treknclime

Again, if it's easy to do, timely, the anchors are available, and doesn't take much gear, IMHO you're better off taking the extra step.

thebrowze asked about 'redundant' anchors, and I responded with a way to obtain that goal. Using only the rope isn't a redundant approach to tying into an anchor. Not saying I don't use only the rope, but if there's a mistake with the hitch or the anchor fails, it's fatal. Using a sling or PAS in addition to the rope (on a separate anchor, if possible), builds in redundancy.

It seems to me that if it's easy to make a redundant and timely second clip to another independent anchor, it's worth the time. When preparing to rap from that point, test the anchor while clipped to both anchors if you can (to reduce extension/anchor stress if one anchor fails), then rap when you feel the anchor test passes. Otherwise, use the rope on a clove to the anchor in addition to a PAS, if you're continuing in a multi-pitch scenario. IMHO, that's how I'd handle things. What kind of a PAS are you using, and how is it rigged to your harness? In CBS's case, where he uses a single PAS to a double anchor...if the PAS fails, it doesn't matter if there's one or two anchors; there's no redundancy. I think as you suggest, two independent nylon (not spectra; with a mid-knot) slings is the way to go nowadays, IMHO.

Rarely will guides with any reputation moonlight anymore. They are easily recognizable by their gear and how they conduct themselves on the mountain with their clients. There is a lot at risk for a guide of any reputation who ventures into an area where they don’t have a permit. Whatever authentic guiding experience a self-proclaimed guide may have can be measured commensurate at a rate equal to whatever they may charge. Like the saying goes, ya often get what ya pay for. While you may not want to pay for a qualified/permitted guide, you know more or less what you’re getting ahead of time, and since you’re all newer climbers, you’ll learn a ton of valuable skills and helpful information. Check out http://www.timberlinemtguides.com/ for more information. Good luck and have fun…Hood is a great experience!

If I'm not mistaken...seems to me that getting everything wet, to lubricate things, will help. Helps to feed the cover a little bit, then pull the cover. Repeat. Should be able to get longer and longer cover sections fed as you do it, and you'll be done in a few minutes. I remember trying it dry, and I got sooo frustrated. Let me know if this doesn't work for ya.

Nice, Marek...I'll buy a couple like usual.

Pretty photos; very nice. Good effort and decision; hope you get a chance to return. tnc

Interesting objective. Hannah seemed to survive her solo climb, but then...she's climbed several different Rainier routes, in a variety of months. Most of her climbs up Rainier didn't have a trail leading to the top. Honestly...following the trail up Rainier in good weather (whatever the route) during the summer, whether it be 5 times or 20 times, doesn't match up anywhere to the skills needed for a solo winter ascent. Possible, yes, but certainly problematic, at best. The 'trails' in the winter often dead end, and lead to crevasses that have been skirted...or dealt with in a manner...that a snow trail will never fully divulge its secrets. You'll need to totally know how to deal with the route...such as sastrugi, mentioned above. Fail that test at any point, and it won't be a pleasant outcome. You may not even know you messed up...until coming down...when can get a better perspective on things. Getting caught uphill of some gapers isn't uncommon in the winter. The challenge...is usually a jump, a leap, or an end-run. Not so bad is one's roped up and the weather is good. Unexpected weather comes in fast on Rainier...especially during the winter. It can change in as little as 2-6 hours to the extreme. Imagine being up high with short notice with a weather change, moving slow from breaking trail, becoming a little dehydrated. Getting caught above Muir would be a nightmare for a small team...no less a solo climber (remember Hood). The wind yesterday/today at Muir has been averaging like 50-60+, and temps were below zero f. The weather can flip flop in a moment, and blow so hard, looking at a GPS and route finding around crevasses is only a figment of an imagination. It's challenge enough when everything is going well. There's some good advice here in the thread, for sure. The avi education, for one. The second best piece of advice...climb other mountains in the winter, with other people...then solo...and use that same approach on Rainier. You'll be better equipped skill and gear wise to make better choices when you plod off alone up 'the mountain.' Have you read the story of Delmar Fadden? Be sure to post some TR's from your climbs. Always nice to hear what's going on with the route conditions. Good luck wresting with your challenge.

Couldn't find anything about a correlation between caffine and nerve healing. Anyone know anything about that?

Good tips, everyone! Thanks!

Lots of rubble on the Nisqually...you'll need to walk the moraine to just about its highest point...then diagonal up...as if going up to the Wilson. There will likely be some things up in there to climb, but it may take some time and effort to get there. If it's foggy...be sure to take a compass bering...so you don't get lost is all the ups and downs in the rubble...and think about a GPS for the return, if the weather looks like it could be cloudy.

Too funny, Marcus!

Oh...a quick update to my post yesterday. No doubt there's lots of new snow on the mountain this weekend/week. The std route down poorly wanded...very difficult to get in good wands on the icy route (very poor wanding, especially from the Flats up...then down around the cleaver). Probably hard to find the route now, unless one is familier with the most recent crevasse work-arounds.

Not sure about Mowich...likely lots of ice, rockfall, and maybe hard to move super quick like when there's hard snow. Have done Ptarmigan in September, and it was full of dinner-plating ice...but doable. Quite nice. Did an up and over from Mowich to Paradise. Have been up the DC drop-down and around route a couple of times in the last two weeks...there's a good stretch of ice on it right now ...with several parties, including guides, belaying the route (up to 6 pitches; and lowering on the way down). Not many independent climbers on the route these days. Be sure to post a TR to let us know what you find. Could be an interesting and fun adventure.

It's my guess that the "Crater Glacier" on Mt. St. Helen's is one of the fastest growing glaciers around. Was non-existent after the eruption, and is now like 400 feet thick, and the arms that extend around the dome...have just about completely encircled it in a layer of ice. http://www.thenewstribune.com/news/local/story/93350.html As a postnote: There were a number of people involved in the naming of the new glacier, and most favored more native terms, versus descriptive ones, such as "Crater Glacier." My favorites were Loowit (as the natives once called St. Helens), or better yet, Austen Post and I favored the name, "cheechako," meaning "greenhorn." The problem with cheechako was...it used to also be used as a derogatory term, when one wanted to put down a new comer (usually associated with mining for gold, during the gold rush years in Alaska. I think, like Loowit, cheechako are from the Chinook family of languages). There used to be the "cheechako bar" in the Anchorage Airport. I didn't look for it when I was there last winter, so maybe it's still around? More trivia about cheechako...Robert Service used it in a title of one of his poems, Ballad of the cheechako," or something like that.

Awesome photos and TR, Ice-T! Well done and congrats, boys!

I'm thinking about doing S Sister in the next couple of days...anyone got current conditions? I imagine it's pretty dry now. Worth taking skis?

Nice TR/climb, gents! Thanks for sharing.

Thanks, AM. I'll have to give that a shot next time I'm down there. Schweet job!

So...did you go around to the R or L of the upper summit area to gain the summit ridge? I take it you took the L side of the bergshrund? I've looked at that face many times; spectacular! Nice work, guys!

Wow...impressive, guys! Well done!

Nice work, Ice Man! Lookin' forward to the show!

MVS...spectacular photos! Pls post more, if you have'em! Thanks for sharing! Looks like a cool route.

While the DC typcially only requires pickets for running belays and the occassional crevasse rescue...an ice screw can be handy. Have seen a couple of folks pitch off the icy slopes leading onto the rock at the bottom of the cleaver, and scews were the only anchor that'll worked there. There maybe other places that will only take screws, too, espeically in later season. I liked CBS' advice...take a lightweight one.

I've gone through a few pair of alum. 'poons, mostly because of totally bent points. They tend to bend on the way down if you're moving quick and agressive. Doesn't always happen, but if there's a lot of rock...IMHO...either take'em off, or wear steel ones.