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OlympicMtnBoy

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Everything posted by OlympicMtnBoy

  1. I used real rocks on a climbing structure a long time ago, just find ones with a flatish side, sand/grind a bit flatter depending on hardness, drill and countersink a hole, bolt to the wall. Worked great for about half of my holds, buy your jug/pocket holds from one of the many other online folks.
  2. Cool, that one is safe from the aliens and government mind control waves even!
  3. http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/spo/2687730960.html not my ad, no connection to it but FYI
  4. Moving time and I'm realizing that although I'd love to have these around for that rare time I remember that "old article back in xxx", I probably don't need to cart them around. ~93 old Rock and Ice and Climbing mags, mostly 2003-present with a few other random ones. I'd love these to go to a good home. I left a bunch in Russia when I was there several years ago but I don't have any trips planned anywhere to take them right now. I'm in Fremont.
  5. Hey Murse! I'm going to be living there as of next weekend and I'll be up for something. Frankly I'm not a boulderer and think wrestling tiny pebbles is weird. I do however reluctantly own a pad and sometimes find joy getting up a pebble or two and I'm sure I'll need to do some work this winter to stay in shape without a climbing gym nearby. I can probably be talked into working some easier problems and brushing snow off stuff. ;-) I don't know what the best winter spots are yet though. Look me up! - Stewart
  6. Dynafit TLT 700 Alpine Touring / Backcountry / Randonee ski boots Size 29.5 (mondo) - ~11.5 US These are compatible with dynafit (tech) bindings and standard backcountry bindings. I've upgraded to newer boots that fit me better (smaller) but these still have some life in them for someone just looking to get into the sport! Usual wear and tear but fully functional. I made a repair to the walk mode switch on one boot but it works great. Inner boots are older "semi thermo-fit" but very comfy and well padded and work much better as hut booties than newer inners without laces and a sole. In Fremont if you want to try them on. Pics on my CL ad: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/2685808885.html $5 off the CL price for cc.com members (PM me here) cause you rock! - Stewart
  7. I've got some Dynafit TLT 700s that are size 29.5-30. Too big for me but they got me started. Well used but still plenty of life - $70 (cc.com discount). Let me know if those might work for you. http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/2685808885.html
  8. My girlfriend and I are moving to Leavenworth in 2 weeks, hit us up when you get into town and we might be up for something.
  9. Holy photo blast batman! Nice pics though, that is a great way to do it. Makes a nicer loop I think. Kinda pretty crags I'd love to check out some time above Young Lakes too.
  10. It's pretty easy to see why it's harder to have the waist prusik below the foot loops if you try it, especially if the rope is not heavily weighted below you. If you have the waist prusik on top you can "rest" on it while you fiddle to get the foot prusik up. If you have the foot prusik on top and the rope below you is slack you have to spend a lot more energy to balance yourself on your feet while you try to slide the lower waist prusik up. If you are using a gri-gri or similar it's not an issue because you can just pull up on the slack line (or down if you use an extra pulley like ivan). If you are using a normal jumar or a prusik it will be a bitch.
  11. BUMP! We're still looking, called a few of the craigslist postings but no luck yet. We'll be over next Sunday-Monday to do some more exploring, bulletin board checking, and driving around looking for signs. Anyone who still lives there seen/heard anything? Or just want to give a friendly hello? :-) - Stewart
  12. Having climbed in Russia and run into Russian expeditions in Central Asia, I think there is also a difference in organizational knowledge. The old soviet style of training climbers and more formally organized outings continues in some degree (varies regionally I think) and more of these "Russian Big Wall Project" climbs are able to take advantage of years of expedition experience and older climbers and put them together with younger folks willing to tough stuff out. Most American expeditions today are organized more or less in a vacuum (comparatively) and you tend to see smaller parties which often don't have multiple generations participating, organizing things largely on their own. Or maybe this just points to my own experiences?
  13. So after many happy years in our little enclave of Fremont it is time to turn up the moving music and jump out of the rut! My girlfriend has completed her Master's degree and just gotten a job in Leavenworth starting mid-November. Having spent a fair bit of time in the mountains there I'm really excited for the move although I really don't know the town all that well. We're looking for a cool place to live, as we have to give up the greatest apartment ever in Fremont, so I thought you folks might have some suggestions or inside info on something. It's just her and I, no kids or pets, but I'd really like to have a garage or workspace since my work schedule leaves me home a lot and I always have little tinkering projects going on. We have two cars and a Chinook (camper) at the moment so parking is important too. Maybe a small house or something? <$1300/mo without too much of a crazy winter commute to Icicle Rd. Ideas? Also since we don't know anyone in town we'd love to meet up with some of the local climbers or other interesting folks. I'll have lots of free time (weekdays too) for climbing, ice climbing, skiing (although I'm a mediocre BC skier), etc, but we're also into good food and beer. We're nice people! She starts around November 14th so we'll probably have a couple of weekend trips soon to look at houses/apartments and stuff and then moving. Let me know if you've got a line on either good living spots or good people. :-) Cheers, Stewart
  14. 12 years or so ago it wasn't too bad and there was a hand line strung across. The girls fording in their undies made the water seem less cold too. ;-)
  15. The newer Foretrex 401 is a pretty good replacement unit, almost exactly the same as the geko but with the newer better receiver and some other minor improvements. Just in case it doesn't turn up . . .
  16. Sweet! What a great trip and good clean style! Way to go on your first Cap'n solo! I might be talked into a winter trip to Zodiac too if you're still feeling it in a few months. ;-)
  17. Yeah, great climb! Although I kind of felt the first pitch was the crux for me, hehehe, classic Index. It's a great route and you can leave all your trad gear at the first belay. Rap with a 70.
  18. I am logged into google stuff and I still get a "That page was not found" error. Check the albums security settings so it's public. Sometimes it gets changed automatically to private when you do certain stuff.
  19. I use a gold and green link cam extensivly for easy-moderate alpine stuff. Often I use those same two cams for a "second set" on slightly harder stuff or mixed (bolt) climbs like Darrington where it can be nice to have that extra one for the belay. I agree with the sentiment that they are slightly more specialized and can break more easily when placed incorrectly (like in flared pockets, etc). When I'm using them for easy-moderate stuff I'm almost always able to find a good place for them, and take the time to get them placed in the direction of fall. They aren't mindlessly plug and go, but neither are nuts. I'm willing to make the trade off for a lighter rack (fewer pieces) on some climbs. I also normally have a few smaller aliens with me. I haven't used the red size as much because it overlaps too much with the gold. The purple size seems a bit tiny and too easy to get stuck but I haven't climbed with one either.
  20. Bummer, hopefully someone gets up there to get it for ya. For others I'd note you can rap that easily with a single 60 and avoid such heartache, plenty of anchors up there.
  21. Come one, come all, it's always a good time! Trailer: Venue: Egyptian Theatre Date: Thurs 10/06 Show Time: 7:00 pm Tickets: $12 in advance from Feathered Friends, Second Ascent, and Vertical World. $15 at the door. Presented by Feathered Friends, Second Ascent, and Vertical World. More info at www.reelrocktour.com
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