KaskadskyjKozak

The first pitch was a bottleneck. I led the second rope team up, and there was a lot of waiting. The first leader had to break trail - cleaning off a lot of sugar snow (you should be grateful, it looked nasty). There were at least 2 lines possible on pitch 2, and even pitch 3. A party almost caught up to us on pitch 2 (the leader caught up as I was belaying my partner). But they never seemed to want to, or be able to pass - was that you? Looking down from pitch three I certainly couldn't see anyone in "danger" of catching up - see third photo above. In any case - this is a trade route. WTF do you expect? Get up earlier, or pick a different line. Hell, pick a different route. A "fast and light" group like you surely could have run up the East Face - nobody was there.

I haven't been up there this time of year. Some friends of mine mentioned that scramble is fairly exposed mixed terrain in April. Thanks for the info...

Excellent!

no pitons? (talking between now and early spring)

B.

we were the first team up and summited around 2:45 (cars at 6). There were 4-5 people on the route below us. There's almost no way they'd be home yet, so I would not stress for a couple hours.

we did a single rope rap and downclimbed soft 50 degree snow (the angle gradually gets easier)

bastard! you posted this as I was typing mine in! :-)))

Trip: Chair Peak - N Face Date: 2/20/2010 Trip Report: My partners mkporwit, CS, and SR met at the Eastgate P&R at the ungodly hour of 4 am to try and beat the crowds the surely must be descending on Chair Peak on a glorious Sat. We succeeded; we were the first team on the route. Unfortunately this plan backfired in that we had to deal with the sugar snow coating a lot of the ice. We had two rope teams. SR and I led pitch one. We got to the pitch by traversing right above a snow bridge crossing the moat. I am not sure if this is the "traditional" start of the pitch or not. We found the ice to be aerated and interspersed with loose stuff all day. Most ice screw and picket placements seemed suspect and anxiety levels were consequently high. Pitch 1: I used 4 ice screws. I set up a belay with 2 pickets and tool. Maybe 3/4 rope length. Pitch 2: My partner used 3 screws and a picket. We stayed middle right. Full rope length. Pitch 3: I girth hitched a couple trees, placed a green alien, and at least one screw. Belayed from a tree. Full rope length. Pitch 4: Just deep snow. Very short. I had pitons and nuts and never used them. Descent: downclimbed to equalized-piton-rappel station. Single rope rappel partially down gully. Downclimbed the rest (sugar snow). Approaching the moat: Upper half of pitch 3: View down from belay at top of pitch 3. Not climbers on route: If you stayed home today you are insane! Gear Notes: 4 pickets, 6 screws, green alien, double runners. Approach Notes: Icy in the morning, soft crud on the descent.

sprayers on top. kevboner below.

how short? i'm thinking of headed up there but only have a bunch of 16cm screws

how many screws did you need?

why is that? because you keep posting that photo of boner

will gold flakes help your shit not to stink?

It will never die. Just get that fact straight in your head now, and you will not worry so much in the future. BTW, take a looksie around a lift served ski area (Except for alta, or others that do not allow SB) and you might be shocked to realize that there actually are more people on snowboards than skis these days. unfortunately...

It would seem that you don't join the Spray forum much because you can't keep up, period. Unlike Tvash, many of us have jobs. And wit aside, we also often express political opinions that would not be looked on favorably by existing or potential employers. I've protected the identity of people I've vehemently disagreed with on this board because exposing them could mean a smackdown from their commanding officer. If Spray offers an (almost) consequence-free romper room for borderline psychotics, a sounding board for undigested opinions and ideas, or a place to pin up nasty pictures of Pamela Anderson without regard for your real life, job, family, googleprobe, then who cares? If maintaining privacy and people's freedom to speak their minds by protecting identities scares you, why don't you run back to the other DOZEN forums on this site where nobody gives a fuck?

I bet you do.

Lick sack.

Huh????? WTF happened? This came out of nowhere...

I am so jealous!

I ran up Eldorado first week of June last year and it was fine. I'd suspect a late May trip would be totally a go this year (as long was we don't have crazy record snowfall in the next 6-8 weeks)

Die, fatty!

this site has a moderator?

Anything fed to laboratory rats in significant quantities will cause cancer.