KaskadskyjKozak

171

it's obvious your expertise comes from personal experience. It could turn you from a size "s" to an "l" tout de suite!

looks like sucking cock, or in english it's your specialty jizzburper. you are dumb redneck and you can't even come up with a clever insult duchebag. any conversation with a thick tool, like yourself is just a waste of my time. Cool, then make like a mime, and STFU

Trip: Rainier - Fuhrer Finger Date: 6/28/2008-6/29/2008 Trip Report: My friend CF and I have been talking about climbing the Fuhrer Finger for over a year and it just hasn't come together (scheduling and good weather). We figure this could be our last shot, even though the high-freezing level of 14K at night was not ideal. I brought in BundledUpSurfer and invited Fairweather to have a solid team of 4, and FW invited his bro and friend GW to give us a mountie-esque caravan of 6. We set off at about 9:30 on Sat. The heat was opprssive soon into the hike and sucked out a lot of energy. The lower Nisqually is completely filled-in, so we just walked across it unroped, and headed up the Fan. Also, FW told me I need to break some rules from the FOTH climbing code. Even at that hour we could see rockfall on the left and hurried up and out of the fall lines. We attained the ridge and followed it up to the Wapowety Cleaver, working slowly in the heat, with several rest breaks. The route soon came into view: Eventually around 9000 feet, with a direct traverse in sight for the Finger, we stopped and set up camp in some walled-off bivy sites. Note: going straight up the Nisqually then left will still work as well - very filled-in. Here's BundledUpSurfer preparing for the ascent. This dude is a climbing machine: one site had several blue bags stuck in the cracks. That's fucked up. People need to take their shit down the fucking mountain. Later I saw a blue-bag in a shallow crevasse. Assholes. Due to the relentless sun, we could not even lie down to rest until around six or seven. Most of us packed really light bivy sacks, or light shelters. It never fell below 50 degrees with light breezes at 9000 feet! Wake up time was 12:15 but we did not get going until 1:30. My head lamp did not work, but fortunately GW had a spare Tikka. We were all pretty tired still. GW was feeling a bit off even out of camp and I also had that familiar feeling of "I'm hungry and nauseaus at the same time". We traversed to the Finger and were surprised by the number of people we saw. We knew there were two other parties doing the route as of when we had registered, but several other parties were there, including one that must have come up late in the evening. It was a conga-line, reminiscent of the DC. I have never moved so slowly on a climb. It was agonizing. The snow was soft. Too soft. We didn't exit the Finger until maybe 4 am or so. But, on the good side we did not hear any rockfall in the Finger itself. I was pleasantly surprised. When we got to the Nisqually we hit our next challenge. It was a mess. Very broken up with no clear path through (later we saw two skiiers who somehow had made it through - but they were the only ones). So we looked left. Not good either. One party was discussing going up a rock band. There were also a couple sketchy snow bridges which didn't seem to attain the steep slope high enough to make it a go. Then I saw a guy - well heard him, begin to puke his guts out. That didn't help my stomach much. Finally we opted to try a snow bridge. CF set a picket over the bridge climbed up about 30 feet, set another, and then climbed to some rocks. I followed. It was 50-55 degree snow. But harder than the finger and reasonable to get up. Rest break. And blue bag break. Great, we would be carrying those in the heat all day. We continued up the side of the Wilson Headwall, above gaping crevasses on the Nisqually. Beautiful. But the climbing was exausting and very very slow. There were less people now. Maybe half as many - several parties had evidently turned around. We took frequent breaks - every few hundred feet. I was burning out and not feeling better. When we finally made it to the top of the Wilson Headwall, where it meets the Kautz route, my altimeter said 12600 feet (and so did everyone's). I was feeling worse over the last 600-800 feet - definitely AMS. I had a bad experience with pushing on with AMS about 4 years ago, and decided I couldn't make it another 1800 feet especially at the pace we were going (500 feet an hour). This was around 8:30 - the entire route is only supposed to take 5-7 hours. Well, it turns out that we were actually at around 13300 feet, so our altimeters were all off. 13.3K would have been a harder call to make to stop in hindsight. The remaining 5 pushed on and summitted at around 10 am - 8.5 hours into the climb. Here's part of the team as they headed up: It was getting colder and windy, but not horrible. It was colder than I expected. They got back to me at around 11:15. Originally we had planned to descend the Finger but the conditions were not good for that, so we opted for the Kautz. It's worth noting here that the views were pretty sucky - very hazy with poor visibility. The night before we had had perfect, clear views at camp. The descent was very fast and pleasant until somewhere in the middle of the second step, when we came to some ice. A party of three was rappelling off an ice bollard. We decided to follow them, but damn it took a long time. We considered downclimbing but had only two ice screws between the two teams and were not feeling up to it. When the first party cleared out, we set an anchor with a screw for clipping in and rappelled down one by one on a single 37m rope. BUS went last - he tied the two ropes together and did a double rope rap. He ended up with some booty - a locking belay biner. By this time the webbing was cut maybe 20% into that bollard... Here's a view up from below the higher step: Below that rap there was enough snow over the ice to just downclimb it, which we all did unroped. Then it flattened out and we hit the first step, which was melted out at the bottom for maybe 80-100 feet. But it was solid, low angle stuff with big steps, so we just downclimbed it carefully. Looking back at the Kautz ice chute: The scramble up to the Turtle was up about 50 feet of rotten rock, but there was a fixed line in placed with knots for handholds. Some glissading was to be had on the Turtle, but the troughs had some ice parts and constrictions and hurt. The melted out parts sucked. We got to camp, packed up and headed out at 4 pm. The hike out involved some nasty snow patches where you could slip on ice, some nasty rotten rock, and long stretches of hikable snow with some good glissading. The glissade down the Fan was particularly enjoyable. We again crossed the lower Nisqually unroped, and hiked up that last painful hill to Glacier Vista before arriving at our cars at around 6:20. 19 hours camp to summit to trailhead. Burgers in Elbe. 1/2 pounder, please... Gear Notes: Crampons, ice axe, helmet, 1 ice screw, 2 pickets Approach Notes: Soft snow, oppressive heat, brutal.

Are you 12? Well, close, you may be confused here. "No 13" is 12 years old. Kevbone's intelligence quotient is 12. 12 is also the number of functioning synapses in his cerebral cortex.

Because this is an interracial dry hump and thats 2 white guys touching each other? .........not that there's anything wrong with it.... in both cases, there are two guys touching eachother. just saying.

Actually, you're in a whole class by yourself. One in a million. Well, maybe one in a hundred million. Three standard deviations below the mean. You get the picture. Well, probably not.

Kevbone: this is your brain on drugs.

Yes, I suspect it is innate for you. boner is full of hilarious malapropisms

boner: hey, you never got back to us on which drug is better - cocaine or heroin?

That's as close as we'll get to agreeing. Refresh my memory, did Bush pay off McCain's campaign debt (no strings attached of course).

Not really, when you consider that this year's DNC primary paled in comparison to the gutter politics Shrub & Rove employed against McCain in 2000, particularly in South Carolina. talk about partisan glasses! Good point. My "partisan glasses" obviously made me overlook the allegations of fathering illegimiate children with prostitutes, drug addicted spouses, gay-baiting, etc. that happended during the DNC primary this year. the two D camps hate each other's guts have had said some real bad shit, but hey, if your memory is that short (cough Geraldine Ferraro... Gov. Rendell...cough)

shit for brains shut up I see this topic is really disturbing you Hugh. poor baby.

Nope, not on a classic alpine route of this nature that gets this much traffic. exactly. don't climb it if you need a bolt there.

Not really, when you consider that this year's DNC primary paled in comparison to the gutter politics Shrub & Rove employed against McCain in 2000, particularly in South Carolina. talk about partisan glasses!

it's big news, Hugh. party of the big D love-in rally

gee, that's a hostile response. must be a sore spot for you.

The lefties love posting that one with McCain and Bush. This one is just as laughable.

pearls before swine...

yeah, right.

If I am worried about a climb (usually the night before or when resting before an alpine start) I envision myself confidently ascending each part of the route without problems. I put as much detail in as I can... "at sunrise, I'll be topping the ridge", etc. This tends to settle me down.

thread deja vu... some people "learn" differently.

that's a pretty arrogant and patronizing comment.

tradguy can lick sack

look, time and time again we hear this bullshit about the "dummies" who voted "for" Bush, and the refusal to accept the idea that people often vote "against" not "for" a candidate. Just adding another perspective to the topic. I've got a trip to pack for. Hasta.