Rad
-
Posts
2925 -
Joined
-
Days Won
25
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Rad
-
-
Wow, this is reading like a Jerry Springer transcript.
That's about right, minus the ugly audience chicks flashing their boobs, thank goodness. I kept seeing this as the current thread but hadn't clicked on it in a few days. This is out of control. Certainly made me laugh.
Just don't die on us out there Josh, you're the Sanjaya of CC.com and we're rooting for you.
-
to limit them because of a fear of what MIGHT happen seems perhaps a bit unfair? if they are really into it, and love it, and beg for it, then i say you gotta support them. barring injury and pain of course; then some intervention would be called for.
So are you supposed to wait until after a serious injury to intervene? That doesn't seem like the best strategy. Bug and Mythos have good points. As a climber yourself, at least you can help them adopt practices that may minimize the chance of finger and other injuries. It's encouraging that you're being mindful of these issues now. Good luck. Many will judge you no matter what path you choose. IMHO, the most important people to answer to will be your kids themselves years from now.
-
-
Well, I'll take the opposite view and suggest this is headed for classic status. A few sunny ascents will clean it up and lessen the intimidating nature of these clouds-brewing photos.
This looks like a far more interesting route than either the Girth (which I haven't done but seems like a long approach for a short section of real climbing) and the N ridge, which we know is endless simul climbing for most parties.
It doesn't sound like any bolts are needed, unless you want to bolt anchors so the route can be rapped instead of having to continue to the summit.
I would be inclined to respect the 11 rating as as these kids easily hike hard 11s North, South, East, and West.
-
There is some bouldering near Berzerkely. Mt Diablo has a few sandstone crags, and there are a variety of other sandstone crags around the southern peninsula. The great climbing (Yosemite, Tahoe, Lovers Leap, Tuolumne, Bishop, Alpine routes, etc) are all in the Sierras. In theory these are 3-4 hrs, but in practice you have to leave and return at odd hours to avoid horrendous traffic. I was happy to live there for a while but glad to leave too. Pinnacles Natl Mnmt is about 3 hrs south of Berkeley, and I enjoyed climbing there.
-
On CC.com, to spray is to unleash your inner internet id.
-
Cool pics. Makes the impact of a few 3/8 inch bolts look pretty inconsequential.
Dynamite is aid.
-
I'll echo the goatboy:
Most people only stop and belay a few pitches on the full N ridge (2 low on the lower NR, 2 at the gendarme, and one up higher). The rest is 4th class to 5.6 or 5.7, and this is where simulclimbing swiftly and safely is very helpful. It may be worthwhile to practice or at least talk about simulclimbing with your partner.
There should be water running near the base of the lower NR, and there should be snow near the top of the Cascadian. In between is a crapshoot. 2-3 liters should be ample, but even that sounds awfully heavy. Fast and light certainly has advantages.
Finally, WATCH the weather forecast. It can snow up there any time of year.
Enjoy!
-
Now that you have the anchor you might as well put in several bolts and do the FA on this RAD sport line!
-
This is like debating whether a climb should be old school 5.9 or 5.10a or sport wimp 5.10c.
At the end of the day the climb is what it is, regardless of grade or style. Each route, thankfully, is unique and special.
Now get the Yosemite hammer to hug the hilti and be done with it.
-
so my trad rack/gear can be quickdraws or slings with biners? Certainly sounds cheaper.
-
Bolts are not trad in any book.
Yeah, that Bachar/Yerian route? Total sport climb dude.
You'll notice I never mentioned sport in my post, dude. Bolted climbs are not trad IMHO, regardless of whether they are ground-up, onsight, and bolted by hand from hooks or rappel bolted with a Hilti. If your trad defn is different then post it and let the discussion continue.
-
Trad, in my view, is cracks that are freeclimbed and protected with removable gear, where one is following a natural line of crack(s). Climbs that fit this include Aries, GM, Rogers/BOC, Toxic Shock, Godzilla, Heart of the Country,and many others at Index. The NE Buttress of Higher Cathedral, Braile Book, Nutcracker in Yosemite. Backbone ridge of Dtail. Burger Stanley and other routes on Prussik etc etc etc.
Dreamer is mostly bolt protected slab. Bolts are not trad in any book.
Grand wall has two bolt ladders, which are even less trad than bolted slabs. The Grand does follow a natural line of cracks, which is more than we can say for Dreamer, but it also has a bolted crack (Perry's) so that takes away points.
In short, your poll is like asking which grade is more acceptable, C- or D+. NEITHER is acceptable!
-
Tazz,
You should take a chill pill.
What would you have said to Fred and Helmey when as teenagers they spent ten days in the Pickets doing first ascents?
Should they have had a certified guide with them and carried MLUs?
Josh,
There are some quality people on CC who will help you learn some basics (e.g. MattP) if you don't abuse their good will.
Good luck surviving the early years. We all did some dumb stuff and managed to survive. Make sure you don't pay a big price or cause others to suffer because of your poor decisions.
Have some fun!
-
Cascadian Couloir. There was a TR on it recently on cc, though most here consider it a necessary evil to endure on the way down.
-
Amazing story. Great job on your parts in the rescue.
Glad to hear it has a happy ending.
-
Great addition! I think it's high time for a new guide to some of the great routes that have gone up in the past 5 years or so...any authors out there?
Brrr! I've shivered in a 'went too light' bivy on the summit of Stuart, but it didn't go below freezing like it did for you.
-
God gave men a brain and a penis but not enough blood to use both at the same time.
-
The memories of a man in his old age are the deeds of a man in his prime (Floyd).
And for Max and Jens:
-
Yep, black, and a real beauty. They come in a wide range of colors. The shoulder hump and shovel nose are the hallmarks of grizzly. And size, though that's harder to judge from a distance.
Nice trip.
-
Rad, what don't you like about Aborigine?
1 - It has kicked my arse twice, perhaps because it has well-spaced large holds in the middle that entice me to reach and crank rather than climb smoothly. Then I get flamed out before the upper crux.
2 - It has a painful two finger pocket crux that you want to grab with your left hand, but the bolt is left of that, and then the next move is a long one up and right. I probably just need a better sequence there.
3 - The name is culturally insensitive.
4 - It has kicked my arse twice and probably will again!
-
Gold Rush (11b) in the woods area is an excellent climb. Disincarnate (11a) at WWI is cool. I'm not a fan of Aborigine, but everyone else is.
-
pm sent
-
RIP. Off to New Dimensions.
[TR] Washington Pass - Liberty Crack V 5.13- 7/23/2009
in North Cascades
Posted
Fabulous. Congrats.
Got any pics of you freeing the roof? That would be, well, Rad!