KaskadskyjKozak

I can appreciate your experience a bit, despite not having tried the Perry Creek approach. I attempted the Silver Creek approach last year and turned around at the headwall, thwarted. In addition to the green hell/schwack we had the pleasure of many hornet stings as our trip was in early September when the queen dies and they become much more aggressive and territorial. Way to persevere and HTFU for a spectacular experience. TFPU!

Just 10 Smoots to go!

Trip: Mox Peaks - NW Peak (Easy Mox) - NE Ridge Trip Date: 07/24/2021 Team: @Stefan B @KaskadskyjKozak Trip Report: It's been a long journey tackling the Bulger list. And what a way to end it - with a long journey! A long fucking journey! In 2019 I was committed to slaying the beast, tackling 14 of 16 remaining Bulgers only to get blocked in late August in the Chilliwacks when we cut the trip a day - and a Mox - short due to an injury. Oh, well, that just left me with just two peaks to clean up in 2020 - Buckner and Easy Mox. Easy enough. Then there was COVID. As the border closure continued into June 2020, I began researching approaches from the US side for Easy Mox. No option seemed appealing, but two stood out as viable options: a high traverse via Whatcom or approaching via Silver Creek. I procrastinated, hoping the border would reopen, then finally tried each - and failed - in late summer. I utterly underestimated what these approaches would take, and despite being in great shape by that time of year, fell short. Oh well, I could just do the standard approach in July 2021, right? When it was obvious the border would not reopen in July, I began planning again. I coaxed and wheedled friends to try to join me for weeks - after all, who wouldn't jump on such an opportunity, especially to take multiple days off of work for a death march? The amazing weather we have seen in July held and held and held. The stars aligned on climbing partners. I pulled the trigger. There were three of us: my son, Jorge, and me. Applying lessons from my failed attempt in August 2020, I split this trip into a 5.5 day itinerary, which went as follows: Day 1: Evening hike to camp at Hannegan Pass. Not much to say here except we arrived later due to traffic and started up at 8 pm. So glad I built in buffer to my itinerary! Day 2: Got up early-ish and hiked trails to Whatcom Pass, then took by-trail towards Middle Lakes, camping by a small tarn with awesome views of Challenger and Whatcom. The tarn was warm and we even got to clean up before dinner. (7:15am - 5:15pm). Day 3: Got up early and did the high traverse, camping on slabs above Bear Lake, SW of the saddle extending below the SW-trending ridge extending from the SE peak of Redoubt (6 am to 7:30 pm). We had a small pool with running water *at* camp. The high traverse was inspired by a TR from a few years ago. In summary, we summitted Taps mountain, then traversed ridges NE-ly to the lake below Cave Mountain (Pass Lake?). We then traversed NW towards Bear, then NE towards Redoubt. Our biggest time sink on this day was due to bush-whacking through hideous, thick trees on steep slopes getting to the upper basin above the Pass Creek drainage. We took 3 hours in this section. Day 4: Long fucking day (6 am to midnight). This involved traversing to the ridge on the Depot-Redoubt Divide, traversing the Redoubt glacier, climbing the route, then doing it all in reverse. Some detail on our long climbing day: We ascended the SW ridge of the SE peak of Redoubt until about 7200', then downclimbed about 100-200' to talus and traversed to the first point we could cross on the E ridge of the SE Peak of Redoubt, roped up, then walked the glacier over to a fine snow ramp leading towards the low point on the NE ridge of Easy Mox. I led a full 60m pitch up the slabs above the snow ramp, only to be stopped about 30 feet short of scramble terrain, and then led a very short second pitch to the top rap anchor. We then scrambled the ridge. Holy shit, what an amazingly exposed, improbable ridge! We found the gully off the ridge easily and scouted out the final pitch and settled on two options. I tried the easier one (we had a picture from an online TR that made it look like the right start) but it dead-ended on the ridge so I downclimbed. Jorge then led the other option (which was correct) and set up a belay at the bottom rap sling. We then solo'd the final 25 feet or so (up to the higher rap anchor). We did two rappels, downclimbed the ridge, then did two more rappels. We were super careful to not get any ropes stuck on our pulls! It was now around 8 pm. We roped up and crossed the glacier which was very soft after a full-day of sun exposure. We essentially retraced our boot path, but punched through opening crevasses twice (on the eastern lobe of the glacier). As we rounded the rock spur to get to the W part of the glacier, the sun set and we unroped by headlamp. We then miraculously scrambled boulders, talus, and scree back to camp with minimal issues. Day 5: Slept in (8 am) and did the traverse back to our camp from Day 2. We got a late start due to the previous long day. It was hot and sunny - the hottest day so far, and we were grateful for lingering snow patches and fresh running water in many places. We followed a much better contour from the upper Pass Creek drainage back to the NE ridge of Peak 6874 which took us less than half the time to do. Bugs were bad at camp - noticeably the worst of the trip so far. (10 am to 8:30 pm) Day 6: Got up early and did the full 17.5+ mi hike out to Hannegan Pass. Bugs were hideous in the final few miles to Hannegan Pass. (6:30 am to 6:30 pm). Bulgers done. 100/100. Now for the pics! View of high traverse from the summit of Taps Mountain. Redoubt looks *far* from here: Views South from Taps Mountain. We were surrounded by these amazing views above treeline continuously for four days: Looking back at the first part of the high traverse from near and below Peak 6874 Indian Creek Drainage from the traverse. Bear Mountain on left: Traversing the lake above Pass Creek and below Cave Mountain. I believe it is called Pass Lake: Nearing the end of our traverse and camp. Redoubt is finally close! Summit Day taken just above our camp. The Moxes still look far. We had a lot of talus to traverse just to get to the glacier! Finally on the Redoubt Glacier! Looking down P1: Hard Mox as viewed along the N ridge of Easy Mox. The exposure and views are unbelievable! Summit views from Mox back towards our traverse: Spickard, Custer, Rahm. Been there, done those: Shuksan, Baker. Ruth looks far! TBH, I was not looking forward to the long walk back to Hannegan when I took this pic: Jorge on the summit: My son and I on the summit. KK rappelling. This, along with one I have from Storm King are my two favorite rap photos ever! Redoubt as the sun got lower in the sky and we downclimbed. The sidewalk in the sky: Longer view up the NE ridge: At camp on day 5, getting ready to traverse back to Middle Lakes: Looking down the Indian Creek drainage. Taken on the traverse back to Middle Lakes: Taken from a point about 6400' - the high point on the NE ridge of Peak 6874 that we climbed after the traverse above the Pass Creek drainage (right of frame, mostly out of view, blocked by the ridge): East Lakes as viewed on the traverse, near Taps Mountain: Descending to upper Middle Lake: Gear Notes: 60m rope, mid-sized rack, helmets, glacier climbing gear Approach Notes: Long, brutal, epic.

I generally see deer on roads or near established camp sites (deer know there is pee to lick up there). Sometimes I see them off fairly popular trails (like cascade pass trail).

This is awesome! My son's first "interesting" alpine summit (and Bulger) was Cashmere. He was 10 at the time and didn't look much different than you and your brother Great to start the kids early - sure wish I had the opportunity myself growing up

We are entering a weekend with a heat wave and 17K freezing level. That's about the highest I've ever seen in our area (usually 14-15.5K is the high for freezing level in a warm stretch in WA state)

I don't do well in high temps. I may be sitting out this weekend myself. Good luck in whatever you do (if you go)

thanks! Yeah, I hear you on stream crossings - they'll be really raging this coming weekend

do you happen to have a picture you can share of the slope up to Flypaper Pass now (with the rock bands)? You've piqued my curiosity on how much has melted out.

Cool trip and beta! Where did the snow level start in earnest up there? The last update I saw on the NP website says "4000'" (from a week ago). Of course we have a heat wave this week, which could melt a lot of snow, but still would love to hear where you encountered consistent snow pack.

Yeah, it's an awesome place. I will go back for sure.

tea bag? Well, one old dude did go skinny dipping in the lake

Trip: Mount Deception - Standard Trip Date: 06/20/2021 Trip Report: We were back in the Olympics this weekend - this time for a three day trip up to the Royal Lake area. Our three-person team included my son to help me celebrate Father's Day in the place where I like to be the most - in the mountains. Kudos to him for mustering the energy after a mid-week trip to the Gardners with friend and a one-day rest in-between (ah, to be 19!!). Not much to say about the approach - we took about four hours with a 30 min lunch break and arrived at 2. We had read some recent TRs warning about shin deep puddles and several feet of snow about 4500', but that has melted. The trail was almost snow free to the lake and most campsites were dry (two had some snow or a puddle in the platforms). Sunday was our big day. We headed up at 5:20 am, went to the upper basin, then picked a line up to the Deception-Martin saddle. We mostly stayed on snow, and the upper rock bands - that are reported in some sources as very loose and dangerous class 3 - were almost all under snow. The top consisted of 400 feet or so of snow (45 degree slopes, sustained, +/- 5 degrees in places). From the saddle we dropped down and left to the glacier, and traversed under Gilhooley tower, (the 'bypass' route). We climbed to the ridge on the far side of Gilhooley and took the trail to the summit (mostly snow-free until the very top hundred feet or so). Total time up was about 5:20. Looking up the Deception-Martin saddle: Steep snow just below the Deception-Martin saddle: On the ridge near Gilhooley Tower: Happy Father's Day to me (summit of Deception): My son on the summit of Deception: After enjoying the summit we retraced our steps until we hit ~6100' . We then contoured above the upper Royal Basin to pick up Surprise Basin, and then ascended to the saddle at its top. We were encouraged by the ledges - snow free - and headed up. Unfortunately just before the final 100' or so, we hit a snow patch with very poor runout. With it being late in the day (5:30) and the snow soft, we were not comfortable soloing this terrain, so we called it a day and headed back to camp (8:15). We spent another night at camp and hiked out in the morning. Upper Slopes of Surprise Basin: The start of the ledges on Clark: A short downclimb while traversing ledges around Clark: The last bit - steep snow with poor run-out to cliffs: Morning Reflection before we hiked out from Royal Lake on Monday: Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, helmet. Approach Notes: 99% snow-free to Royal Lake. Mostly snow-covered beyond.

Four groups: parties of 2, 3, 4, and 4 (we were the 3)

Oh I thought this was about the peak west of Baker in WA....

my guess is it's in prime shape right now - including the N face. go get it and let us all know how it went!

On my second ascent of Whitehorse, I took the glacier route. We solo'd the ramp up and down. One of my partners, downclimbed part way, then decided to glissade. His slide immediately turned into a human starfish/pinwheel. I thought for sure we would be calling a helicopter. Somehow he stopped, got up, grinned, said he was ok, and continued down on foot.

I'm glad you didn't say Primus

we share carrying group gear, but I definitely "round up" for his share

Trip: Whitehorse - Lone Tree Pass Trip Date: 05/22/2021 Trip Report: I first climbed Whitehorse early on as I began climbing. I thought it would be a great way to introduce my son to steeper terrain with the short ramp on the top, and it's always a good conditioner as a day trip. Last year we attempted the route in early May, and ended up having the mountain to ourselves midweek. The downside is we broke trail the entire day, and I turned us around 10 feet from the summit, unable to pull the lip safely with my light 10-pt crampons and ice axe. The summit block was snow covered (a combination of graupel and sugar snow over some ice). That was disheartening and discouraging to say the least. When we got to the car I said "I'm not going back there". But time heals all wounds, and we made a return trip - a very different return trip. Firstly, the crowds. Holy fuck. We arrived to car camp the night before to a full parking area at 10:30 Friday night. Fortunately we found a spot in a wide spot in the road just outside the "lot". Then we were awoken at 2:30 am by people getting up and cars pulling in, including one young woman that hit a parked car across from us (great way to start a trip :P). Our alarms were set for 5 am, so once the crowds finished setting out by 3:30 or 4, we got a few more zzzs. We headed up at 5:40 am. Not much to say about the approach and climb. Snow was melting near the usual spot you turn off to ascend snow - I'd say 250' from the bottom to avoid the brush poking out (3250' elevation). From there it was continuous to the summit block. We took 6:50 from cars to High Pass, which I consider descent for my old, broken body. And I didn't feel bad, either. But... we were following a pounded-in boot path from that 2:30 am crowd which made for easy going. By the time we got to High Pass the crowds were all descending or off the summit block, except for one team of three who had started at 4am that we caught up to. So, we ended up just waiting a bit behind them. Everyone was soloing the snow ramp, and so did we. It's steepest was 55-60 degrees or so - steeper than I remember. I had brought 12 point grivels this time AND a 2nd tool. I wasn't about to turn around at the summit this time, but neither were necessary. We rappelled from the exposed anchor on the top. The hike out was pleasant, and we were alone the whole way down. Pics follow. First view of the objective on the approach. Note the wide boot path: Summit ramp. These pics never do make anything look steep - camera angle and all: Father and son on the summit, separately: I have summitted Whitehorse three times now. This is the first time I got summit views South! Stefan on rappel: Hiking out below Lone Tree Pass: Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, helmet. Approach Notes: Snow starting around 3250'

it's all part of a bigger plan - baby steps on steeper snow and more gentle, forgiving glaciers before we (dad and son) ramp up. I think we've mastered strenuous approaches (we actually tried getting into the Chillwacks last September via Silver Creek, and have done 40+ mile trips into the Pasayten)

When I climbed Jack, I exclaimed "once and done" when back at the cars. But after seeing this TR, I'm rethinking that.... TFPU!

For a second I thought he had created a cc.com account (he is Stefan too)

Ha! I climbed the standard on Jack in early September a few years ago and there was another party up there. The Nohokomeen though, yeah, I can see that is less likely to have company on a given day.

Trip: Anderson - Eel Glacier Trip Date: 05/30/2021 Trip Report: I've been wanting to climb Anderson for years, and finally had a chance this Memorial Day weekend. My son and I drove up separately from my friend Noel on Friday night, arriving after 10:30. There was already a number of cars parked at the end of the Dosewallips road and we parked my rig in the first dirtbag pullout (with a firepit) a few hundred feet away from the end of the road. We got up at 5 am, sorted gear, and headed up the old forest road on bikes all the way to the old ranger station. This was rather pleasant in the cool morning and we made fairly quick work of it (under two hours). We did a quick gear swap (padded shorts, gloves off) and stashed our bikes then headed up trail. The trail to Honeymoon meadows was in great shape and mostly dry until the last 1/4 mile or so. As the trail followed close to the river near Honeymoon meadows some lingering snow made for interesting going (don't fall!) but it was nothing difficult. We got an ice axe out for one short step. These patches were, however, enough to turn around a couple of parties of backpackers, who we presumed had permits for the Honeymoon Meadows area. The Honeymoon meadows camp is still under snow with just a few campsites discernible. We opted to continue on as our permits were for higher up. A fast party of two caught up to us here as we tried to find a stream crossing. We recognized one person from this party and exchanged some small talk. No logs spanning the stream suited us so we took off our boots and waded across, then continued on snow up to Siberia, then on to Anderson Pass. We made camp just above the pass. Views late in our approach: Views near camp: We got an early start and headed up to the knoll and the Anderson "glacier" beyond. The same fast party of two passed us here (they had camped at Siberia) and a party of 4 caught up as well. We were not too disappointed as they all proceeded to kick a glorious boot path up to Flypaper Pass, taking a directissimo route up (I believe the usual way is a snow finger on climber's left that is the only way up). The slope was sustained 40 degrees with a few 45 degree sections. My son on the knoll above the Anderson Glacier: Anderson looking real purty: Conga line below Flypaper Pass: From Flypaper Pass we traversed under cliff bands on the right, avoiding as much loss of elevation as possible (and still following the boot path set by others). We attained the ridge which was still snow covered and followed snow to the summit. Only a few summit rocks were melted out and the final 30 feet or so was a bit exposed with bad runout, so we took our time and care. My son on the summit: KK just below the summit with glorious spring views! From the time we got to the ridge to the summit weather started coming in - with misty drizzling, so we did not linger on the summit long. We retraced our steps to Flypaper Pass. Then weather started improving. A fourth party arrived at Flypaper Pass as we prepared to descend. That made 4 parties and 13 people total on a remote Olympic mountain early season. Is there anywhere you can go these days for solitude? Noel faced out and plunge-stepped most of the steep snow down. My son and I faced in and downclimbed which was slow and strenuous. But the footing was super solid. As the slopes moderated there was some sloppy postholing. The even flatter slopes were easy going. Views S from Flypaper Pass. That big, dirty slide was about all the recent slide activity we saw. The snow is nicely consolidated. After descending face-in: We then continued back to camp. It was early enough to get part-way out, so we broke camp, dropped to Honeymoon Meadows and dug a platform on snow to camp. A couple other parties were there but the camp was nowhere near full. We took a log crossing near camp to cross the stream (we had passed it on the approach two days earlier). On Sunday morning we slept in a bit and hiked back the 9 miles or so to our bikes, then had a glorious coasting down the 6 miles or so to the cars, where an ice cold Icicle Hazy IPA awaited me. Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, helmet Approach Notes: Snow starting just before honeymoon meadows.