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Thanks for the link, Great to hear that she survived and was found. Several lessons to learnm for any of us in the BC. Good discussion on TAY. Also strictly anacdotal evidence but after a little search of pepes and videos it is interesting to note that the ones with helmet cams wer the ones getting the apparent "random" readings. Definatley needs more study. One the flip side this is a great video to share as it is as real as it gets for a scenario in class.

PS. Ryan, was that just a good guess that I am running Dynafits on my fat boards?

Thanks all, It seems that the deal would be the G3 140's with some crampons. I have been a wall to wall fan for a long time but the splits kinda mess up that school of thought. I post up on how that seems to go after a few times out. Although Daves idea of goin with uncut 125's and returning em is kinda interesting. Can you say "shop the evil empire" lol

I jumped up my fatties near the end of last season. Soon to be out where I want to do some full on earnin with em. The new boards are 158/127/148. The only skins I know at that size is the ascension splits. I love my other BD skins but I have heard mixed reviews of the splits. Anyone have experience or thoughts before I take of with I new set of ???

sorry all, been off for a bit after the post. I will get some pics up and explain. I also like Wallstein's deal. Carrying your rope to keep proper tension helps a lot and this a good way to do it. Pics and explain up in a day or so.

Even with the big biner there is still possible issues with loading. I solo most of the time with a gri. The biggest issue is that it can get out of alignment. In a fall either the biner is out of place and you risk breaking it or the gri is out of alignment and you risk damage to the clip point of the device. I have found that the "death mod" gri works very well and solves these issues. I have even taken a few whippers where I was out of place or inverted. A web search for the mod works or let me know and I can send you some pics or instructions.

Blake is right, roping up is part of an overall strategy. If it is good conditions for an arrest with partners that are capable it is a good way to save each others bacon. Bad conditions. or limiting factors call for looking carefull at what works. sometimes roping up and placing pro in a running belay is viable others not. If not roping up is best option maybe one should not even be there. Best option is to actually climb with some skilled pepes until one can make there own calls. There are a vast number of variations that can get one up and back safely.

a couple quick thoughts. The new backcountry AT boots make a huge difference. The maestrele by Scarpa skins great with almost alpine boot descent. Another one for Dynafits. you can save a mess of weight on this part. For heavier types the new radicals have some benies but I don't think you need them unless you are skiing at a high Din level. As to ski's I know several gals who have been real happy with their new stuff from Fat-y-pus. Sweet backcountry and strong enough they are making a big showing in the freeride world. Keep in mind though you gotta go up. breaking trail with mine (161 tips) is a bit of a workout. I find I float over a lot more but I still have to make trail.

Hey still culd get it, but maybe not. Do get a Darwin you need to remove yourself from the gene pool. I personally worked on a Surviving winner who maaged to cook the family jewels in a stupid stunt. Living but no more toys = Darwin too

Pm sent on the Solio

I mess with a wide variation of skill levels. Here's what I find find from helpin dem. 1)Use the conventional wisdom for fitting length. 2)If your fairly new or exploring new terrain a little longer add confidence. 3)If you actually have some skills and can walk off angle and maintain balance shorter is more versatile. 4)Curved ahaft works quite well at the same length. Although you need to use a different arm motion to plunge, wobbling out the hole by awkward motion does nobody any good. Bottom line is you need to be real about your own skills and where you are going to be going.

You might walk away, but you will often be sore and it will often involve cleaning out your pants.

What bkb0000 said. Note that the "fall rating" for a rope is the number of fall factor 2 drops at exactly the same place a rope will take to the failure point. As a quick newb deal the fall factor is a ratio of how long of a fall to how much rope. Ie a 10' fall caught with 5' of rope is a ff of 2, a 5' fall caught on 10' of rope is a ff of .5. I would be wiling to bet that your falls are all in the way small end of the list. What I do is track my falls, I only trad lead on stuff that is really new. If I take a fall that approaches ff of 1 (30 foot whipper caught with 30' rope ) I will swap my rope end for end. Another ff1 on the other end moves the line to sport lead only (probably more reliable anchors can take a bigger hit). Another couple ff1's move the rope to non lead use. That way I get more use and don[t risk the big falls to old rope.

It would be a little stretch of the series but I have been super happy with my Dakine Helipro. I think they have a 30L model. On the pro side it is quite low profile and keeps stuff centered for weight great, it has a real full suspension so it is comfy no matter what I jam in or on to it, the beavertail carries skis or a full snowboard with ease. On the con side it is heavier than the others even if the suspension hides hides that.

Yes, Dallas's body was found and recovered Thursday. There are plans being made for a memorial service. There is also plans being laid for a climbers event. It will probably be at Mt Erie which he was fond of as we all know, time and date still to be determined. I do not know yet if the service is family only or if it is a public invited thing. I am sure it can be posted up when that call is made.

It is with the sadness of a partner leaving us I share that Dallas Kloke has passed. Yesterday while scrambling in the Pleiades, a hand hold broke which led to what his partner described as an un-survivable fall. As of this afternoon the search for his remains is still ongoing. Best of wishes and prayers to his surviving family and the searchers involved.

I use a piece of 1/8th plywood cut big enough for the fuel bottle and the stove. Then staple the foil base from the wind screen with a heavy paper stapler. Stores flat against the frame sheet in yur pack and almost as light as John cardboard.

well in that case I need to change my votes. I have only soled without a permit until the law changed. If I am up there by the revised law I get the permit.

For this sunday just follow the bootpack. Mothers day ski festivities are in the schedule but who knows how many in the conga line.

I would ten to agree with Goatboy. I just flew over them last friday doing a looksee for other thngs. Snow level on north aspect slopes was approx 2800 ft. south aspect was close to 5100 in that area. The Becky route catches good afternoon sun and so would be a reasonable bet. If one was so inclined the south arete should be fair too. Of course one could always drive up and get some eyes on it. We have the ski party this weekend and I am going over the next.

Sure thing. There has been a long list of stuff climbed there but no guides put out. All trad but then there was a few other bit put up that were not well received with local climbers. The entire head is now BLM mangaged land I can check but it is up for local mangament (or at least the locals are trying to get it ). I have friday possibly available and then Sunday afternoon too. Check yur PMs and maybe we can hook up.

Watmough head has some good routes. They are fairly well established and there are a few bolts and some old soft iron pins. New bolts and development is looked down on by the locals. most of the stuffis on the upper prtion of the south side. nice rock been climbers on it for many years. Where you workin over there. I will be on Lopez most of the day Tommorow (tuesday)we may be able to get together for a few.

I don't do gym so never tried the BUS. I know that I can stack a rope while belaying using SSS but I can't see how I would have any kind of rope managment with the BUS

So the real divider here is to look at where and when you are arresting here. If you are wearing crampons then do not arrest with your toes. But as soon as you slow down or stop then definatley kick yourself a good hole to hang on with.

As an owner of several assorted packs what I have to add is that I can often suffer through small packs of various style (even my 20 litre Dakine) when I need a bigger unit I always end up with my Cilo. I love my 60l worksack and the way it carries bigger loads.