corvallisclimb
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Posts posted by corvallisclimb
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Ground up or go home!
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Opal is not really a "sport" climbing destination. And the wall is in fact in the Opal Creek Wilderness. Not to mention it would be a MAJOR pain in the ass to try and go top down there. There are some other walls in the area that may yeild some more quality sport climbing in a non wilderness area.
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Are you adding bolts to the Salem Boulders?
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I would be quite upset if due to the actions of one negligent climber injuring a hiker, a hiker decided to remove/chop bolts and anchors at Smith.
One person didn't decide to chop the bolts. The community has spoken, the bolts are gone.
Perhaps instead of beating a dead horse on an issue that was really up to the Smith locals to decide, we should be discussing what we as a climbing community can do to help our sister climber who was injured.
I was climbing at Smith yesterday and the "community" was not happy about the bolt chopping. And as for the "locals to decide," I am a local, and every other local I have talked to has not been in favor of the bolts being chopped. These facts lead me, as I have stated before, to the belief that this was not a consensual decision representative of the general population here at Smith, but a select few.
While your getting all psyched out about Ian chopping those bolts, remeber someone is still in the hospital. I'd love to hear their opinion first. Everyone needs to fucking relax, if you care so much go put em back in, no one is stopping you. I talked to Ian on the phone before he did it, and said I didn't give a shit one way or the other. I guess he didn't have a chance to call, all the "locals". The bolts where poorly placed anyways, with one of the hangers upside down, just prying the bolt out. Joel did not know what he was doing when he put those bolts in unfortunatly. Spraying about how much you care about some silly swing bolts online is not really being proactive, you want to make a statement, go right back up and put em in. But these online shit storms do nothing. Every one bitching is being pretty fucking selfish in my opinion, since none of us are laying in the hospital missing half our teeth. If that was you, or your wife or something, I feel like a lot of people might have different opinions. As Joseph has said climbing gear is not for jumping if you want to jump go do it somewhere safely. Theres a few routes I've wanted to try at Smith, but havent because I feel they are too dangerous to attempt with hikers on the trail all day long, so be it, I won't do em, just like I won't do the swing. I'm not really trying to advocate one way or the other. I'm meerly pointing out that many of you have not noted how someone life is not going to be the same, while we all go about our busieness bitching about bolts online. Have a nice day!
PS: Hope that Liz can get better and get back to a normal life as soon as possible!
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stuff like this...
n other such piles of crap
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Sweet, thanks Jamie!
Keep em comin guys, I need A LOT!!
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I need as many Spectre's as possible. If you know me it would be awesome to borrow, I'll gladly pay all shipping costs buy beers n stuff what ever. Also willing to buy if the price is right. Thanks!
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Just realize that there is someone still laying in a hospital bed as a result of this, whos life may likely never be the same. Think about it.
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BUMP FOR THE SUMMER TIME... THE SEASON IS HERE!!!!!
Kiwi hardman Steve Elder riding the tip of the Horse Cock 7-15-2011
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Today I removed the bolts at the top of the swing. I removed the two bolts Joel placed and there were two older stud bolts which I sheared off. I patched the holes with epoxy.
I have talked to several people about this, including Joel. Everyone thought removing the bolts was the best thing to do, including Joel.
why?
ETA - apparently you're a ranger at the park.. disregard.
Ya and he climbs with his pistol, so don't question the law!
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Classic! Bailing off El Cap from halfway up is about as hard as climbing the damn thing! Did you guys rap straight down Bermuda Dunes from Hollow Flake Ledge or did you swing back over and reverse the that bit of traversing?
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The bolts used for the swing will be removed tomorrow.
Is that item on your agenda? good on ya if so.
No, due to some ongoing health issues I am not really climbing much unless its for $$$$
. But due to the concensus of a couple of "us" some freinds are up there right now taking care of businiess. Bill I gotta say comparing the Alcove swing to the Monkey swing is almost like trying to compare apples to oranges, not a lot of inocent climbers topping out on Simulkrime or whatever and getting swept off their feet by careless monkeys. I feel this case here almost borders the line of criminal neglegence, thought I don't think this is going cause any implication of restrictions through out the park, I do belive we as climbers need to police are selves to a point. I strongly feel often times also as climbers push the "freedom" we have a little too far. We all make mistakes here and there, but this is a big one, and thats what needs to be recognized. -
As far as we understand, the swing was set up by someone who had only "seen" it set up before. The injured climbers had rapped to the ground, and most likely already had pulled their ropes when the swinger swung and somehow knocked the climbers off balance with the swingers rappel line. These are the details were still trying to figure out. They both fell, the woman falling to the base of Sheer Trickery. I guess she knocked quite a few of her teeth out, and was rather bloody. She was imediatly doped up when the paramedics arrived for transportation and was in critical condition after being boated accross the river to where she was then airlifted to the hospital, where she is expected to remain for at least a week. The bolts used for the swing will be removed tomorrow.
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I know this is totally a long shot, but if Fixe really is going to start making Aliens again then well, who knows! So if someone wants to sell a gold Alien, I want to buy it. Thanks!
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hey jon
i brought my bulldog to these guys a few years ago and they cleaned and service it for around $25. they are worth checking out.
Tool Pros
10334 Lake City Way NE
Seattle, WA 98125
206.525.6448
Is that not over by Best Freinds Espresso? No wonder you reccomend
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Solid TR Kirk, well done!
:tup:
:toad:
Oregon Pinnacles
in Oregon Cascades
Posted
and the Horse Cock from above looks a little smaller...