Rad
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Posts posted by Rad
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Ego boosting, but not in all cases.
For example, Negatherion, Overture, Architect Rally, and Primus all felt comparable to easy 11s at x32 and Index sport routes in the Country. Comparing sport to trad ratings is useless IMHO.
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Thanks JH,
I took my Hilti 36v battery (symptoms similar to your sawzall) to Batteries Plus. They looked at it and looked up the right cells for a rebuild and quoted me $230 for a rebuild. However, the tech said that rebuilding this exact battery was the final exam for battery cert program and it took him 8 hours to do it - and he'd rather not do mine because it's so old he is concerned we'd do a ton of work and it wouldn't work any better than now.
Either he's right (quite possible) or it's a cop out. I asked them to try reconditioning and they did at no charge, but no benefit. So I'll go back to pick it up at no charge. But I'm back to square one.
I can drill one hole per trip to the crag - makes you think carefully, but now I've decided where placements should go on a 30m bolted route so it would take 9 trips to the crag to complete the line!
Maybe I'll send it off to Primecell or wait to hear how yours goes. Please post. thks.
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20th down to U village around 47th.
2 good ones from E 10th to I5 around Howe (Cap hill).
A nice series of steep streets between I5 and Latona around 52nd to 60th.
I think there is a long stair set in Fremont but I am not sure where.
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Clever, but if you fall on that girth hitch it could slide on you (unlikely), and if it slides you could burn through your belay loop (even less likely). It would probably take a really big fall to do that. Cool idea.
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but then again, I don't send 11's or 12's either so what do I know.
Maybe you just need a thinner rope.
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I've been on skinny ropes a few times, and I've never worried about whether they'll hold a fall or not. What scares me most is lowering or working moves on a single line when the rope runs over an edge of any sort. Tension...SNAP! Aaaaahhhhh!!!!! Not sure if fatties are any better in those circumstances or if mantles are tough enough that I shouldn't worry about this too much.
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8.9 would scare me too. I've been told 9.9 is too phat. I was wondering about 9.2 - 9.4.
You're right that I should not blame the rope, but I want to have everything stacked in my favor.
And ropes are supposed to stretch - that's why we call them dynamic. Another concern is whether thinner ropes will work in the belay devices my partners carry.
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Looking to buy a lighter rope to save some weight on harder (for me) single pitch rock routes because I'm too lazy to train more.
Recommendations? How thin is too thin? Some ropes out there are ex$pen$ive (>$230)!
Thanks
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That summit is one of the best I've been on in WA(still have Chianti on the list).
If you boot ski down the scree it's wicked good fun. Just don't fall...
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Nice. Perseverance plus shorts over polypro (last shot)!
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OK, Ramuta-philes - please post his address or website. Tks.
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Classic. This thread should get some stars.
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Getting all the shit together to do it right has resulted in just an endless dribble of $$$$$......
True, but that can be said of most activities.
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Good data Dberdinka - welcome to the darkside!
It would be interesting to do your test with old school star drive or other bolts. The results might be quite shocking.
I have been able to over-torque the KB3 with a 10" handle on a socket wrench, and I know you're stronger than me. 20ftlbs is not that hard. I did pony up for a torque wrench (found one for $50) to check. Like you said, though, once you know how hard is right the torque wrench becomes superfluous.
I've borrowed a Yos hammer and that works great, but I find a standard claw is also useful for cleaning and is much lighter to carry around, and with a few more taps it gets the job done just fine. Yos might be the better choice for drilling by hand, but again, you have to carry its extra weight.
I've tried KB3 and Rawl 5 piece. The latter are a pain in the arse because the fall apart in my bag or elsewhere. The KB3 are pretty idiot-proof, and since I'm an idiot that's what I use. MEC sells them pretty cheap so there's no reason to buy them at Home Depot and risk that they aren't tested to the same specs. Stainless is the way to go unless you want rust.
Hopefully the routes you put up will become popular, so it's worth a little extra effort to do things right the first time. Poor bolt placement or sketchy bolts are annoying on any route.
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Learn to be flexible but safe. No cute acronyms will save you if you don't set a solid anchor and attach to it properly.
As long as the anchor is bomber, and you are tied into it, then you'll be fine. It may be uncomfortable if your fat friends hang directly on you, but unless you let go of your brakehand no one will die.
Sitting off to the side is fine, but think about what will happen when the climber falls. You may get pulled off your perch and swing and dangle over the edge. You might get scraped legs (unless wearing shorts over polypro) but you should be fine as long as you don't let go of the brakehand and drop your climber. And if you have a grigri even that doesn't matter. I would recommend sitting rather than standing, but these are things to experiment with in the field.
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Sounds great Jens. pm sent.
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Depends on what your weakness is.
Alpine rock is no harder than trad routes at your favorite cragging area, so if trad multipitch is your weak link work on it at these areas.
Getting to alpine routes is often half the fun and half the work. If you haven't spent time in the hills go do a bunch of the routes in the scramble book before doing 5th class climbs in the hills.
Then go for the routes mentioned above. Alternatively, just go for it.
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Oh hey, look, another Hood deaths thread has people talking out their ass way outside their area of expertise
bet you 5$ (us or canadian, yer call) that this one don't have the moxie to make it to 50+ pages like the last one!
That's because this time the game is over before the thread started: no survivors. Last time we all (I like to think) kept hoping to see good news and hear the survivor's tale.
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...simply stick with the original plan and descend the south-side route - storm or no storm.
Have you tried to head straight into 80+mph winds and driving snow on steep, unfamilar, and unstable terrain? Me either.
...I just want to be sure I survive my climbing experiences.You can go a long way by learning to read and heed the weather forecast.
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ru writing a book or something?
If you want to get into the heads of the deceased climbers go find their former partners and gather some stories of their other climbing adventures.
Your question seems a bit like asking experienced cube farm workers what they'd do (jump or wait) if they were on the 105th floor of Trade Tower 2 when a plane crashed into the 93rd and you knew from the news that the tower would fall and descent was impossible. Or what Scott Fisher would do high on '96 on Everest with a killer storm rising up to devour him. Actually, what all three did is call their loved ones.
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Not all storms are equal. This one had sustained winds in excess of 80mph up high with gusts over 90 mph for 6-7 days before the first break - then it slammed down hard again for the better part of another week.
If you don't have resources (fuel, warm gear) to wait it out then it's die now or die later. That's a tough choice that may have lead to the split of their party. We will never know.
And NO $!^%ing MLU is going to save your arse!
Sad, sad, sad. RIP.
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Thanks Mark.
That needs to be fixed soon as that route sees a LOT of traffic. It would be best if the developer would fix them...
Failing that, I'm working on a few routes in the area and could possible put in new Hilti KB3 3/8 stainless bolt(s) if needed, but I probably can't get out there until next week.
Please update this thread when bolts are fixed. Otherwise, someone should put a note at the base of the route warning people of the bolt status. Thanks.
And if you are philosophically opposed to bolts or maligned against x38 then feel free to post in one of the thousands of anti-bolt threads on this site.
Whats your opinion of the sport grades at Exit 38?
in Climber's Board
Posted
How about comparing ratings among gyms? Pretty wide range there...