Rad
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Posts posted by Rad
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Depends on what your weakness is.
Alpine rock is no harder than trad routes at your favorite cragging area, so if trad multipitch is your weak link work on it at these areas.
Getting to alpine routes is often half the fun and half the work. If you haven't spent time in the hills go do a bunch of the routes in the scramble book before doing 5th class climbs in the hills.
Then go for the routes mentioned above. Alternatively, just go for it.
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Oh hey, look, another Hood deaths thread has people talking out their ass way outside their area of expertise
bet you 5$ (us or canadian, yer call) that this one don't have the moxie to make it to 50+ pages like the last one!
That's because this time the game is over before the thread started: no survivors. Last time we all (I like to think) kept hoping to see good news and hear the survivor's tale.
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...simply stick with the original plan and descend the south-side route - storm or no storm.
Have you tried to head straight into 80+mph winds and driving snow on steep, unfamilar, and unstable terrain? Me either.
...I just want to be sure I survive my climbing experiences.You can go a long way by learning to read and heed the weather forecast.
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ru writing a book or something?
If you want to get into the heads of the deceased climbers go find their former partners and gather some stories of their other climbing adventures.
Your question seems a bit like asking experienced cube farm workers what they'd do (jump or wait) if they were on the 105th floor of Trade Tower 2 when a plane crashed into the 93rd and you knew from the news that the tower would fall and descent was impossible. Or what Scott Fisher would do high on '96 on Everest with a killer storm rising up to devour him. Actually, what all three did is call their loved ones.
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Not all storms are equal. This one had sustained winds in excess of 80mph up high with gusts over 90 mph for 6-7 days before the first break - then it slammed down hard again for the better part of another week.
If you don't have resources (fuel, warm gear) to wait it out then it's die now or die later. That's a tough choice that may have lead to the split of their party. We will never know.
And NO $!^%ing MLU is going to save your arse!
Sad, sad, sad. RIP.
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Thanks Mark.
That needs to be fixed soon as that route sees a LOT of traffic. It would be best if the developer would fix them...
Failing that, I'm working on a few routes in the area and could possible put in new Hilti KB3 3/8 stainless bolt(s) if needed, but I probably can't get out there until next week.
Please update this thread when bolts are fixed. Otherwise, someone should put a note at the base of the route warning people of the bolt status. Thanks.
And if you are philosophically opposed to bolts or maligned against x38 then feel free to post in one of the thousands of anti-bolt threads on this site.
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Yikes. Rocketing backward over a cliff sure sounds scary. Glad you're ok. Sounds like you just got a bad break, but your skills and stamina helped get you out in one piece. Give yourself some credit for that.
FWIW, bone breaks typically heal faster than soft tissue injuries and have fewer lingering bad affects. You'll be back at it someday if you want it enough.
Thanks for sharing.
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This is a fabulous shot. Thanks for posting.
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I still want to know why the mad bolter gets to be all nekid when everyone else has to wear full down suits. He must be breaking a sweat as he runs up and down the mountain.
I have the Hilti TE 6A and that thing is f'n heavy. I can't imagine shlepping it up the big E, but then the sherpas probably carried it 98% of the way.
What gets me is not the polypro but the bare hands on the rock. Brr!
Hey Rain, why don't you put your talk into action and go chop those things!
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Great to see you getting out Daddy-Dinka.
Mmmm - Primrose dihedrals look fabulous.
thanks for the pics
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been circulating on the interweb for a long time, but a fun read the first time through, if you've got lots and lots of time.
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Neurological circuits (both in your head and in your limbs) and musculature will be strengthened/reinforced in response to each specific challenge it is given. Train bicep power, get powerful biceps. Train calf endurance, get calf endurance. Train open hand contact strength gain open hand contact strength. Etc etc etc. Obviously stretching, rest, and working opposing muscles can help prevent injuries, and staying healthy is key as you get older like me.
With this in mind, let your climbing goals define your training. Want to run up 4000ft of 40 degree ice? Sign up for the Frieh school of pain. Want to boulder V7 on crimpy routes? Listen to Sol. Want to lead all the liebacks on Grand Wall? Lieback as much as possible and do weighted pullups. Want to do RAMROD? Get on the bleeping bike.
Sure, x-training can bring you some basic fitness if you're a couch potato, or hone your core and buns if you're stronger, but it probably won't be the most efficient path to your first 11c crimpy redpoint.
I used to think climbing harder routes was just about getting stronger. Now I've come to understand that everything, including strength, comes back to the mental aspect. Gullich illustrates this: "the hardest part of training is deciding to start at all". I'd add, the second hardest part is sticking with it.
Nice thread despite the advertisements. Thanks for sharing your tips.
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Don't worry. Obama should be gone in 7 yrs, 8 months, and 2 weeks.
sickie
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Cool. Yep, the NEB is a pretty physical route. More so if you get off route up high as we did. Nice work.
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Threxx,
You can expect a lot of snide comments on this forum, so if that's not your cup of tea best to check out now. That said, some will provide you with thoughtful advice.
Here's my 2 cents:
1 - If you have no experience on glaciers hiring a guide is a good way to go, particularly in August.
2 - Talk to your prospective guide about fitness. They can tell you where you should be. The level you need depends on how fast you plan to ascend (e.g. 1-3 days).
3 - You have to understand that Rainier is a big mtn and weather can ruin your plans any time of the year.
4 - If you are hell bent on a summit, don't want to hire a guide, and want to test your fitness go hike up Whitney in CA. It's a crowded walk-up with none of the snow, ice, glacier issues of Rainier.
5 - If you are motivated there's no reason why you can't achieve your goal.
Good luck.
Rad
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I see hogging the section of wall as the ettiquette issue here, not the chalk bag poaching.
I find people do a lot of staring at the wall, from close and far, but it doesn't bother me. I often have limited gym time and want to make the most of it. What usually works for me: make eye contact and use body gesture and/or words to ask if they're starting a route - if not then just jump in there. In a situation like you mentioned above, wait until 2nd fall and say, "mind if I try this one?" as you move to its start.
More problematic is when you have two or more people working a route, where one jumps in right after the other. Usually, I'll just move to a different section of wall.
Another challenging situation is when one or more routes traverse and cross each other - who has the right of way? There are no hard and fast rules. Treat others the way you would like to be treated and everyone should be happy. Bouldering can be a fun social scene with good positive energy. For solitude you may need to go elsewhere. Good luck.
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Then there are some crazy blank slabs, like the 10c under GM. Who can do that thing?
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glad you got the bag back and no blows were exchanged.
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When you put the draws back on Abo I'll gladly clip them and leave them there after the redpoint. The bolt left of the two finger pocket at the lower crux is a pain in the arse to clip. Wish they'd put it to the right of that pocket...maybe I just need to train harder, find a better sequence, or wear my roller skates.
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Insert "Whaa!" bulance photo
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Good Peregrine pic.
This should be pegged (or some other verb) with a clear title in he rock climbing forum.
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I remember climbing at Traprock CT, where you have to bring a separate rope to sling distant shrubs back from the edge of the cliff. Pain in the arse that, and certainly not less of an eyesore.
Similar situation for some routes at Mt Diablo in CA EXCEPT that the rock is sandstone. Net result = deep grooves in rock where anchor ropes and top ropes run. THAT is more irreversible damage than a bolt.
Like Bill says, different crags lend themselves to different styles. Index LTW could be trad only and no bolts, but there would be a lot fewer routes and you'd have to top out every time or leave gear behind.
BTW, your no bolt crag sounds like a concept that might fly for an article for Climbing. Get someone with a good sense of humor to write it.
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Cool linka Berdinka. I see it lists Prime Rib as 10c.
Thanks to all y'alls for the new routes and cleaning and refitting of old routes. I'll put Original on the list - it is such a striking line and the falls look totally clean.
cc.com crew to exit 32,38 this Thurs. pm?
in Climbing Partners
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Sounds great Jens. pm sent.