treknclime

Details? What do you like...and not like in the Blizzard? Edit: I saw someone wearing the Blizzard this weekend, and decided to learn more about it on the web--and noted it was on sale. My post was really for those that might be interested in purchasing it...and getting a deal on it. However...any feedback on what you all like/don't like in a harness would be helpful. What are your favs?

http://www.bdel.com/gear/alpinism/blizzard.php

I gotta agree with JosephH...Astanga Yoga is effective.

Niiiiccce. Sounds schweeet! Thx.

Are you going with all 70's? Or...are you going with a mix of different lengths...depending on the objective?

Brad Johnson's book is the one to get: http://www.rei.com/product/47822221.htm ISBN: 1-890437-90-5 Can't beat Brad's effort...and you'll know your $$ is going to a great guy. He's been climbing in the Blanca for years, and really did his homework on the new guide.

Saw a guy peel about a half pitch on Midway...and just missed Jello Tower on the way down. 4-5 of his SMC camlocks pulled...and he didn't stand a chance. My partner and I assisted with the rescue with Chelan rescue, but that's another story. Haven't used any Tricams, but know some guys like'em.

Best place to park??

Maybe too warm now? On the other hand...heard it was still cold in the Gorge area??

What's your halfbag fabric?

NOLSe...that nanatk stuff is dope. What are you using on your two day trips? That orange bag of yours...is that a half bag?

So...is the Wild Things Icesac the way to go? Light enough for most alpine stuff...and OK for 2-3 day trips? Support? What would you change on it, if given the chance? I ask that since I was thinking to get one with a few modifications.

Would never use one on Rainier, unless it was midwinter and really COLD weather, and even then...I would think twice about it. Venting seems to be key in the mid-lattitudes. Have used a one-piece a lot in AK, but am still conflicted. You've really gotta have your system down well to avoid delays caused by dealing with changing temps and weather--and dealing suit adjustments (top down and tied around waist, or up; lots of zippers, too). All other clothing underneath must match up accesswise, in order to get into things for quick "business." I almost think bibs are the way to go for AK...and they work OK for Rainier, too. My .02's.

Munter raps = really twisted ropes, althought it's good to know for backup. Also not good to use if your rap ends in a rockfall area...

Let's get back to Greta's question...

Good effort! Always good to play it safe on FF...especially in winter/spring with new snow or when avi is present. At least 4 climbers have died in the Finger over the years due to avi issues.

Wish we had something like this in Washington. http://www.truckinginfo.com/news/news-detail.asp?news_id=53544

Agreed on both accounts. Sorry for the duplicate post.

RIP http://www.usatoday.com/tech/news/2005-01-04-obit-dickert_x.htm?csp=34

Nice photo.

Whatya think is gonna be "in" during the middle of Jan? Guess it really depends on what's happening with the weather. Thanks for keeping us up on the conditions!

http://nepalnews.com/

It was October and the Indians on a remote reservation asked their new Chief if the coming winter was going to be cold or mild. Since he was a Chief in a modern society he had never been taught the old secrets. When he looked at the sky he couldn't tell what the winter was going to be like. Nevertheless, to be on the safe side he told his tribe that the winter was indeed going to be cold and that the members of the village should collect firewood to be prepared. But being a practical leader, after several days he got an idea. He went to the phone booth, called the National Weather Service and asked, "Is the coming winter going to be cold?" "It looks like this winter is going to be quite cold," the meteorologist at the weather service responded. So the Chief went back to his people and told them to collect even more firewood in order to be prepared. A week later he called the National Weather Service again. "Does it still look like it is going to be a very cold winter?" "Yes," the man at National Weather Service again replied, "it's going to be a very cold winter." The Chief again went back to his people and ordered them to collect every scrap of firewood they could find. Two weeks later the Chief called the National Weather Service again. "Are you absolutely sure that the winter is going to be very cold?" "Absolutely," the man replied. "It's looking more and more like it is going to be one of the coldest winters ever." "How can you be so sure?" the Chief asked. The weatherman replied, "The Indians are collecting firewood like crazy."

Had it happen to me on a mild day in the summer once. My crampons were strapped too tight on my leathers. Took about 2-3 months to get back all the senstation in both feet. Weird.

A ground release isn't all that uncommon, and can happen at a variety of depths...and it's more common in the rockies (caused from cold clear nights)... or around here after rising snow levels and some rain. The snowpack is heated at the earth (or moisture is sublimated from colder airtemps above the snowpack), causing faceting...otherwise known as rotten snow--a weakness in bonding is created between the snow and ground. Something certainly to be careful around when you notice deep grainy snow with big crystals near the ground, rocks, trees, or other "heat sinks." That's my understand of things, anyhow.