beaconben
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Everything posted by beaconben
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Thanks guys. I have always wanted to climb that spire. now hopefully it will actually be enjoyable.
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[TR] SmiffistaniRawks - Free(ish) Lunch & Fishtaco Dihedral 1/29/2011
beaconben replied to ivan's topic in Oregon Cascades
Thanks for the great trip Ivan. I really loved Free Lunch, it is definitely one of my favorite routes at Smith. Pitch 4 is so awesome. It must be about 180 feet long, 5.8 and 5.9, follows the same solid crack the whole way. Pitch 5 had a cool crux, you have to climb thru a small overhang to enter a flaring chimney, which seemed kind of unique -
I do recall reading a tr on st peters dome. pretty terrifying. I will get turned around quick on stuff that loose.
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when I drive thru the gorge with my wife and kids she never lets me drive due to the almost crashing while looking at walls thing. I hate to bring up the rat cave online, but how good of rock is that. solid enough to climb. one of these days I will make to make an attempt on the big wall section, on one of those walls to the right of ainsworth. I will call the route "you're gonna grab a patch of weeds and fall on your ass." how tall do you guys figure those walls are. I am guessing about 800 feet. how about going top down on the crown point wall to see if a line can be cleaned down to "solid enough"? here is another thing, not all the rock is that crap basalt. there are some non basalt walls. example, crown point falls.
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[TR] Beasodden Rock - Dimwits in Da Deluge 10/17/2009
beaconben replied to ivan's topic in Oregon Cascades
Thanks Ivan. That was a great outing for me. guess I dont't get out much. Can't wait to do Pipedream -
wow, thanks for the Leslie Gulch photos. Justin, I will visit if you move there
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Thanks for the info
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These are peregrines, right?
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is that rare plant species going to affect access? not that I have ever climed there
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dude, you are going to piss off friends of the gorge with before and afters like that.
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sheesh tyler, i must say i take you to be quite the badass at this point. dude, you have got to bag a classic el cap route while you have your aid head. i would love to read a tr from you about P.O., sea of dreams, zenyatta mondatta. i have talked to people who have done these routes, compared to what you are doing, you might not even find this selection scary enough. go do reticent, or worse. it is granite, after all. just freaky, expanding, loose, hollow sounding granite. oh, and whatever that black shit rock is called. shit may actually be the technical term for it.
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The picnic lunch closure was listed on a sign down by the bridge/water fountian last time I was there, about a month ago. smith rock.com also says the picnic lunch wall is closed february thru july. Once somehting like that gets posted what has to happen to reverse the decision. hey ivan, what did Walter Sobchak say about the bowling match being already posted for saturday?
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I wholeheartedly agree about the sweatpants. nice trip guys
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Awesome thread, thanks contributors and Tyler for starting it up. I agree that pinnacles are kind of Oregon's strength as far as climbing goes, although questionable rock and horrible ancient fixed "bolt ladders" seem to be what these routes have in common. In any case, this thread is a great psyche. Gonna have to hit the Menagerie and Callahan’s this summer and scare the shit out of myself Tyler, have you climbed The Steeple, near Steins. is it easy to find. Sorry I have no photos to post, although you can check out tha Abaxas TR posted in Nov 09. Is the Monument Oregon's largest pinnacle. I Guess that would be Mt Jefferson.
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Has anyone tried the offset Metolius Master Cams. Will they work on El Cap's pin scars like Alien Hybrids?
