treknclime

Munter raps = really twisted ropes, althought it's good to know for backup. Also not good to use if your rap ends in a rockfall area...

Let's get back to Greta's question...

Good effort! Always good to play it safe on FF...especially in winter/spring with new snow or when avi is present. At least 4 climbers have died in the Finger over the years due to avi issues.

Wish we had something like this in Washington. http://www.truckinginfo.com/news/news-detail.asp?news_id=53544

Agreed on both accounts. Sorry for the duplicate post.

RIP http://www.usatoday.com/tech/news/2005-01-04-obit-dickert_x.htm?csp=34

Nice photo.

Whatya think is gonna be "in" during the middle of Jan? Guess it really depends on what's happening with the weather. Thanks for keeping us up on the conditions!

http://nepalnews.com/

It was October and the Indians on a remote reservation asked their new Chief if the coming winter was going to be cold or mild. Since he was a Chief in a modern society he had never been taught the old secrets. When he looked at the sky he couldn't tell what the winter was going to be like. Nevertheless, to be on the safe side he told his tribe that the winter was indeed going to be cold and that the members of the village should collect firewood to be prepared. But being a practical leader, after several days he got an idea. He went to the phone booth, called the National Weather Service and asked, "Is the coming winter going to be cold?" "It looks like this winter is going to be quite cold," the meteorologist at the weather service responded. So the Chief went back to his people and told them to collect even more firewood in order to be prepared. A week later he called the National Weather Service again. "Does it still look like it is going to be a very cold winter?" "Yes," the man at National Weather Service again replied, "it's going to be a very cold winter." The Chief again went back to his people and ordered them to collect every scrap of firewood they could find. Two weeks later the Chief called the National Weather Service again. "Are you absolutely sure that the winter is going to be very cold?" "Absolutely," the man replied. "It's looking more and more like it is going to be one of the coldest winters ever." "How can you be so sure?" the Chief asked. The weatherman replied, "The Indians are collecting firewood like crazy."

Had it happen to me on a mild day in the summer once. My crampons were strapped too tight on my leathers. Took about 2-3 months to get back all the senstation in both feet. Weird.

A ground release isn't all that uncommon, and can happen at a variety of depths...and it's more common in the rockies (caused from cold clear nights)... or around here after rising snow levels and some rain. The snowpack is heated at the earth (or moisture is sublimated from colder airtemps above the snowpack), causing faceting...otherwise known as rotten snow--a weakness in bonding is created between the snow and ground. Something certainly to be careful around when you notice deep grainy snow with big crystals near the ground, rocks, trees, or other "heat sinks." That's my understand of things, anyhow.

I once was walking along the glacier up to the Trench (actually about 3 days away from it), and Paul dropped down out of the sky in his supercub, to say "hi" and to see how we were doing...even though we didn't fly with him. Was a pretty impressive experience. We did fly with a guy named Mike Ivers, who started Gulf Air. A sad deal...a few weeks after he picked us up, he flew into a peak on his way in to pick up some rafters. RIP.

Let us know what the conditions were like during your trip; hope you post a TR! Good luck!

There's some good guidebooks out there for them, which'll cover almost everything you need; try any of the Rob Rachowiecki books, published by Brandt. Rob's got a number of books out there, from trekking to climbing, and many editions have been published. The first three peaks are well documented and doable. Chimborazo can be icy, and the appoach to the glacier can be prone to ice/rockfall. Cotopaxi has avi danger after big dumps, right on the last big slope up to the rim. The last peak has access issues, since the approach crosses pvt land, and the owner is semi-cooperative. There's also a bergshrund that prevents a summit ascent some years. Cayambe can be the same with wide slots, but there always seems to be a work around (sometimes thin, but OK). Plan extra time to acclimate than you would think, and you'll enjoy the trip more. Be careful walking around Quito alone at night. Best to go out with someone. It's a great trip, and you'll have a good time.

Sounds like you're talking about "typical" boot bang (I think??). Maybe not though... I've worn a number of Koflachs, and most are OK for me. One time though, I got some boot bang from a pair...and hte pain lasted for a whole summer season. Ended up selling the boots. Not sure quite what caused it, and have occassionally gotten it since then, but it goes away with a little TLC. When I get it, I usually put in a foam pad, cut so that it straddles my ankle (and rounded at the top)...and it can be worn between two layers of socks. For extreme bang, I wrap the pad on with an ace bandage...which adds more padding. I started carrying one in my FA kit. Descents seem to agrevate the issue...especially in soft snow. The rear foot ends up getting left further behind (so to speak) when walking, which exagerates the bend...and the pressure on the shin. To further prevent the issue, I also wear two thick wool socks...and ice and ibu when necessary. Your sounds more like a blister problem though, but could be related. Good luck.

Good work, Iain! Gracias!

Anyone know of a place to deposit used alkalines and lithiums? For some reason I was under the impression...that if a place sold batteries...they had to provide a disposal means, too. Maybe Radio Shack? I've never felt too good about dropping them into the garbage...knowing they'd end up leaching out in the landfill.

They say lithium's don't get whacked by the cold until like -30/40 f/c...so cold and/or altitude isn't an issue. Great for lamps, players and digi's. Haven't tried the AAA's, but need to find a source. Sometimes it's hard to find the AA's...because they're behind the counter or all sold out. The lithium's are a popular item for mak'in crack. Lithium's are expensive...so the plain'ol Costco Duracell AA's are a budget way to go for most uses, but aren't good in the cold. I've also been using the rechargable's for longer trips...and use an small inexpensive solar charger to recharge along the way (buy at boat stores, like West Marine). I figure the more I can use rechargables...the more $$ I save, and less chemicals end up in the landfill.

There are a couple of ski shops in Gresham that you'll pass by on the way up to Govy. Not sure what time they close, but I've scored mine there. Don't know their names or addresses, but maybe someone else does...??

Roadcut...good idea, Ade. Time to keep an eye out for a place.

Sunday was windy at times, with some fog in and out. Wet up higher, with rain. It was melting in the Canyon and possibly rained there, too.

Bradford Washburn...Boston Museum of Science. Not sure if he has color pics available, but for a fee, the b&w's are high quality and worth the $$ if you're planning a project.

Old school...works in a pinch when gear short. Lots of bolts behind...a short leadout from the double biners...and a clean fall if there's pilot error.

As of last night...there wasn't much snow on Si...mostly pockets, here and there. Quite a bit of dirt now, too.