Rad

Here's a problem: parking permits for long day trips. Example: Climbers plan to climb Backbone ridge on Dragontail in a long day. They park their car at Mountaineer Creek trailhead and start down the trail at 4:30am. The ranger cruises the lot at 6am looking for cars of illegal/permitless campers, finds the climber car with no overnight permit, and issues a ticket for $200. $200! The climbers return to their car at 7pm after a long day only to find this ticket. Because the ticket is handled by federal district court it is nearly impossible to contest, and not paying it is a federal crime. Of course the climbers never camped in the area as they were moving all day. THIS is a problem that needs to be addressed.

Nice work. The 3rd photo is the same composition as the cover of Climbing a few months back, minus clouds and with the climber a little lower. If you didn't place gear on the great gendarme pitches (at least the first, judging by photos) then why bring a rope at all?

Still some loose rock to be cleaned so be careful.

- We'll be off before that storm gets here. - When in doubt, run it out. - I'd better not place the (insert favorite piece) here because I might need it higher. - We didn't really need that (insert forgotten item) anyway.

Duderinos! The force is strong with Colin now. He spent last Friday polishing his climbing and schwacking skills by giving my lengthy laurel a haircut. He should send that proj by the end of the week (at V+, 5.9+, A2-) ...even without completing the mountie class on gravel anchors... No mere mortal that boy.

Thanks!! So then...if you were to go back and do it all again with 20/20 hindsight: 1 - Would you bother with the lower N Ridge at all? 2 - If so, which line would you choose?

Bump. Anyone got photos that can shed light on these old tales? Inquiring minds want to know...

Yum! Sounds like a blast. I look forward to hearing the details. R

Nice work. Maybe next time you'll climb it free Darin and I went left of your line on the fin: from a belay on a ledge below the left center of it we did a few unprotected face moves and then up and left to a crack near the left skyline. This connected with the left skyline of the fin briefly, then jogged back right just a bit into another crack. There was a long handish crack diagonalling up and right to a notch. Perhaps this is the crack you swung into up high. Like you, we stayed on the crest of the fin to within a few dozen yards of the summit. Sounds like you had a grand outing.

You can walk the cam up with you as you climb. Try that with a hex!

Excellent report. Bummer about the batteries. Welcome to CC!

Anyone interested in getting out today?

Lovely. A week ago I was trying to explain to a talented climber, who prefers to stick to crags, why I love the alpine. Your photos are one answer. Thanks for posting. Rad

Weekend Climberz is in the bugs so he's out this week. Wednesday is my anniversary so I'd be keen on going Thursday. Rad

Nice work. I'm glad to see you're getting Jim out beyond X38 sport clipping. Remind me to bring my pocket weedwhacker when we head out together. Cheers, Rad

Definitely what I'd recommend too.

The Middle Wall topo suggests not. I have TRd the the 11a MW crack after leading Robin's ramp. It's an awesome, if short, finger and hand crack. It looks like you can TR several other steep, hard lines from the top anchor of RR. Enjoy!

Nope. 6'1" ish. Back-step plus stem w/hands allowed a high step that got us to the jugs w/o having to crank on the fingertip slot. I didn't lead it, but the pro seemed pretty reasonable. If you mean the last pitch of Lovin' Arms we didn't get there this time - we rapped off after p3 because Fred was waiting for us.

10a is harder than 10c (P2 vs p3 on Davis Holland).

Saw this and thought Index fans might be interested. I don't have more info than what's here. Happy hunting. auction web page with maps etc 155. MT. INDEX RIVERSITES (SNOHOMISH CO., WA) 0.21 Acre. Residing right on the South Fork of the Skykomish River, this lot is located a few miles from the town of Index. The surrounding territory is made up of the Mount Baker Snoqualmie National Forest which offers some beautiful hiking and camping opportunities as well as stunning and picturesque landscape. The area is also known for its alpine lakes and exceptional recreational activities. The forest is one of the most frequently visited national forests in the entire country. The Skykomish River offers white water rafting adventures as well as many popular fishing areas. If you are searching for property that resides on a beautiful river, search no further! (APN 00526100506000) CASH OR TERMS – MINIMUM BID $2700

There is water running across rocks at various places, including 2/3 of the way up to Snow Dome from the lower glacier. That would still be 500 feet lower than the weather station. You may find something much closer. There is plenty of snow-free ground near the weather station now. We didn't go over there so I don't know if it is flat or if there is running water nearby. You can always melt snow. FYI, another way to melt snow is with solar power: bring large black garbage bags, lay them out, and place snow on them to melt in the sunshine. We know a group that spent the night up on the false summit as well 2 weeks ago. There is a flat spot that would be quite spectacular! Enjoy!

Climb: Olympus-standard route Date of Climb: 7/8/2006 Trip Report: Others have posted good reports lately so I'll be brief. 41 miles in 41 hours. The weather was perfect, the Hoh rainforest stunning, the trail conditions excellent (if long), the glacier soft but not sloppy, the crevasses mostly still closed, the rock on the 5.fun summit pyramid exposed and solid, and the rangers motherly. Details after photos... Friday 7/7 9:30pm Tell and I departed Hoh river trailhead. Rambled by headlamp on a clear night. We startled grazing elk several times - everyone jumped. Stopped around 12:30am (9.1 miles) near the ranger station and drifted into dreams under the stars. Started down the trail again at 7am. Arrived at Martin Creek (14.1 miles) at 10am to cache overnight gear on bear wires. Met the rangers at Glacier Meadows at 11am (17.4 miles). 'I'm very concerned about you guys starting up the glacier this late (the weather looks great and the days are long)... The snow is very soft, I hear (good because we don't have crampons)...I haven't been up there but...have you climbed before? (we rattle off a few alpine routes)... Do you have ropes? (we list our gear)...I'm not going to stop you but...I want to see you back here by sunset (sounds good to me). We left him standing there. The poor guy probably worried about us all day. We roped up on the glacier (probably not necessary as we never stepped over cracks over 2 feet wide). Climbed to Snow dome in blinding sunshine, stopping to refresh and rehydrate at water running water on rock halfway across the traverse toward snow dome. Crossed over Crystal pass, tramped up to the false summit, down 3rd class, up a short steep snow step with a clean run-out. Chose the 3rd class to 5.fun Western route up the summit pyramid. The 5.fun was on solid rock that will take whatever size gear you bring. Lounged on the summit in the sunshine from 5 to 6pm with no wind, unbelievable visibility, and no other parties on the entire upper mountain. We rapped back down off lovely gear left by parties from last weekend. The descent was like butter - boot skiing rocks! Checked in with the Glacier meadows rangers at 8:30pm (before sunset as promised). Twilight baptism in Martin Creek, dinner and bed. Frisky rodents jumped on my head at night, but otherwise we slept like the dead. Sunday we woke late and hiked out. Scored blueberries between the 12.4 mile site and the 10 mile mark. The snow was like soft-served icecream - crampons would be useless but self-arrest is still possible. Gear Notes: No stove, no fuel, no pot, no crampons, no tent. A few rock pieces in the 0.5 to 2 inch range to protect 40 feet of 5.6. 2 30m skinny ropes allow you to skip the poor intermediate anchor on the rap off the summit. Approach Notes: No need to ford any rivers. When the trail seems to end at a river crossing at mile 8 go left (North) 50 yeard to a tree crossing. Other crossings are obvious. We drove around via Olympia and Aberdeen to avoid ferries. It took less than 4 hours from trailhead back to Seattle.

I thought the gullies looked steep and ugly so I steered us up the buttress. Our route: Looking down the buttress: Upper slab:

Yes. I'll post the overlay later.

Excellent photos! I did it a few years ago and remember the lower/steeper part had enough protectable cracks and slingable horns and shrubs (at least the way we went - there are lots of ways to go). I seem to remember the upper part had some horizontal cracks up high but otherwise very little pro. However, there are nice ledges at the belays, and in that case YOU are the most secure part of the anchor. In this case you could hold a fall of a follower but not the leader. Also, it seems the slab angle is low enough that you could almost 'self-arrest' by lying flat on it. I almost dunked in the lake too, but not on purpose: I was walking near the edge and a huge piece of hard snow broke off (but remained intact), fell into the water, and rolled over with me on it. I did the log roller dance and jumped off fast without taking the plunge! I'd echo the suggestion to take crampons. We didn't have any and it made the glacier crossing the spiciest part of the day. Good job all around