Rad
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Posts posted by Rad
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Great pic Brandon!
without the muck this place would be pretty sterile!I agree 100%.
Cool TR and cute baby! Looks like he would work well to protect that chimney pitch.Actually, the chimney has a crack in the back that takes #2 camalots down low and 0.5 camalots up high.
You and Brandon had the right idea about waiting until the afternoon to climb this thing. It is cold up there an doesn't get much sun at all, especially not until late afternoon.Sounds good, though we actually started up around 9:30am. We were just slow. Anyway, we didn't find it cold at all up there.
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Nice adventure. My first (and only) trip up the W ridge was a marathon outing as well, starting at 5:00am from camp below Ingalls lake and returning to the same spot the following 2am.
We learned a lot of lessons on that outing. I look forward to going back at some point.
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Trip: Colchuck Balanced Rock - West Face - first tapeless one shoe Tuesday dads doggin ascent
Date: 8/12/2008
Trip Report:
Parenthood requires more balance than a Darrington slab, but the rewards are tremendous and I have no regrets. In June we had our third child, a sweet baby boy, and the sleepless cycle has started anew. I love the mountains, but it’s hard to justify leaving my wife to handle all three kids while I traipse around the hills. This unsupported hip belay is probably harder than CBR!
So this year I’ve turned into a skinny sport climber, spending more time in the gym than on real rock, and more time clipping bolts than placing gear.
Still, I do have modest alpine dreams to pursue, and as I turned 40 in March I know I’d better not let them sit on the shelf too long. Thankfully, my wife understands that my spirits are lifted by climbing in ways that I don’t find in other activities, and she is very supportive. So when Brandan called and offered a chance to camp at Colchuck Lake and climb CBR, which has long been on my list, I asked for and was granted a highly prized overnight pass. Brandon is a new father himself, so he understands the balancing act of fatherhood.
Car-to-car pushes in recent years have been great, but I find their hurried pace makes it more difficult to tune in to the natural world. I was really looking forward to spending the time in the mountains hiking, swimming, and camping on this trip.
Our permit was for August 10th, 11th, and 12th, but I could only go for night of the 11th. Poor Brandon had to go to Ltown on the morning of the 10th to get our permit, even though we wouldn’t set foot on the trail until the following afternoon. For that, and for applying and getting the permits in the first place, I let him have his pick of pitches. We decided to lead in blocks: he would lead everything up to and including the enduro corner, and I would lead everything above that.
We met up on Monday, packed more gear than I’ve taken on any route, heeding advice from Layton and others.
We hiked up to Colchuck Lake on a perfect afternoon and found the water irresistable.
The diving judges were not kind: legs apart (-0.5), feet not pointed (-0.5), not vertical (-1.0), large splash (-1.0), and terrible suit (-1.5). Too bad they don't grade satisfaction.
Perhaps the best campsite in the cascades.
Kaleidoscope reflections at sunset.
It was a perfect temperature and there were almost no bugs. I saw one shooting star but opted to sleep instead of staying up to watch the Leonid meteor shower. This would be my first night of uninterrupted sleep since June 4th.
The next morning we hiked around the lake and made our way up the gully to the base of the route. There is water in the lower gully but only hard snow after that. The bush whacking was really quite minimal.
We both decided to go tapeless, which went fine except I got just enough small scrapes to make co-workers think I’d been in a cat fight. After a scramble and short mid-fifth pitch we started up the business. The 10+ crack is short and sweet.
The 5.9 step across and double cracks were sweet. Here is an obligatory shot of the classic enduro corner. It is certainly spectacular and sustained. Sadly, we both hung at one wet spot. Stronger climbers will jam harder and go right past without blinking. The rest of the route was dry.
The roof was a delight, though I was unable to free the middle section. I’ll place some of the blame on my shoe, which had a blowout on the 10+ pitch. I'd been putting off doing a resole and would now pay dearly for it. The rubber would stick on the rock but my shoe would roll off of it, making smearing impossible.
Thankfully, the gear is good all the way.
Some call this 5.9 the best pitch on the route. It was fun, but too short and too sharp for me to rate it at the top. It does have a decent rest mid-pitch to break out the camera and snap a picture.
The dreaded chimney is really not as heinous as many would have you believe. In fact, I thought it was definitely the best pitch on the entire route. Maybe I was just stoked to get this clean onsight after dogging on the harder pitches down low.
It is fabulously exposed, has challenging moves that require some creativity and technique, and it is highly varied, going from crack to face to blocks to chimney to face to crack to blocks to chimney to face all in about 100ft. Where else will you do a semi-inverted knee-jam above solid gear while pulling on a juggy flake? Make sure to save one large piece (#3 or #4 camalot or a #2 (not as good)) for the upper chimney.
We had the entire formation to ourselves, so I took the opportunity to trundle two death blocks at the start of the chimney.
The alpine flowers were in fine form on the upper reaches of the formation.
I switched to tennis shoes for the last lead and got one last exposed face move onto this block, protected by a tied off chickenhead. It was a perfect ending to an excellent day.
The rap and descent at sunset were very straightforward.
We managed to get a little deeper into the greenery on the hike out. It’s not a true adventure until you’re thrashing through the brush in the dark.
Still, we were never lost and never felt too hurried or desperate. We got back to the car too late for Heidel Burgers, too late for gas, and too late to score grub at Safeway.
We even decided to forgo the celebratory beers for fear of falling asleep on the drive home.
I thought I might run out of gas heading West, but managed to avoid a total epic by driving 55mph and shifting to neutral on all the downhills. Tragedy narrowly averted.
Home again at 3:30am. Off to work at 7am for an important meeting, but not before holding my son (and changing his diaper).
MANY THANKS TO BRANDON for being great company, a great partner, providing the permits, and patiently waiting for my slow ass on the approach. Don't underestimate the cardio components of this trip when you train for it.
I look forward to doing this route again at some point, preferably with two intact shoes!
Meanwhile, I'll enjoy more of this:
Gear Notes:
We took doubles to #3 camalot, one #4 camalot, and triples of #1 and #2 camalots. We used it all, but it sure seemed like a lot of crap to carry.
Many thanks to numerous cc.com posters for providing a plethora of useful beta. This site does have some good material if you're willing to wade through the muck.
Approach Notes:
Book and Cc.com descriptions are good. Follow your nose. It always knows.
Go late in the year to maximize your chances of finding the enduro corner and huge roof dry enough for free climbing.
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First 5 feet of CBR?
Nice work ape man.
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Not in Oregon:
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park at REI, shop at FF.
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On a related topic…
Is Bicycling to Bellingham completely independent of Insomnia?
Good question. I tried to climb B to B on Friday, and since looked at the guide (old Bruce version).
Here is my assessment:
There are three routes/variations right of Insomnia.
They are:
1 - B to B. This starts in the hand crack (shared with Insomnia), goes up two bolts, veers slightly right into a 5.easy crack up high, and traverses right under the roof, clips a bolt at the lip of the roof, and goes to the chains. The very last moves under the roof that are the crux and the rest is much easier.
2 - Start at the anchor at the base of Insomnia, start up on a slanting chossy band, climb straight up quite soon on some highly textured black rock with few features (5.10 something) past two bolts, continue up past the left edge of a giant flake (#3 camalot at its top works here), clip one more bolt, place one piece (#1 camalot) in the upper crack, traverse right under the roof (joins B to B here), clip bolt at roof lip, up to chains. This is a fun climb that is more varied and runout than other routes in this area, and I thought that was a nice change. The moves under the roof are not the crux.
3 - Start as for 2 but keep diagonalling right on the crappy band (don't fall here as pro is not available), pass a small tree/bush (sling or you are looking at groundfall), over a small roof past two bolts, up the face with 1.5"-2" gear in a shallow crack, come straight up to the final roof-lip bolt (join 1 and 2 here), and up to the chains.
2 and 3 are not in the old addition of the NB guide.
I climbed 2, sort of, and it was pretty fun. I followed what seemed the natural line for 2, which was diagonalling right on the ramp and then up onto the face. The problem was that this left me traversing back to the 2nd bolt, making 5.10 moves and looking at a fall that would have dropped me onto the broken rock below.
If you know who put in the bolts please send me a pm as I have a question.
WARNING! There is a giant block that you layback on the left route. When my partner was following I noticed the block rocks as he pulled on it. This block is 4' x 6' x 1' and it seems to only be held in place by a small corner down and right. It would be REALLY bad if this comes off while people are on the route. It would also likely obliterate several bolts and much of the route(s) below.
FYI, you can link the lower approach pitch with any of the upper routes, but consider using long slings to manage ropedrag.
You can rap to the ground with a single 60m rope from the chains.
Go get some.
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I don't trust ratings one bit once they obtain a + or a "offwidth" classification. We need to switch to the euro (severity) scale!
In Yosemite the words to fear are "squeeze" and "slot"
Ericandlucie thanks for the beta/report. Were the bugs bad?
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Matt,
..can’t somebody with basic common sense and a minimal foundation go out and enjoy the hills?Absolutely! There is no certification required to play outside.
That said, different people learn in different ways. Some learn best by reading, others by watching, others by doing etc. Moreover, people will have different comfort zones that determine how fast they are willing to push their own boundaries.
Each must find his/her own way with a little help from their friends.
Glad to see you're getting out on the rock again.
Rad
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You should be fine. There will be a lot of trails near the lunch counter as people explore to find campsites there. Just go uphill and you'll soon be past them.
Here are a few suggestions, meant kindly:
- Head up until there is no more up.
- Find the path of least resistance between the face to the East and the steep slope to the West. This path is likely a well-worn boot pack.
- Take a compass just in case the clouds move in.
- Take a GPS if that will ease your mind, but you really don't need it and it will frequently remind you how little you have traveled since you last checked it.
-Pay attention to the weather forecast and consider changing your plans if a storm is coming.
-Glissade when you can, but take the crampons off as they can do serious damage to you and your clothes. BTW, glissading is sliding downhill on your butt while whooping for joy.
- It will probably take you much longer to ascend the last 2000 feet than the first 2000 feet on summit day due to the elevation. Plan accordingly.
I don't mean to sound trite. You should be perfectly fine. That said, this is the second biggest mountain in WA (almost 12, 500) and it can be dangerous if the weather turns on you.
Have a great time.
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Great TR. Please post the next adventure.
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Bummer. You should probably be fine eventually, but it will take some time.
I had an AC separation back in 2001 diving for a disc in an ultimate tourney in HI. I got a big natural dose of adrenaline and a big dose of pain. I thought it was dislocated but it wasn't.
Recovery and prognosis depends on how severe it is. They are divided into classes 1-5. Mine was class 3 (completely severed two sets of ligaments, but I don't recall class defns, check webmd.com). Class 4 or 5 may require surgery. An X-ray will tell what you have.
I had immobilization and pain killers and anti-inflammatories for about 4 weeks. PT and anti-inflammatories after that. I was climbing gently (no gastons or hard pulls) within a few months. Playing disc about the same time. It was nearly a year before I could do regular pushups as that seemed to press in all the wrong directions. I bet you will be able to climb before you can kayak.
The ligaments (severed in my case) don't regrow. Your body adjusts to compensate, which is why PT is important. I did have a curious bump from the displaced clavicle, and that went down a bit over time. I have no long term pain or mobility loss or consequences that I can tell.
Talk to your doc and PT and see what they say. Good luck.
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Great job. We all look forward to more pics.
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Approximate times to a few trailheads:
45 minutes: Northbend (exit 32 and 38). Mostly sport, some trad.
75 minutes: Index town wall. Mostly trad, some sport.
90 minutes: Nason Ridge. Sport.
120-150 minutes: Darrington, Leavenworth, Erie. Sport and trad.
140-200 minutes: Washington Pass, Vantage, Tieton, numerous alpine backcountry. Mostly trad, some sport.
200-240 minutes: Squamish BC. Sport and trad.
Others can comment on ice.
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DPS, I've only met you once but appreciate your positive energy and good attitude. I believe that we get what we give, and if you give smiles and kind words and good conversation you should should be repaid with the same...at least from me and many here.
Maybe another lesson you can help modern society learn is that good things can come to those who SLOOOOW DOOOOWN!!!!
Don't worry Ivan, you're already immortal on the CC interweb!
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Went to Nevermind today. We could not discern any damage to the routes in question (climbed SS, and looked carefully at the lower sxns of other two) and there was no obvious pile of rubble at the base to suggest anything bad happened.
SS is definitely going to be harder when (not if) that undercling flake eventually cuts loose.
Also, the jug at the first clip of the 10a is rattly. Not sure if it was before or not.
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Next time pack the wing suit:
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Yikes! A few years ago the start for Steep Street and Under Arrest changed substantially when a large block (3' x 3' x 2') fell off the wall. Now you step up into a committing undercling on a fin/flake that looks like if could pop off pretty easily.
There will probably be more there. Don't like the current routes? Just wait a few months and check back to see if they have changed.
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Bump.
Anyone been out here this summer?
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This is what I use:
There are many other ones that can work.
Note: you can find the same bolts at big box hardware stores, and might be tempted to get them as they are cheaper. I've been told that the more expensive ones are individually tested/checked and getting the hardware stores ones is more risky.
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Great job. Thanks for posting.
Your nice pics suggest this route is more solid than I had been lead to believe.
Welcome to CC!
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E ledges beta:
Rap until you it get to a cairn at a good ledge. Last time we didn't go far enough and had to go back and do more raps.
A rope really won't help you on the E ledges (other than for the raps) as there isn't really anywhere to place gear so put it away after the raps.
I'd recommend a slightly rising traverse on the path of least resistance across the ledges. This will bring you out right at the top of the gully. If you get to the loose gully at the end of the traverse don't climb in it. Rock on the right side of it is more solid.
You may feel more comfortable with your rock shoes on, but it's certainly not required. Just keep your head about you and you'll be perfectly fine.
Finally, start early enough that you're not hurried on the E ledges or traversing them for the first time in the dark.
Have fun!
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Get up early and wait in line at the station. Be flexible with your backcountry plans. You might get in that way.
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Don't worry Gene, you can Cinch my Edelweiss any time.
When we last spoke you were off to sit in a tent in the rain on a foggy glacier with a bunch of hyperactive toddlers. How did that go?
question for climbers
in Climber's Board
Posted
You could post in the partners forum and roll the dice.
If you're willing to pay for gas $ and act as belay slave people will bite.