to Jeff Thomas for hooking me up with this peice. Too cool!
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kevino- Everything in that picture has been skiied. Theres a picture of Glenn Plake skiing the one just over my right shoulder on Lee's peak. Supposedly on a day with horrible conditions. Its not very hard, but a great looking line. That day there was a set of tracks down that one and the less prominent one just to the left. I've toured back in that area twice but only by myself so I didnt do anything too crazy. In that picture the peak on the right is Lookout Peak, then Lee's Peak, then Angel Peak in the back ground. Angel basin between Lee's and Angels provides some insanly cool backcounty to mess around in. All easily accessible from the the ski area. Where that picture of me is taken where about drop in for our last run of the day wich would take us back to the ski area.
here is a picture kinda showing the terrain
red=top and bottom of the lift
blue=skiing
yellow=skinning
pink=roughly where the cat skiing was (obviously we didnt ski up hill like shown)
purple=lees peak chute
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So I went cat skiing at Anthony Lakes. It is totally rad and worth every penny in my opinion. To begin, I got a call from my doctor while skiing up there Thursday morning, when I listened to the message it sounded urgent. I've been having many recent health issues, some known some unknown. So I was not able to call back so it weighed heavy on me all day. Skiing all day while thinking jeeze I'm probably dying, I thought hell I might as well go cat skiing before hand. Knowing from looking online they said they offered half days for $89 wich sounded fine with me. I went into the shop to inquire and she said she would sign me up for a half day, but if the cat booked up with people wanting full days she would bump me off. At that point I really didnt want to find out I'm dying and then get bumped off the cat, so I splurged and bought the full day. The cat did not fill up, there where 11 of us, one guide and one ski patroller, and Wayne our cat driver. All where incredibly cool. Sam our patroller was totally rad and will hopefully be reading this. Brent our guide was a farmer from Haines, and was full of entertainment, you really just could not have asked for a better guide. His wife Mary ripped it up with us as well. To round out the group, there where a few locals, one guy from Portland, one from Alaska, and two lucky kids and there dad from Bend kicking off their spring break. I was a little worried when the two kids showed up in the morning that they may hold the group back, but they where total rippers. All in all we did nine runs and skiied about 10,500 vertical feet. All in untracked fresh and light powder. The cat it self is super comfy, and theyve got water and juice on tap, and snacks and lunch at hand. You even get coffee and breakfast in the lodge before you take off. The skiing I thought was incredible, nothing insane, but pleanty of oppritunities for some nice cliff drops and pillow lines. I'll let the pictures and smiles you see speak for them selves.
Finished the day off taking my girlfriend out to dinner at the Snaffle Bit in John Day, as she graciously skiied by her self all day while I had my own fun.Hopefully she will be shredding the GNAR in no time. The Snaffle Bit kicks ass, definatly the best food in Grant county. The 16oz ribeye was probably more like 22ozs and cooked to perfection along with everything else and freaking huge portions. Stop here if yout in John Day! But you might need a reservation! Oh and thankfully as it turns out I'm not dying, at least yet anyways, but still have a lot to deal with in the next coming year.
Hats off to Anthony Lakes for running a top notch ski area. This place seriously kicks ass. Rick Pignone their general manager for this year, as it turns out trained Jim Anglin as a ski patroller back in the day. The world seems to feel smaller every day! These guys do it right up there and a just a down right great group of people. Check it out.
Oh and thanks to NW ALpine for hooking me up with these rad salopettes so I can continue to shred the GNAR in style.
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Ya... I was skiing Stevens for a couple days last week via Leavenworth, and on the way up hill one day we saw three, yes THREE unmaked cops. Looks like any old sedan, wait and spark the bowl in the p-lot or watch the hell out! And this is on the other side of the hill by Coles Corner and such, so they must be god damn everywhere.
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Just fix the rope and have them jumar the whole pitch? Why waste time switching from free to aid on a pitch they obviously cant do to begin with. Jumaring is always faster. Then you will get a chance to rest instead of hauling them up the pitch (sounds like you might be rope gunning). When ever I do big free routes with people and I know I won't be able to cleanly follow the pitch with out too much ease I always have my belayer fixe the rope the spare them the misery.
Just my 2 cents.
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:tup: Jake and I will be out at Smith/Camp Sherman this weekend if you get bored!
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heres a pic of recent conditions Bryan. I just got back, had to turn around do to visability. But I got a pic of the spider!
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Sorry, no first ascents left in Oregon.
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Just got back from ripping it up at Anthony Lakes with these Salopettes... my verdict is that they rock!!! I was shredding pow and touring it up in style and comfort. They breathe and vent great when the skins come on, having the loose waist is really helps ventilation and breathability. Then when your ready to go down hill throw on your jacket/shell and start trapping the heat again. Can't wait to send some sick WI7 pitches in them. Seriously tho I honsetly can't think of anything negative to say about them, and I don't even really like Bill that much either. So if you desire a great pair of softshell pants/bibs, I highly reccomend looking into the NWAlpine Salopette. These will be my go to from here on out, and I'm pretty damn gnar.
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Hey can you post any reccomendations on cheap kite set ups for someone looking to get into kite skiing? Or where to look, I know basically nothing, cept that I want to!
Thanks!
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Where/When did Kate Rutheford take a 100ft fall?I believe Kate took a 120-130 footer while soloing PO or South Seas back in 2005 or so.
Joseph was thinking of different Kate (not Rutheford) who took a 100footer when she fell soloing tribal rite when a bunch of machine heads, wire rivet hangers and screamers girth hitched to heads/wire rivet hangers broke. never trust a machine head.
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that aid fall was staged...
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moira leading the best pitch on the route, imho.
YA MARKD!!! wilbur and i rocked that shit just last week, get the hell back home!!!
[TR] Penis Lunch Wall - The Christmas Tree Ascent 3/26/2011
in Oregon Cascades
Posted
Enchanted is a nice way of saying chisled or enhanced.
And I had to change the name I got sick of seeing penis all the time.Sorry but Bauman would be ashamed at the mockery.