beaconben

Right on guys! We will have to go finish that route before it closes. I feel for the birds, but what a drag that the Picnic Lunch Wall closes. I think that only began last year.

Thanks for the invite out east Steve. I will try to remember to take you up on that

I would like to go for Hood N Face next good weekend weather window

I have not read this thread for a while. You rock Tyler. It is awesome that you and others are doing this. I can't wait to get on Santiam Hwy Ledges.

shit, I guess I need to read the whole thread before posting. so it has been freed, that is sweet. the crux might include a fist jam on the P4 overhang, put a #4 camalot there. those guys had some balls freeing with those rusty old "bolts", bolts probably are not even what they technically are. like geoff said it would amount to pretty close to a free solo, and on questinable rock. The Tombstone Crack is one of the best pitches around, and probably the best location at smith. The exposure here seemed to dwarf monkey face or picnic lunch wall. Like Wayne said it turns to a hand crack after about 30 ft. in fact there is not much protection opportunity besides hand size cams. Next time I will try to free it, and be armed with about 8 BD #2's, maybe more. so who is gong to help me work on the P3 variation

Yo Alex. The rock is really not that bad, in fact there is a good bit of nice solid rock. I am kind of obsessed with the idea of making a free variation on P3. It looks to me like you could free the continuation of the P2 crack system with better rock, steep, and bigger holds. I will post more in a bit

Thanks for looking into this. This is local for myself as well.

what, you guys don't have video of almost dying

that was bloody scott, he bloodied the whole first pitch of dod's jam, which was our high point sunday. I have climbed at beacon in the winter wind before, but I have never had my ass kicked like that. how about the other folks out there sunday. did you make it up the corner. we passed another party as we stumbled out, heads hanging low. what about you kev, arent, john. that little moutain told me in no uncertain terms, "pack your shit, and get out of here!"

Sorry Kev, I love The Big Labowski. Had fun at the party. Bill sorry I did not make it to yours. Keep those cams warm and cozy.

At first I wanted to get old anchors out of the way, but Opdyke requested that we leave them for history sake. Now I am totally on board with leaving the anchors and adding new ones. As has been said, it's pretty cool to see the crazy old anchors that were used but not have to rely on them. Of course if you are crazy ivan you just rap off whatever is there. As far as the lead bolt, if it is going to be replaced, lets pull it and use the hole, unless it is really unusual one of a kind jingus mank. In that case leave it for others to see. Of course you can just do whatever you want.

I'm all for an ascent of pipedream, and anchor replacement.

thanks for the tip about john day, although it looks like its warming up out there too. shit

Before that pic was taken a leader took a fist size chunk of ice to the head, said ouch, and finished the lead. looked like it hurt

Do you think you are going to have to work tomorrow?

So what do you guys see out there. Should I take tomorrow off. Who can go tomorrow. my cell 503-464-6548

Looking for partner and route condition tips. Is it too warm to do this route this weekend? Anybody been up there with the trail closure.

North Face or other route if conditions warrant

How about the North side this weekend

Maybe the roof is not as hard as I thought, just a little sandbagged like much of Beacon. 5.10d is a pretty tough grade.

Nice ivan. That is awesome that you climed so many routes this year that have probably seen few ascents ( and in any case seem to have had almost zero ascents in the last 10 years.) about this route, I surmized that this route was Takes Fist (while rap cleaning it), since the roof that you left those red etriers looked like 5.12 instead of 5.10d. I figured the easiest free route goes up this fist crack then cuts left at the replaced anchor/horizontal fist crack to join the sweet dihedral. It would be good to ask the first ascensionists. I think one of them is Mark Cartier

not to cock block you powderhound, but I can pick them up if you still have them.

of course free climbing is the best and what we usually do when we go climbing. the point is that your going to want to climb a route that you can't free. I say climb it. the most pathetic thing in climbing is the dude that says "I am saving that route until I can onsight it", then never climbs the route

I read about half of this thread and I get so mad at myself for waisting my time reading all of this hot air. So here is some more. Do you think the Nose was climbed in less than 3 hrs or the Zodiac in less than two by not pulling on gear or other aid and french free techniques. Yeah this is the ice forum, climbing is climbing. what do you care what style other poeple climb in anyway. we are all climbing for some intangible reason, fun or adventure or whatever it is. considering your sense of style of ascent is not one of mine. Warren Harding said something like this about the Early Morning Light-It was a grand piece of rock and I wanted very much to climb it. And didn't Robbins put up The Prow Somebody on this thread said you won't get better unless you practice pure free climbing techniques. You might find the opposite to be true. Expand your horisons.

I sent them an email. anyone join me. where and when are the monthly park meetings