Bogen

The boards on those run a little hotter than some, resulting in ring cracks in the solder joints and dried out electrolytics. This causes the intermittent problems, til' something more critical pops. If you can easily afford it, replace it. If you want me to rebuild it, I will.

I fix monitors and stuff. Probably not the tube. What brand and model?

A friend says that we might be able to buy body bags from the army surplus store in vancouver. I'm gonna check it out as a bivy sac, what the hell!

http://www.mec.ca/Main/explore.jsp?FOLDER<>folder_id=730459 this is the stuff available internationally. Mec stuff is usually great, and their return policies are fantastic for when the gear isn't.

"Seems like some muthafucka's always tryin to ice skate up hill" Its like a mantra that gets stuck in my head far too often...

I just got a new pack from MEC. Can't say much about it, it didn't even have a description or price tag ($100 cdn) when I bought it. Gear loops on the waist band, around 40 or 50 litres, fits like a glove. Never had a pack on that fit so perfectly, it is almost immobile, even with weight. I think they are calling it the cragalot, it is not in the catalog or website yet. I tried it on, and immediately had to have it.

Drink water where you find it. Learned from my dad, supported in theory by what I learned in parasitology and immunology, done it all my life. I never miss an opportunity to drink water in the outdoors, to keep my immunity up. Haven't ever had a parasite I noticed. Very silty glacial run-off can give you mild cramps if you drink too much, though.

"I swear, there's something missing off that plane..."

Cool! I'm gonna sharpen something tonight to celebrate.

Next oil change, go with the 5 weight, and a full lube. Check your antifreeze. Alpine Club of Canada has an awesome clubhouse there, with kitchen and reasonably priced. http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/facility/clubhous.html Also http://www.gravsports.com/Canmore_Guide.htm has the lowdown on local eats and treats. Drink at the Drake, or a case of beer at the common area of the clubhouse is a great way to meet people.

I once saw seth mason climb up the indoor wall at U of A, stop climb back down head first, effortlessly like a damn squirrel, take his shirt off while upside down above the floor, set it down, then turn around and climb back up.

Are you saying that it is justified for her to feel bad (aka. SHOULD) because another woman was leading and she was struggling just following the climb. I guess I understand how/why she might feel bad...but SHOULD she feel bad because a person of the same sex is more advanced than her? Would that sentence be written the same if the gender roles were reversed? No, that's not what I am saying at all. I wouldn't dis her for her climbing ability, nor do I think lesser climbers of either gender should have to move aside for better climbers in any circumstance. I'm just saying the woman sounds like she deserves her inferiority complex.

It is kind of a flop house over there, but I don't remember touching anything with my lips...

My water-bottle-buddy has never had one either, and the virus is supposedly quite long-lived outside the body, as far as viruses go. Anyway, I don't really know where I got it, it just occured to me that many of us that gym climb are sharing spit with strangers. Squid, what happens when you put the rope in your mouth before clipping a draw?

Got a cold sore a few weeks ago, never had one before. GF never had one, kids never had one, etc. In wondering where I might have got it, it occurred to me that almost all of us, when lead climbing in the gym, put the rope in our mouths at some point when going for a long clip. The same area, of the same rope, in many different mouths... Gross!

Need a key for Old Settler, or did in July anyway.

What are the names of the local couple who took care of the logistics? I told the wife I'ld take her top-roping this year (she had never been!?) but I lost the name and number.

If I get up at 4 am to climb some long route with loose rock, you shouldn't even be trying to pass. If an area has lineups, all you do is catch the next party, pushing my party back. Same as freeway traffic, when it's bumper to bumper there is always some jackass weaving in and out of traffic. Should EVERYONE pull right just for the odd speed freak? It's logistically ridiculous. The answer to the question is completely situational. Communicate. If I'm up there with noobs, or working something a little hard for me, and someone steams up on me asking to pass, I'll ask whether they know the route, whether they are going to be in my way later, what the rockfall hazard is. If that person is reasonable, we will come to a reasonable, probably amicable solution. If that person is not reasonable, he is going to have a frustrating day, if not life... The initial poster did everything correct, although perhaps too apologetically. The woman ahead of his group was spreading her frustration, he shouldn't have accepted it. They weren't trying to pass or anything, and completely not in the way. Probably the previous second saw the wife leading and suddenly felt inferior (justifiably,) and tried to bring her down. Sounds like she succeeded somewhat, and that's a real travesty.

Those of us that can turn tables on the ignorant dogs and dog owners should do so. There are a lot of people victimized in this fashion. Conversely, go out of your way to thank responsible dog owners.

Passing, like playing through in golf, should be VERY politely done, if at all. On really busy routes it's not an option anyway, you 'll just be behind the next group... 10 years ago I was on Diedre with 2 noobs, 1 a girly-girl who didn't climb. We were on the route in the blazing sun for 6 PAINFUL hours, but only because the party ahead of us (or the party ahead of them) was even slower than us. Another time, same route, different noob, we climbed the direct to bypass part of the lineup. Waiting on the ledge above pitch one, fucking around for a snack or something, I totally kicked my pack off the ledge So, I lowered down to get it, it had travelled an unbelievable distance, almost back to the big stair log. Grabbed it, hoofed back up, tied in, reclimbed the pitch, and STILL waited over an hour to proceed! I don't line up for nuthin anymore, I'ld rather sit in the pub.

you just need enough syrup. but if you think it won't work do you volunteer your vehicle for a test? the guys on mythbusters put almost 1:1 sugar to gas in the gas tank of an old caddilac engine, it didn't bother it at all, even after they let it sit over night. Started right up, ran for hours. Bleach stalled the motor, but with no permanent damage (probably the water). Moth balls made it run better! Also, they shot the hell out of the gas tank at a rifle range, but couldn't make it explode. I love that show!

syrup and sugar in the gas tank doesn't work. Saw this on Mythbusters just the other day. Couple litres of water will keep them off the road for a few days...

As I remember, the shut down at Yam went in a couple stages, ie from full vehicle access, to tenting only, to bivying only, to no overnight. Given the destruction by partiers from calgary at the time I assume this to be cause and effect, but I don't know for sure. Regardless, I recommend treating free campgrounds with kid gloves. By the way, you been by that Ashlu road forestry campsite lately? Someone has quite an unruly encampment goin in there.

Yam meadows. About 12 years ago was a free campground and gathering site for climbers from all over, a splendid experience in itself. Now it is a protected area, you can't spend the night at all, even in your car in the parking lot. (probably more to do with partying 4x4er's than climbers) Yes, the women were obnoxious bitches, but I gotta go with option 2.

You make a good point - I had only included climbers in my assessment, and hadn't given a thought to "multi-use." However, I've never heard a non-climber complain about a bolt or line of bolts. I wonder if fishermen have these debates about piers and breakwaters and such.