KaskadskyjKozak

so true

So go grid-bolt Index Mr "fucking" sound-bite What a joke. The "sound bites" I hear on this topic come from the broken record anti-bolt nazis.

If I clip a fixed piton or stuck piece of pro, is that sport climbing? What if I use chains for a belay anchor or to rap down a route (e.g. Beckey/Liberty Bell)? Does that make me a "sporto"? Is it unethical? Never mind, I don't give a flying fuck.

When did you start up? If you did sub 6 hours, yeah, pretty damn impressive.

Then start one. Raindawg's thread is not a discussion.

We saw them descending. Yes, 2 teams of 6 per rope. That's not a big deal since you can walk around rope teams. They are only slowing themselves down. A group of 12 in a bottleneck like the S face gully sucks for other parties.

The post was not about "discussion" just a flame, and nothing was proposed by the thread's originating author.

This thread is a troll - look at the first post. It was meant to start shit, and doesn't really belong in this forum to begin with.

I've been up Sahale twice. I'd love to make a run up the NE ridge of Black sometime.

You're an equivocating dumbshit w/o the requisite cognitive ability to make distinctions of position in those with who you disagree. You parsing anything would be akin to a monkey mixing alphabet wood blocks with his latest steaming pile. WOW! Someone got out the Roget's! Care to find out the statute for me? Or would you rather just masturbate on your thesaurus? Coming up next on "When Faux-Libertarians Can't Figure Out Who is Talking to Whom":... WTF? Hey, Kevbone got a hold of Alkyteke's password!

I've heard the rockfall on Mixup is atrocious. I can personally attest to that. While waiting on a ledge I took a fist sized rock on my right quad that broke the material on my pants and skin. Big frickin' welt too. But he must like it; he listed it twice! It was high on my tick list until I heard several similar stories. If I bag it it will be as a team of 2 that moves well on loose shit. :-)

so, how did Stuart go?

I've heard the rockfall on Mixup is atrocious.

hey, another potential ass-rapist on a forced bivy. you should climb with pink - Kbone says he likes that ;-)

How is route-finding on that one? Straightforward enough? Yes, very straight foward. Jump on the ridge at the low spot near the toe and go up. We found the hardest climbing at 5.6 to be very low down when bypassing a gendarme/tower feature. For its grade it is one of the best alpine tours in the range IMHO. perfectly doable in August? I am getting tempted here... :-)

I figured Kevbone's accumulated inanity created a singularity which sucked the server into a time-space vortex from which not even light could escape. I guess he needs to add a few more posts before that will happen.

How is route-finding on that one? Straightforward enough?

OK, you get extra "cred" for the balaclava's and stern looks. :-)

It's just a Sony Cyber-shot (8.1 megapixel). Not too expensive and a few years old.

What's a few hundred billion here or there? I'm sure Micro$oft would be eager to do the "job".

Yesterday, after descending the gully on Shuksan, we met a family of four on their way up: father, mother, and two kids (son, daughter, ages 11, and 13, I believe). They had come up the Fisher Chimneys route to boot. WAY COOL.

At least you are seeing the light at the end of the tunnel with the house, Brian. Best wishes!

Paying all those IT folks for their fancy, buggy software would be so cheap too. A no-brainer!

Trip: Shuksan - Sulphide Glacier Date: 7/26/2009 Trip Report: There's been plenty of TRs for this route, so I'll give a conditions report, some mountain pron, and comment on our experience with the thunderstorm "showers". The route is in great shape right now. Only a few crevasses are opening up and they are easily avoided. This is one of the most mellow and benign glaciers I've been on. We had t-storms in our forecast - 30% chance of "showers" after 11 am on Sat and before 11 pm Sun. We got a fairly early start on Sat and got to camp at around 12:30. We pitched our tent and bivies and enjoyed the sun while it lasted. At around 5 or so clouds were rolling in so I decided to make dinner while I could. The drizzle turned to full-on rain, followed by 35 mph gusts of wind, horizontal, pea-sized hail, and a complete whiteout. My water was only luke-warm, my stove blew out and I was soaked. Fortunately the rain stopped long enough for me to scarf up my luke-warm Mountain House, and the wind acted like a giant cold-air restroom hand-dryer, blowing my shell jacket and pants completely dry. Seeing the next "round" on its way in the sky, I snapped a few photos and went to bed at 6:30. My partners had already long-since sequestered themselves in their shelters, sacrificing a hot-dinner, but peeking out to snap photos here and there. The rain came and went a couple of times that night. And we were socked in at 2 am. Fortunately by 3:30 am it was clear out and we slowly got up and were roped up and ready to go at 5:30. The weather from then on out was PERFECT. One other item of note - there was almost NO summit gully clusterf****! We arrived at 7:30 and the first wave of summitters were leaving. We went up, had the summit almost to ourselves, then left just in time for the next group. We had heard that the previous day (Sat morning) there had been a 24-person back-up at the pyramid, including a 12 person (WTF???) party. Angry skies after the first squall: A different story at dawn: The last snow patches at the pyramid: The Sulphide: Summit Pron: Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, helmet for gully. Approach Notes: Snow free until 5400'. Spotty until 6100'. Bugs horrendous below snow-line.