wimsey

BTW, it is exactly 10 years since the Wenger Bros ventured out there with JR, picked the plumb Space Between and set all this in motion. Good times.

Gold Rush has a split letter grade now?!

beautiful

and climbed a few peaks along the way: http://www.ktvz.com/news/29211913/detail.html

A friend said there is still a lot of snow on the traverse but it was passable high in the moat, without crampons or axe. Said something about a short 20ft section that was belayed. Good luck and let me know what you find. -Brett

Don't know about the Park, but I went up the West Rib Tuesday and things were melted out up to about 7000 feet. Patchy snow between 6500-7500 and very nice continuous snow above 8000. Summit pinnacle is still about 50% rime on the west aspect. No mosquitoes. Went swimming in Pamelia lake and the water temp was pleasant. have fun -Brett

I went up to retrieve the ice axe and crampons I left up on the North Ridge of South Sister, unfortunately they were not there anymore. If you found them, I'd be happy to reward you for their return. many thanks, Brett

Very impressive effort and great time given the technical conditions require carrying so much gear. Anyone in the Bend area have one of those whippet things I could borrow?

I think you are talking about the NW ridge. There is no NE ridge to the summit.

There is 100+ inches of snow on top of that glacier now.

C'mon, this is the most entertaining thread ever! ROFLMAO

I climbed "Gold Rush" about 1 week after the FA. If you think the rock is rough now, you should have seen it then. Lined with razor crystals. Have not been on it since 2005 but I bet it is buttery now in comparison. I found most of the thin hands easier without tape, but then again you only get a couple of good efforts before you are done for the day. O'course that was true with tape too. "Stout Creek!"

Thanks, everyone. That helps.

I'm wondering if someone could give me an idea how long it would take to climb Jefferson, car to car(by whatever quickest route.) Perhaps if you have experience with the Three Sisters, you could frame it relative to climbing those. It appears Jefferson is less vertical feet and less total mileage than a Three Sisters traverse, but from reading trip reports and guidebooks, a fast car to car day would be quite challenging. Perhaps taking longer than a Three Sisters Marathon? Anybody know? Also, does Jefferson typically have a late season window where it is possible to summit in tennies, like North Sister? Or is it always necessary to have snow/ice gear to get from the red saddle across to the summit pitch? What month would likely have the best conditions for a fast summit run? thanks

perhaps they climbed a sport route up to the bench at the top of super slab and tried to rap with one rope well if they were sport climbers shouldn't they have lower themselves the bolted climbs left of super slab are ~300 ft long. I actually have no idea what route they climbed or descended. Just seemed like a possible scenario.

yes, people have gotten into and out of these jams for decades, before cell phones. makes you smarter, or makes you find a new sport.

perhaps they climbed a sport route up to the bench at the top of super slab and tried to rap with one rope

You don't need a 70m. I used to do it that way back in the 50m days.

Well, baring a miraculous turnaround in the weather for the next 3 weeks, the Three Sisters Marathon season window never opened this year. As of late last week, the "Terrible Traverse" was still under snowfield and impassible without axe and crampons. ( If you managed a traverse this year regardless, carrying your tools all 18 miles; major props. ) Looking to burn off some pent up frustration on an alternative challenge, I gave this a try: Deschutes River at the Old Mill in Bend -> South Sister summit -> back to Bend. 52 miles cycling and 11 miles jogging, almost 8900 feet total elevation gain. I'm curious to hear form others who have done this. Drop me a note if you have or are interested. And hopefully we will have better luck next year with the traverse. -Brett

nice job.

Middle is significantly snow covered on the north slope, from Prouty to the summit. (As of August 10th) have fun

Anyone been on North in the last week? From a distance, the standard route looks clear except for a patch of snow on the traverse. Any close up observations? thanks

We jogged it Friday, running shoes, no problem.

hilarious! thanks

thanks for the nice pictures