Friedrich

Nice one Feck! Love the pics, sweet crazy lighting.

WOW! Fantastic, inspiring story, photos, and TR. Well done!

It really works!

Congrats Feck! Great pics too, nice! Reading your Trip report, for some reason I started hearing an old Simon & Garfunkel song in my head. "Slip-sliding away..."

That is a bummer. I was drooling over these at pro mountain sports and was thinking of replacing my old original hotwires with them. The high KN strength rating despite the large size and light weight seemed almost too good to be true. Guess it was. RIP Photon biner

Poor Technique

Huzzah Karl! Awesome TR, awesome pics. Go man go

DPS you are the man. Funny meeting up with you again in this unexpected and totally cool karmic way. Cheers my friend!

Jens I am with you on this. The loss of public access to corporate interests always starts with these small incremental steps. Does anyone know if the user permit in question is available online? or if not, how to file a FOIA request to get a copy? Maybe someone knows the best person at the Access Fund to pass this along to. I think we have a few concerned citizens on this, but I certainly don't have the time to fight it myself (which is what they always count on, of course). I highly suggest everyone read Jens' thread.

Need to beg, borrow or buy (cheap) a fistful of knifeblade or thin pitons. Working on a new Alpine route project and ran out of pitons on my last attempt. There is an entire pitch of piton-only M4/5. It's all thin icy proto-cracks and frozen turf. Nothing else will work. I only have a small handful and so I thought I'd put this out to the community to see if one or more of you can help me out. I promise the TR will be epic! SO, please PM me if you have some thin blades or small angles you are willing to lend/sell/gift. If you are bodily attached to the pitons and want to help push up the rope, also let me know. Thanks

Good video. At first I wasn't sure how this was relevant to this particular mod, because it didn't have anything to do with pickets. Then I looked at his blog post again and I realized you were looking at the rubber keeper on the sling joining the picket and his locking biner. You have some sharp eyes, I didn't notice that.

Right on! I put up a top 9 on the other thread. There are some amazing TR's on here of hard FA's on remote Alaskan peaks, but for me, the "regular guy" stuff a little closer to home is the most FUN to read. Here's my favorite. Nice blend of sporty climbing, humor, and local achievability, with great pictures throughout. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=974525

Here's some other good ones: An amazing FA in Alaska New route on Fitzroy WOW Great Bugaboo TR with an accidental variation that actually improves the Becky-Chouinard route. Fun TR about bouncing around the swiss/italian alps with friends Great TR of Liberty Ridge with pics and video New Route TR -most details are in the comments but great FA Great shots from the birthplace of alpine climbing, Chamonix Sunniest TR induces much envy It's impossible to have too many Bugaboo TR's. Here's another.

Spionin, your tagline is a misnomer. I'm nominating this for best TR contest, great read!

Hey that is a pretty good idea there dude. I'd love to see how that top piece holds up under repeated pounding. If it works well, you should propose the mod to MSR! I bet if Larry Penberthy were still alive (RIP) we'd see that modification offered at retail next season. Nice blog.

That would be cool. What bugs me is the unpredictability of it. I parked there overnight on Dec 17th blissfully unaware, no problems. Then 2 weekends ago after calling and getting the scare-down, we parked super far away for our overnight, because it would really suck to get back from a climb and find out your car was towed. Too much risk. Luckily we were able to thumb rides both to and from the trailhead almost instantly. Nice people around here. Too bad the owners of the facility aren't so welcoming.

If this pisses you off too, please continue discussion on the 'access issues' forum: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1012363#Post1012363

Reposting this discussion happening over at the climber's board. The Summit/Alpental ski operators are cracking down on overnight parking despite the fact that their uppper 2 lots sit on forest service land. This restricts access to popular trails like snow lake in winter, which are also on USFS land. Not happy! http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1012362#Post1012362

I called the above number recently and spoke to security. Unfortunately what they told me is that they ARE towing all overnight parkers. Even though I offered to pay the $10 bucks for the RV fee and park in the RV lot (as described on their website) they said 'no, that's only for people who are going to stay in their vehicle.' They were adamant on the subject-- apparently they've recently decided they are going to "enforce the policy" to not allow overnight parking "during the ski season" whenever that is. This kinda pissed me off, especially because the upper 2 lots are on forest service land. I politely asked how they could do this on public land? The guy on the phone said that they have the ability to do this under the terms of their conditional use permit with the US forest service. Call the number yourself and see what they say. This sucks.

A couple ideas/requests: Since there are 5,525 TR's, even if someone's read 250 of them, that's only like 5% of the available candidates. I'm personally hesitant to say I've read THE ONE that's the best. Perhaps some of the old hands could post their personal "top 5 favorite TR's"? Kinda separate the wheat from the chaff a bit for everybody. It would be fun to read them, then we could '+1' the TR we liked best out of those lists. Another idea is that people who've authored a lot of TR's could volunteer the one they're personally most proud of, y'know, like those Academy Award ads which say "for your consideration." I agree, TR's are one of the best things about this board. I would enjoy reading more good ones.

Great pics! Love your TR

Check it out- Last time I saw something like this was about 10 years ago, when I spent the night in the WAC cabin at snoqualmie pass. There was a big group of us, and instead of sleeping, we listened to avalanches rumbling down all night off the surrounding mountains. Awe inspiring.

Well done! I second what Heinrich said

Shaabang! TR of the month for sure! Awesome

Hell yes! What Tom said. And Curtvelt. Also, nice to see someone else is rocking the Scarpa Brios