beaconben

Thanks for the great trip reports Ivan. I'm psyched we got up the captain, and especially psyched you got up the captain, an ascent well deserved after your previous years attempts. I think Tangerine Trip was the hardest El Cap experience I have been thru because there are no ledges on the route. I think the aid climbing is easier than Zodiac, but not being able to stand on any sort of ledge for that many days, I found that to be kind of brutal. Just standing and sitting on that ledge one pitch from the top felt like such a luxury. Great trip Ivan!!

Somebody on this site has to know snakes, please let us know. I do not think that is a rattlesnake.

Sheesh Kev, they are really kicking the crap out of you. I guess people are not interested in this topic. I like big wall climbing, or something like that. You will probably know if you do a wall cause it really puts the hurt on. Of course there seem to be plenty of badasses out there who would contradict that, doing two walls in a day and such. So just couse a route is more than 1000 feet, I am not sure that really qualifies. for instance, Royal Arches to me does not qualify as "big wall", while the much shorter Space Shot does. There are so many styles to climb walls in. I always encourage buddies to go for beginner walls in a day, like leaning tower or Moonlight Butress. But it seems like people doing some of their first walls have to go thru a bivi or two to feel like they have really have experienced big wall climbing.

Thanks guys. I have always wanted to climb that spire. now hopefully it will actually be enjoyable.

Thanks for the great trip Ivan. I really loved Free Lunch, it is definitely one of my favorite routes at Smith. Pitch 4 is so awesome. It must be about 180 feet long, 5.8 and 5.9, follows the same solid crack the whole way. Pitch 5 had a cool crux, you have to climb thru a small overhang to enter a flaring chimney, which seemed kind of unique

I do recall reading a tr on st peters dome. pretty terrifying. I will get turned around quick on stuff that loose.

when I drive thru the gorge with my wife and kids she never lets me drive due to the almost crashing while looking at walls thing. I hate to bring up the rat cave online, but how good of rock is that. solid enough to climb. one of these days I will make to make an attempt on the big wall section, on one of those walls to the right of ainsworth. I will call the route "you're gonna grab a patch of weeds and fall on your ass." how tall do you guys figure those walls are. I am guessing about 800 feet. how about going top down on the crown point wall to see if a line can be cleaned down to "solid enough"? here is another thing, not all the rock is that crap basalt. there are some non basalt walls. example, crown point falls.

Thanks Ivan. That was a great outing for me. guess I dont't get out much. Can't wait to do Pipedream

hey, thanks everyone for looking at this lame tr. I pretty much agree with Nate's beta, especially the french free part. We did sleep at rainbow ledge, i'll try to get a photo up someday. its a great bivy. Wayne, how did it go?

wow, thanks for the Leslie Gulch photos. Justin, I will visit if you move there

Thanks for the info

These are peregrines, right?

thanks Bill. Hopefully will get the other pics up someday

Does the resolution matter?

having problems adding photos

Trip: Red Rocks - Rainbow Wall Original Route Date: 4/17/2010 Trip Report: Did the Rainbow Wall Original Route, or Herbst/Hamilton Route. Sweet route, has the classic route quality of being a striking line when veiwed from afar.

sun turned out to be a bit too hot. tr someday

anyone have a recomendation for a shady route taht is open now. appreciate any info

is that rare plant species going to affect access? not that I have ever climed there

dude, you are going to piss off friends of the gorge with before and afters like that.

sheesh tyler, i must say i take you to be quite the badass at this point. dude, you have got to bag a classic el cap route while you have your aid head. i would love to read a tr from you about P.O., sea of dreams, zenyatta mondatta. i have talked to people who have done these routes, compared to what you are doing, you might not even find this selection scary enough. go do reticent, or worse. it is granite, after all. just freaky, expanding, loose, hollow sounding granite. oh, and whatever that black shit rock is called. shit may actually be the technical term for it.

Good trip guys, glad it worked out for you. Ivan, Space Shot goes just to the left of the Mid East Crisis looking dihedral

The picnic lunch closure was listed on a sign down by the bridge/water fountian last time I was there, about a month ago. smith rock.com also says the picnic lunch wall is closed february thru july. Once somehting like that gets posted what has to happen to reverse the decision. hey ivan, what did Walter Sobchak say about the bowling match being already posted for saturday?

anybody know if picnic lunch wall is gong to close this year?

I wholeheartedly agree about the sweatpants. nice trip guys