Collin

I think the saccular otolith reports on vertical accelerations, usual average resting rate of sensory neurons around 100 spikes/sec, a few thousand fibers per side. I forget what the average sensitivity is but if the sudden unweighting silences them all that's a few hundred thousand missing inputs which is pretty much the first noticeable thing to "go through" my head and yours, too. After that it gets complicated. So bullshit went through your Head?

Did you aim for the ledge?

I've fallen big on plenty of overhanging climbs with no injuries. I definitely would rather fall clean then down a slab.

This is a question and a story; Question: What went through your head as you fell? What's your story? Story: The crack moved up the wall going from small hands to finger tips. Clipping the anchor chain on P1, I moved up the arching crack of P2. 15 feet above P1 anchor I locked off and placed a nut thinking to myself, "solid placement but it could be better". Another 10 to 15 feet out I could feel the pump grow. Reaching with my right hand I locked off with a single digit. My left hand at my waist, I jammed three fingers knuckle deep into the crack. Just one move away I could see a good place to fit Mr. Blue into. I began to move when something went wrong. My fingers, my feet, I can't remember. "FALLING", I shouted to my belayer as I seperated from the rock. My feet snagged the rough granite turning me upside down. Smashing the back of my helmet, I tumbbled downward. I felt the tension of the rope slow my fall. I though it was over when again I felt no tention on the rope. "Fuck, the rope broke", I thought to myself. Thinking this I remember not being scared that I most likely could die in a few seconds. I just felt relaxed as if it would help ease the impact below. Smack, I hit my helmet again, or what I though was my helmet. The rope caught and I came to a stop. "You alright", my belayer yelled. "Still alive", I replied. Ten seconds later I realized my nut had popped and the anchor from P1 caught me. Still confused of how I came off the rock, I straightened myself and wanted to get back on the crack to redeem myself. I looked down to see blood spatter on my gear and on my shirt. Feeling the back of my head, I felt a wet spot and not the good kind of wet spot. I was bleeding pretty good. 50 + foot fall, small wound to the head, lots scrapes and a cam lodged in my back didn't seem to fade me too much. Climb on.

Last Thursday, (8/18/05), my partner and I were racking up in the campers parking lot under the Cheif when we heard the well know word, "ROCK". Looking up we saw a car size block, "huge", tumbling and crashing down to the forest below just left of the campsite, looking towards the wall. We spoted a climber high up but we couldn't see his/her partner. Shortly after the climber started climbing again, "solo aiding", we guessed/hoped. "ROCK", again and for the next 15 minutes we watched smaller amounts of rockfall come down. If the climber was cleaning the route, what the fuck. Shitty place and shitty method. Anyone hear anything about this?

I have an alerigic reaction to wasps. The last sting I received was to my biecept. It swelled from my elbow to just below my shoulder. My boss made me go to the doctors and they gave me steriod shots to relieve the swelling. He did say that benadryl would help the swelling. As for the pain when you put weight on it, it most likely is the blood pressure increasing making the swelled area tighter/more painfull.

Thats the nasty bite I was talkin bout.

I know a few girls that climb, "in and out of my bed".

I was bitting by a spider on my neck about 7 years ago. I had a hole about 1/2 inch deep and 1/2 wide. Lots of H2O2 seemed to clean the infection/bit out but I survived without going to the doctors. It lasted about a month before it started to heal. I thought it could have been a brown recluse but i'm not sure now that I have seen some nasty recluse bite photos. I fu#kin hate spiders.

Pawtucket Patriot

No claim. If no police report was filled from either party involved and neither insurance company was contacted, you should be in the safe zone. Your screwed if the other driver puts in a report because your insurance company can find out if they want. My insurance company didn't find out about 3 wrecks and 2 speeding tickets until I filled a big claim on my 4th wreck. The bastards cancelled me.

The gym looks fun. I think it's a good move to make an all bouldering gym. For us "wage earners" this might save us some cash. to you.

I'm surprised no one has mentioned one of the finest buzzes, "climbing".

Dumbass dog. See attachment.

Who you calling an alcoholic...

Yosemite climbing trip: June 22 through June 26, 2005. Squamish was looking dim with the weather report forecasting rain and more rain. "Screw it", we said and jumped onto plan B, Yosemite. 3 full days and over 2500 total feet accomplished, we made the right decision. We arrived at Camp 4 Wednesday evening, “fucking mosquitoes’, just before dark with no chance of getting a spot, so we decided to go stealth. A short quick climb and dark set in masking our intentions. We awoke at an early 5:30am to sit in line at the forest ranger booth to press our luck in gaining a legal spot to camp. 9:00a.m., a spot to sleep and 1000 mosquitoes bits later, we were off to climb Goodrich Pinnacle (5.9 - 7 pitches) on Glacier Point Apron. The climb started slow due to the party in front of us and the easy first few pitches. Around pitch 4 the climb opened up a few new doors to my excitement. The climbers above us bailed from the start of pitch 5 and the leader mentioned that he didn't want to kill the belayer if he fell. Hmm, “hard/run out”, I asked? A nod and wide eyes confirmed my guess. Pitch 5 was a little balance but not too bad. Pitch 6 was fun and kept my ass puckered as I traversed the run out slab to an intermediate anchor. 3 bolts up a smooth slab to 40 feet of run out on less than dime edges was no 5.9 that I’ve climbed before, “I though to myself”. Dr Joe confirmed my conclusion with the words, “how the fuck did you get up this”. I Replied, “Carefully”. The last pitch was a little different with a wide, easy chimney. Over all, the climb was good but the rapping sucked. The rope got stuck at least twice on every pitch coming down. Once we were on the ground we downed some food and headed over to Cookie Cliff to try and get a few more in before night. Cookie Cliff was stiff! The next day we got up fairly not too early and eat tons of food for our day of climbing ahead. Off too Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9 – 5 pitches) on Middle Catheridal. This is a classic and we were surprised to be the first to get on it. Not more than an hour passed when I looked down to see a line for the route. The first pitch was nice but the second pitch was the shit with a sustained finger crack, “which I enjoyed”, up to a comfortable belay. Up pitch 3 you come to a 5.7 roof that played with my head a little too much. I had a little trouble jamming my way over it but I gave myself an excuse by saying “5.7 my ass”. Then I saw Joe move gracefully through it making it look like a 5.5, “bastard”. Over the roof came the first real off width I’ve experienced. Bring your grey or maybe a few of them. I had to move Mr. Grey up as I climbed until I could fit Mr. Blue. The rest of the climb was fun as well. A must do Yosemite climb from my perspective. Still plenty of day light out so we headed over to Pat and Jacks Pinnacle. We got on Trough of Justice (10B) and once you clip the first, second, third bolt, your high enough, “50 feet off the ground”, to not have a ground fall. We also got on a route just right of Babble On which was fairly stiff down low to some good moves higher up. Night has fallen so back to camp we go. Feeling worked in a good way we headed to the last climb of the trip. Northeast Buttress (5.9 – 11 pitches) on Higher Cathedral. Dam I wish we would have started earlier than 11:00 am. The approach was uphill all the way and the whine of the “Joeasaurus” was increasing. Route finding was difficult but over all, this climb was strong and one of the best climbs I’ve been on. Too long of climb to give details since I’m at work and my boss is lurking. Lots of roofs from finger laybacks, to hand jams, to arm jams. The various off widths destroyed my legs, back, arms, water bottle. Ect, but well worth it. Walking off the back in the dark was one of the cruxes. We were able to make it down to hit the showers and sleep for about 2 hours before we headed back to Portland. What’s next Joe? Let’s get on it. Photos

I admit that I use chalk as much as next gymnast, even though I don't need it most of the time. Chalk is somewhat mental and mental makes me climb harder. I love chalk.

Check your PM and lets climb.

I like to climb. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/s...a6c8#Post456539

If anyone climbs on any Wed, Thurs or Fri, I always have them off, so lets climb. I'm live in NE Portland and I have no car but will help pay for gas wherever you want to climb. 10 trad or 11 sport, I do them both and I have all the gear. PM me.

My friend and I are headed down to El Potrero Mexico on April 27th through May 7th. Does anybody know the best way to get down there from Austin? Were looking for cheap.

Prusik was a good trip last summer. Prusik shots

Do you think anodized biners are better than non anodized biners?

Some good climbing films climbingfilms.com.

CLIMB MAX