Rad
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Posts posted by Rad
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A few years back a man got arrested for shooting a peregrine and he contested the fine. At his hearing, he told the judge he did it because his family was poor and they needed food. The judge let him off with a warning and community service. When the hearing ended, the judge leaned over to the man and asked, "So I'm just curious, what does Peregrine taste like?". The man replied, "Oh, almost as sweet as Spotted Owl but more meaty and tough like Bald Eagle".
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Was there this morning climbing Just Dessert and Late for Dinner and mama falcon was swirling and talking. She didn't dive at us, but she checked us out until she decided we weren't getting closer to her.
It would probably be best to stay off the following climbs until July - some of these are quite popular:
Jiffy Pop.
Rat Face.
I can Fly.
Underground Economy (very popular 5.9).
Overture (A GREAT CLIMB BTW).
Underture.
Won't Get Fooled Again.
Thanks.
Rad
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If you want views take him up the Sahale arm.
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All time best:
That guy looks a lot like my former landlord, except he was an ass.
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How about posting links to your favorite helmet? Mine is in serious need of an update.
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Since this thread started I got a 9.5 mammut, which I will probably only use for sport onsight or redpoint attempts. Thanks for all your thoughtful responses.
In truth, I'm just responding to peer pressure to look cool.
It's probably a lost cause because I still wear my helmet on most leads.
I'm guessing that's why you haven't seen pics of me on the cover of Climbing Magazine yet...
Fortunately, my wife likes skinny.
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Don't worry so much about the ratings. Good routes are good fun and bad routes are crappy regardless of what people have rated them.
Think less, climb more.
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How about comparing ratings among gyms? Pretty wide range there...
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Ego boosting, but not in all cases.
For example, Negatherion, Overture, Architect Rally, and Primus all felt comparable to easy 11s at x32 and Index sport routes in the Country. Comparing sport to trad ratings is useless IMHO.
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Thanks JH,
I took my Hilti 36v battery (symptoms similar to your sawzall) to Batteries Plus. They looked at it and looked up the right cells for a rebuild and quoted me $230 for a rebuild. However, the tech said that rebuilding this exact battery was the final exam for battery cert program and it took him 8 hours to do it - and he'd rather not do mine because it's so old he is concerned we'd do a ton of work and it wouldn't work any better than now.
Either he's right (quite possible) or it's a cop out. I asked them to try reconditioning and they did at no charge, but no benefit. So I'll go back to pick it up at no charge. But I'm back to square one.
I can drill one hole per trip to the crag - makes you think carefully, but now I've decided where placements should go on a 30m bolted route so it would take 9 trips to the crag to complete the line!
Maybe I'll send it off to Primecell or wait to hear how yours goes. Please post. thks.
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20th down to U village around 47th.
2 good ones from E 10th to I5 around Howe (Cap hill).
A nice series of steep streets between I5 and Latona around 52nd to 60th.
I think there is a long stair set in Fremont but I am not sure where.
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Clever, but if you fall on that girth hitch it could slide on you (unlikely), and if it slides you could burn through your belay loop (even less likely). It would probably take a really big fall to do that. Cool idea.
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but then again, I don't send 11's or 12's either so what do I know.
Maybe you just need a thinner rope.
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I've been on skinny ropes a few times, and I've never worried about whether they'll hold a fall or not. What scares me most is lowering or working moves on a single line when the rope runs over an edge of any sort. Tension...SNAP! Aaaaahhhhh!!!!! Not sure if fatties are any better in those circumstances or if mantles are tough enough that I shouldn't worry about this too much.
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8.9 would scare me too. I've been told 9.9 is too phat. I was wondering about 9.2 - 9.4.
You're right that I should not blame the rope, but I want to have everything stacked in my favor.
And ropes are supposed to stretch - that's why we call them dynamic. Another concern is whether thinner ropes will work in the belay devices my partners carry.
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Looking to buy a lighter rope to save some weight on harder (for me) single pitch rock routes because I'm too lazy to train more.
Recommendations? How thin is too thin? Some ropes out there are ex$pen$ive (>$230)!
Thanks
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That summit is one of the best I've been on in WA(still have Chianti on the list).
If you boot ski down the scree it's wicked good fun. Just don't fall...
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Nice. Perseverance plus shorts over polypro (last shot)!
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OK, Ramuta-philes - please post his address or website. Tks.
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Classic. This thread should get some stars.
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Getting all the shit together to do it right has resulted in just an endless dribble of $$$$$......
True, but that can be said of most activities.
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Good data Dberdinka - welcome to the darkside!
It would be interesting to do your test with old school star drive or other bolts. The results might be quite shocking.
I have been able to over-torque the KB3 with a 10" handle on a socket wrench, and I know you're stronger than me. 20ftlbs is not that hard. I did pony up for a torque wrench (found one for $50) to check. Like you said, though, once you know how hard is right the torque wrench becomes superfluous.
I've borrowed a Yos hammer and that works great, but I find a standard claw is also useful for cleaning and is much lighter to carry around, and with a few more taps it gets the job done just fine. Yos might be the better choice for drilling by hand, but again, you have to carry its extra weight.
I've tried KB3 and Rawl 5 piece. The latter are a pain in the arse because the fall apart in my bag or elsewhere. The KB3 are pretty idiot-proof, and since I'm an idiot that's what I use. MEC sells them pretty cheap so there's no reason to buy them at Home Depot and risk that they aren't tested to the same specs. Stainless is the way to go unless you want rust.
Hopefully the routes you put up will become popular, so it's worth a little extra effort to do things right the first time. Poor bolt placement or sketchy bolts are annoying on any route.
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Learn to be flexible but safe. No cute acronyms will save you if you don't set a solid anchor and attach to it properly.
As long as the anchor is bomber, and you are tied into it, then you'll be fine. It may be uncomfortable if your fat friends hang directly on you, but unless you let go of your brakehand no one will die.
Sitting off to the side is fine, but think about what will happen when the climber falls. You may get pulled off your perch and swing and dangle over the edge. You might get scraped legs (unless wearing shorts over polypro) but you should be fine as long as you don't let go of the brakehand and drop your climber. And if you have a grigri even that doesn't matter. I would recommend sitting rather than standing, but these are things to experiment with in the field.
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More work for NPS NOCA's Kelly Bush
in Climber's Board
Posted
Scary. Glad only minor injuries resulted.
Perhaps you should send your version directly to Kelly Bush. PM me if you need her email address, but I think you can find it on the public NOCA website.
BTW, the use of the word, "mountaineers" is unfortunate, because it unintentionally mirros the name of the organization. Perhaps simply, "climbers" would have been better.