Rad
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Posts posted by Rad
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One man gathers what another man spills....
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so i felt it was a calculated risk
Life without risk is like pancakes without syrup: not as sweet!
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quote=fheimerd]We where wondering who gets on a big ridge climb in the afternoon as clouds are beginning to build. Only the bold I dare say, only the bold.
Some might choose other adjectives.
I, for one, am very glad that your creativity in staying warm and getting off safely trumped your (insert adjective) decision to head up a big alpine ridge into the teeth of a gathering storm without protective gear. In any case, it sounds like you have a firm grasp of all the factors that contributed to the situation so you don't need Monday morning QBs. Besides, I've certainly done foolish things and been spanked by Mother Nature.
Thank you, sir, may I have another!?
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Idea to keep gym rats in the gym: send them out with Ivan for their first alpine outing. The resulting sufferfest will send them back indoors faster than a flaring offwidth.
This is not really a new idea. Layton did it to MrE on E Mox. Worked him so good the poor guy moved to a warm, sunny, brush-free state and hasn't looked back.
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You could down lead the easy 5th class bit. It would take longer but then you could go with a 30m rope.
My partner and I took 2 30m 8mm ropes. They were light and did the trick - easy to split between two packs too.
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no stll there txtng u 4 2 rescu plz
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When I did it two years ago we got to Glacier Meadows on a bluebird day at 11am or so and the rangers tried to convince us not to go up. "It's too warm, too soft, too late, you don't have enough gear, are you sure you're experienced?" We smiled, told them some routes we'd done elsewhere, and headed for the glacier. We had the entire upper mountain to ourselves on a perfect day.
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Nice alpine adventure. Later in the season it is much more straightforward, and perhaps more boring.
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I really thought about the roof to start P3, it didn't look very hard but it did look unprotectable.
It's not bad at all. You get a good cam in under the roof before you start. When you commit to the undercling the piece is near your face. In two steps you've got your feet on the crystals and are turning the corner onto easier ground, so it works out fine. If you like underclings check out the Sail Flake on Grand Wall. It's amazing!
I agree with you that p2 is the most strenuous and the two 10c pitches feel easier. The first time I was on that route I was sweating buckets too! Cloudy days have their advantages.
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Quite a booty haul!
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perhaps this thread should move 2 spray so the survivors, family, and friends don't stumble on this garbage...
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Das Toof is not bad, though short and harder than you requested.
Most things I know off I90 and 2 are fairly chossy, but some are good training workouts: Red mtn, Chair, Kaleetan, Thompson, Baring.
Wait a few weeks and do some longer, moderate alpine outings that require roping up:
N face Vesper.
W face Stuart.
Don't forget to have fun on the training outings too!
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Cell phones, ice axes, ropes, and wool knickers are all just tools people have used in the mountains. Each has its uses and limitations, but none can replace good judgment. Suggesting one tool, whether a cell phone or anything else, can save the day is just plain stupid.
I like the Shackleton reference above because it provides an amazing example of how men could, through wit and will, survive some of the most atrocious conditions imaginable for over a year. They didn't need a cell phone, and no one died.
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I have a Hilti TE4 (I think that's the number). I paid $260 for one in good shape with an extra battery and a few bits.
I bought it used and had the owner charge it so we could test it. I brought over a granite stone and we drilled 11 3/8" 5 inch deep holes before the battery went into protection mode halfway through the 12th. That's about the same as what I'd been getting when borrowing Alex's hilti when his battery was working. If the battery is crappy you get fewer holes. If the bit is old you get fewer holes.
I'd echo what Bill says: if you don't expect to drill a lot of holes just borrow someone else's drill and buy them some bits and bolts and hangers, which also cost $$$. If you're in Seattle and want access to one send me a pm.
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Thanks J. Nice job on backbone.
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Bump. Where does one find topos for these routes?
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I can easily think of a dozen husbands and dads on this site who still climb. I have a wife and 3 kids (0.1, 3, and 4.5) and probably climb more now than I ever have, though overnight alpine trips are harder to justify. There is hope for you yet.
If your marriage is based on a relationship with solid trust, respect, consideration, and communication you should be ok. If not, you're in for trouble regardless of whether climbing is part of the picture.
Finally, don't be someone who says "I can't FIND the time", or "I don't HAVE time to do X, Y, or Z". What these people are really saying is that they don't MAKE time or CHOOSE TO SPEND their time doing X, Y, or Z.
"The bed that you make is the one that you will lie in" Dire Straits
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Would have been even better if they used the bra to short haul her off the ledge...
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Sports bra saves U.S. hiker trapped in Alps
Stranded after fall, plucky climber attracts lumberjacks with undergarment
Jessica Bruinsma, shown here in an undated photo, spent 70 hours on a ledge after a fall while hiking in the German Alps.
BERLIN - An American hiker stranded in the Bavarian Alps for nearly three days was rescued after using her sports bra as a signal, police in southern Germany said Monday.
Berchtesgaden police officer Lorenz Rasp said that he helped lift 24-year-old Jessica Bruinsma of Colorado to safety by helicopter on Thursday after she attracted the attention of lumberjacks by attaching her sports bra to a cable used to move timber down the mountain.
"She's a very smart girl, and she acted very resourcefully," said Rasp. "She kept her shirt and jacket for warmth, but thought the sports bra could work as a signal."
An Alpine rescue team, including five helicopters and 80 emergency workers, had been searching for Bruinsma since she went missing June 16 after losing her way in bad weather while hiking with a friend near the Austrian border.
Repairman sees bra
She fell about 15 feet to a rocky overhang, where she spent the next 70 hours on the narrow ledge, sustained by water that she found by breaking into a supply box on the ledge.
She badly bruised a leg and dislocated a shoulder in the fall, and the cliff was too isolated for her to climb free, Rasp said.
Rasp said the cable was only within reach because the timber transport system was out of service. When a repairman restored the line on Thursday, the cable car started moving up the mountain and Bruinsma's bra reached the worker at the base. He knew of the missing hiker and immediately called police.
Woman waves to rescuers
Rasp said his team followed the cable line up the cliffside in a helicopter and found Bruinsma standing on the ledge, waving with her good arm. After circling once, they lowered a winch to Bruinsma and lifted her aboard.
"She did so well because she is in very good shape," Rasp said. "She has been training for a marathon — her goal is to finish in 3 hours and 10 minutes."
Bruinsma told Rasp that she has scrapped plans to stay in Berchtesgaden to learn German and plans to return home to Colorado Springs with her parents. He said she still plans to run the marathon, if she recovers in time to keep training.
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Bill,
You are sick, but that's why we like you.
Many routes at Pinnacles were put in ground up, drilled by hand on hooks. You could try ground up on hooks for extra spice. Or perhaps go up the backside and then lower down the frontside with your drill for the quickie.
I'll be watching on google earth, the 0.001M resolution version, to properly time my pebble poaching pinkpoint!
R
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Interesting rock. Looks a bit like Pinnacles Natl Monument.
Hope those bolts are long glue-ins!
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Free the mind and the body will follow.Swim Icicle at high water or hike to a bridge.
That could be interesting this time of year...
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From Seattle to the Aleutian islands by human power
An amazing trip that makes N cascade approaches sound pretty tame.
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Yikes! I'm sending you non-denominational prayers, Dane.
Sobo, it sounds like you did an amazing job as crash pad and first-responder! You can belay for me any time.
Med bills are the fastest route to bankruptcy known. Let's hope our next prez will figure out a way to make sure everyone gets covered. BTW, no insurance company pays all of your bills. They may pay 50%. You shouldn't pay more than them...
A good friend of mine was first on the scene of a nasty accident at one of Trapp rock crags in CT. The leader was off route, ran it out past small stopper over small roof above a ledge, fell, somehow flipped, clipped hit on ledge on the way down, and continued on another 10 ft down. He had no helmet on and his head was cracked open like an egg. His belayer (who had done nothing wrong) completely freaked and was running down the trail for help when he ran into my friend and her partner. The partner ran down for help and my friend and the belayer went back up. It was a gruesome scene. At least he was killed instantly. I don't know enough to know if a helmet would have saved his life, and I'm glad I didn't learn more details...
Sadly, bad shite can happen to good people.
Climbing before Marriage
in Spray
Posted
Perhaps that second pic is not such a good way to get your mate to 'put out'.