Trip: Ingalls, East Peak - SW Face
Date: 7/4/2011
Trip Report:
Yesterday we climbed the East Peak of Ingalls. This route is rarely done - we saw a handful of entries in the summit register for each of the last few years. It seems October is popular. We didn't have much beta but thought it would be a fun go for a relaxing, uncrowded 4th of July.
There is still a lot of snow on the approach, continuous from around the Longs Pass trail junction. Headlight basin is under a blanket of snow with little running water.
View of Ingalls Peaks from the approach:
We made a route-finding errror by following foot prints all the way to the top of snow on the approach gully to the notch. This appears to be the same mistake spotly made a couple years ago. We thrashed around here for a while burning some time but eventually got to the notch with chockstone.
DC at the top of the snow gully:
We climbed the chockstone and went up about 20 feet to a big belay spot and the first real pitch. It may be possible to just scramble to this spot from around the back (North) side of the notch, but there is so much snow there now that we didn't try that.
The climbing is very similar to the standard route (South Ridge) on Ingalls, North Peak. It's all about fun slabs with cracks for pro, taking mostly small cams.
View up the first pitch:
Upper Pitch:
You top out on an exposed chossy ridge that joins to the highest point a few feet up.
Dramatic scenery from the summit towards Ingalls North Peak:
There are four obvious rappel stations along the route - pick your poison for descent. We opted to downclimb to station #3, rappel to station #2, then #1, then double rope rappel partway done the snow gully.
Descending snow gully:
The deproach in the evening was very pleasant and cool. We saw one party descending from the North Peak from the summit and passed a couple campers both going in and out, but in general, we had the day all to ourselves.
Lake Ingalls still frozen over!
Evening light hits Stuart:
Gear Notes:
Lots of cams: C4 .5, .75, 1, and 3, Master cam #1 and 2.
Had a full set of nuts and used only one. Small tri-cams would work too.
Approach Notes:
Continuous snow starting from the Longs Pass trail junction.