treknclime

I thought Petzel made something, but maybe NOLSe made something up w/webbing. If I remember right, it's basically like the old skewl tie-ins that were used on ice tools. I'll check out a map, and do a drive by. AlpineDave was right to ask...anyone care if the rock is trashed up a bit with some dry-tool'in action?

I'm waiting for the SR900 directions, and once I have them, I'll guarantee I'll get up there within a couple of days...rain or shine. I'll get in touch with Dave, Ade, TM, and some others for a night like you all in PDX. Sounds fun, and motivating. As far as doing something really hard, who knows, maybe you'll see my name attached to a class 2 route...a DT first ascent! I'm also getting set for a trip up HW410, and I know of a couple of potential places up there.

Heck...I heard about that one, but don't know where it is. Dave...pls post or PM me with the location...and a couple of evenings that work for ya. I'd meet up at least 1-2 nights a week on a regular basis, for a crazy fool-tool'in night. NOLSe...great tips, dude...and much appreciated. That'll get me and that slacker roll'in for some great snizz'in on the rock.

OK...I remember seeing a post about some dry tooling up at the toolshed, and at E38. What about some other places? Road cuts, or ?? I keep reading about PDX's and their evening workouts...and I'm keen to find something similar up this way. I've got some ideas for stuff around Eatonville...or along 410, which I plan to check out soon. I'd like to flush out some other options. Anyone have some places they'd like to share??

Count me in...I'd buy a pair, too, Mr. T.

LOST: Grivel 3rd Tool, 38 cm, red handle, and red sewn leash. There’s an old oval biner, with yellow and blue tape attached to the leash. LOCATION: Lillooet, Hell’s Creek Falls (within 45 minutes of the road), Sunday January 16 Yes, I feel really stupid. We were walking out in the dark in some new snow, and the tool must have fallen out in the approach gully. The hammer isn’t worth much, but I’d really like it back. Pls PM me if you happen to find it. I’ll gladly reward you with a 6-pack of your favorite beverage. Thanks!

Not sure what Success Cleaver would be like for skiing... challenging, for sure. The upper part of Success/Kautz Cleavers haven't been skied, to the best of my knowledge. There may not be enough snow in that area to link through all the rockbands, but I haven't looked that closely at the area lately. Could be OK. The rock goes class three or so when it's exposed, or there some longer snow roundabouts that avoid them (level traverses). The snow on the SC in the winter isn't always the best...kinda bottomless or rotten at times (up near the headwall). I'd imagine the actual Success Cleaver would be slabby, with compact snow on the south side. I've been on the Cleaver a few times in the winter. Was first climbed by a team from Tacoma years ago (mid 70's??). A TNT writer on that team fell on the way down and didn't survive. The first solo winter ascent was done, to the best of my knowledge, by Mike Rowley, back in '79 or '80, in a 4 day trip (he approached from Longmire). Be sure to post a TR after your trip. Have super time!

FOA...I was given a pair of those yoursoles as a gift...and haven't used them yet. Guess we'll see if they'll work for me. Thx for the info and hopefully I'll have better luck. Good luck to you...and hope you get your program worked out.

Check out www.yoursole.com A Canadian product; less expensive than custom, but you can customize by placing the insoles in the oven and they mold to your feet (per product instructions). Anyone have experience with these??

Isn't using snowshoes on the HR in July akin to using snowshoes on Rainier in July; it's typically not done or needed. Not sure what the snow conditions would be like then, but seems to me you could probably walk most of it on snow (there are probably some trails out by then too, on some of it??).

The smaller gear loop on the front...I think is for a tool; a quick place to drop a tool when needed (hence, it's an alpine harness vs. rock/sport harness). Seems like I'm having trouble with the front padded part of my Trango (budget) harness too, and have the same issue with the padded part not going all the way around and sliding up or down (especially with winter clothing). Post your photo; it'd be nice to glean what you've done and maybe I'll do the same. I don't think you're anal...actually, I think it saves energy if all the little things that create discomforts or confusion are modified or fixed...so that one can focus on the more important things during a climb.

I know some harnesses can have the retaining straps rewoven through the buckle...and for those that can't, I've either sewn or tied a knot to keep them from slipping. Not easlily adjusted when that's the case, but sometimes it's a quick solution.

Details? What do you like...and not like in the Blizzard? Edit: I saw someone wearing the Blizzard this weekend, and decided to learn more about it on the web--and noted it was on sale. My post was really for those that might be interested in purchasing it...and getting a deal on it. However...any feedback on what you all like/don't like in a harness would be helpful. What are your favs?

http://www.bdel.com/gear/alpinism/blizzard.php

I gotta agree with JosephH...Astanga Yoga is effective.

Niiiiccce. Sounds schweeet! Thx.

Are you going with all 70's? Or...are you going with a mix of different lengths...depending on the objective?

Brad Johnson's book is the one to get: http://www.rei.com/product/47822221.htm ISBN: 1-890437-90-5 Can't beat Brad's effort...and you'll know your $$ is going to a great guy. He's been climbing in the Blanca for years, and really did his homework on the new guide.

Saw a guy peel about a half pitch on Midway...and just missed Jello Tower on the way down. 4-5 of his SMC camlocks pulled...and he didn't stand a chance. My partner and I assisted with the rescue with Chelan rescue, but that's another story. Haven't used any Tricams, but know some guys like'em.

Best place to park??

Maybe too warm now? On the other hand...heard it was still cold in the Gorge area??

What's your halfbag fabric?

NOLSe...that nanatk stuff is dope. What are you using on your two day trips? That orange bag of yours...is that a half bag?

So...is the Wild Things Icesac the way to go? Light enough for most alpine stuff...and OK for 2-3 day trips? Support? What would you change on it, if given the chance? I ask that since I was thinking to get one with a few modifications.

Would never use one on Rainier, unless it was midwinter and really COLD weather, and even then...I would think twice about it. Venting seems to be key in the mid-lattitudes. Have used a one-piece a lot in AK, but am still conflicted. You've really gotta have your system down well to avoid delays caused by dealing with changing temps and weather--and dealing suit adjustments (top down and tied around waist, or up; lots of zippers, too). All other clothing underneath must match up accesswise, in order to get into things for quick "business." I almost think bibs are the way to go for AK...and they work OK for Rainier, too. My .02's.