JensHolsten

Your right Mike, numbers don't tell the whole story, but I have to disagree with you about 9's, 10,s, and 11,s in Washington being more difficult. If you climb solid Yosemite 5.12 then any 5.9, 5.10, or 5.11, while they may be heady, are not so difficult.

I was up at Nada day before yesterday and watched it fall apart in 40 degree temps. We did climb about part way up, but falling ice and snow from above created a sketchy scene and we bailed. No use getting squished so early in the season. Now, with the freezing level even higher, I imagine it is out for now. But...if it gets cold, it will quickly come into shape.

Just a thought here...I personally believe Dragons is a solid grade V. I am comparing this to the many, many grade V and VI climbs I have done over the years. Once you top out the "technical" section, the upper part of the route still holds A LOT of climbing. In fact, the upper NEB is known for its never ending nature. Just my 2 cents.

Thanks guys! Hate to burst your bubble, but it wasn't on sight. I tried the route last year right after Mikey sent. That said, I didn't spend much time on the route, nor did I know it well. Definitely a "stoner" on sight. Also, I had never climbed past pitch 6, so the 5.11+ leads through the night were on sight. TRL just might be the most sustained route in the state. Pitch ratings are: 5.11a, 5.11d, 5.11c/d,5.11b, 5.12c, 5.12b, 5.11a, 5.11d/12a, 5.10d...then it gets scrambly!

Hope to see ya'll this evening!

I have a funny story about an attempt at the traverse. To make a long story short I repeated the traverse with a partner and rope in 29 hours. My friend had never climbed in the Stuart Range (or with me for that matter) before: he got quite the tour. Dehydrated and sun stroked in between Stuart and Colchuck, he began skipping summits, instead going around as I tagged the peaks. About 6 miles from the Snow Lake's trail head we stopped and slept for a while, our 24 hour mark goal sliding away. When I asked my buddy to climb a week later, he politely refused. It was a bit traumatizing for him (I don't blame him) I can't wait to try again, alone. One thing I learned about this objective is that solo is the only way to go. Nice work again John.

yea, Sol! You're the man!

Gotta say though...renaming the route is a bit of a slap to Blake and Sol who made the best and most important ascent of the route. Go back and read their TR about firing this line ground up in inclement weather...the name was born from the original experiance, one that should not be forgotten, aid or no aid. That said, I refuse to care about this issue anymore, I just wanna go climb the thing.

Nice work Tom-I can't wait to try!

Great route. I think it might be one of the best for the grade in L-town.

Bump. Keep it in mind ya'll

Hi guys- Thanks for all the positive comments. I am so glad the route is getting the traffic it needs. Way to step up repeaters! One note on the dirt. My goal was to help (wayne started the inspiration by making the best ascent of the route: the first)establish a mountain climb of some technical difficulty. The alpine experience was paramount (for me). The Tempest Wall was cleaned for 2 months, DOE was cleaned for 2 days. DOE may have a harder technical grade that most around the Cascades, but that doesn't mean it's lost that scrappy Cascade's character. I would say DOE is a mountain climb, whereas something like the Tempest is a rock climb. Not sure is that makes sense, but just what I was thinking.

Ground up, no bolts, no pins! Stylee! You guys rock! Nice work, can't wait to climb it.

Just a note- GITM had not been done before, that was a first. It had been climbed on, but was a project never finished. We did eventually learn the history of the route. Also, if you think Acid Baby is loose, well...I don't what to tell you. Pretty damn clean, although of course there are loose rocks in the mountains. Oh, I see Dberdinka...you clarified the GITM thing. Not sure if you are trying to say the original effort was good enough to call a first or what, but in my opinion (I don't really care whether GITM is a first or not) it has not been done unless completed to the summy...that is the standard I hold myself to.

Yeah Leor. You're killing it! You gotta drag me along for one of these.

Thanks Brooke and Mikey for NOT bolting that pitch. There are too many shiny things sticking out of the east face already...It takes a humble person to tackle a grade V free route, admit one pitch is too dangerous, and then climb it in a creative manner that does not harm the rock. You guys rule.

The new Alpine Briefs (http://alpinebriefs.wordpress.com) just hit the net. Kelly and Dougald work hard to bring a unique perspective in this journal...no spray, no bull. Just the facts. I wrote a feature for the Far section about Max and my time in Alaska. Blake wrote a great feature for the Near section about Gorillas in the Mist on Stuart. Check it out! Jens

Nice report. I really like this route.

I have some pics and a video link of this route. Did it maybe two months ago now. We had a lot of fun, found the route finding to be straightforward and the rock good. Watch for falling rocks...a good early season route above the lake.

Sweet Wayne! Thanks for the stoke.

Those topos are works of art...nice work up north. Those towers look dreamy. Guess I'll have to add 'em to the list.

I really like these shots...cool stuff. I will say to potential free solo suitors...Pope's left hand hold in the second shot (a key hold on BB's) is loose as a goose these days. Careful if your up there with no cord...

The 12a pitch on DOE is quite solid...75% of the pitch is on difficult ground...a fight all the way to the end. Something to consider for those who want to do the route, but are not up for the spicy 5.12...Blake and Pete repeated (they did not summit) DOE with a variation that is around the corner and off to the right. Their pitch went at 5.10. Sol and I noticed this variation and I think it will be climbed often. That said, so will the 5.12...it is clean, hard, sustained, and technical, really one of the best pitches in the Enchantments (if not the best). You guys should all go take a lap! let's clean this thing up. Sol and I only had three days for this project so I did a lot of selective cleaning for myself to send...repeat suitors will find a lot of grain that needs to come off still...unless you climb the crux. Beautiful smooth stone on that one.

Thanks for the patience guys...still no pics, but I wrote some thoughts on jensholsten.blogspot.com Hope you enjoy it!

Hopefully I can clear this up...what Blake is saying makes total sense. It is simple: each pitch has been lead free over the last two months. A continous free ascent has not occured. If a climber falls on a pitch, cleans the gear, and red points the pitch, their free ascent can go on. But the roof pitch was not redpointed on the day of the complete ascent. The climber chose not to pull his rope and continued climbing the upper pitches. Although he did not make the official ffa of The Tempest Wall, he gave it his all and was happy with his effort, which is really all that matters. Nice work Tom!! Tom, his partner, Max Hasson, Cole Allen, Ryan Paulsness and I spent a night under the route getting to know each other, working through concerns. In the end our differences in opinion were smoothed out and I look foward to climbing with Tom this summer...talking about this on the net is totally pointless, clearing the issue up face to face under a moonlit CBR was pricless.