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Well done Johnny!

Just back from 3 days in Squamish in my camper. The Spit is my favorite place. The pirate campground up the Mamquan has a grim looking population of folks of questionable character.

That would be Mont Blanc.

A warning to all. It's great to run laps on Snow Creek Wall for a day, then get back to your rig and it's been broken in to and a bunch of your shit is gone. That shit included my cooler of beer and my flip-flops! It's a cold bastard that steals a guys flip-flops and beer. Lot's of other, more expensive stuff taken as well. This was Thursday morning. When we got to the trailhead there was a car with windows broken out and their stuff ransacked. Got back that evening and the same had happened to my camper. The stench of cigarette smoke and tweeker BO inside made it that much more special. Sheriff said pretty unusual for it to happen in broad daylight. He said he'd be visiting the lot more as there seems to be a rash, but I doubt it will be enough to deter the POS. Watch your stuff. There seems to be an entrepreneur cleaning out cars. Anybody want to hang out with me on top of that rock across the road with a baseball bat and binoculars?

I too learned to back up a figure-8 with an overhand. I know most of us in the rope rescue game have given up on the back-up knot on figure-8's after painfully exhaustive(and mindless) testing by others. People sit in rooms and talk about this kind of earth shattering shit for hours! A PROPERLY TIED and dressed figure-8 should not need a back-up. Our rule of thumb is one palms width of tail.

Another great report John! You captured our feelings perfectly on a long day. Next time maybe I'll remember a camera to get some shots...probably not though.. Seeing John lead those top two pitches of the Pillar with a pack on was the most impressive leads I've seen in the mountains. I meant the climb, not the climbers! Right Pete, I know 'who' you were talking about.

Great write-up John. While the approach was rather hellish, the actual climb was quite good. Give me a few weeks to forget the bad stuff and let the holes in my legs heal and we'll go back to finish it! Well I can tell you that even after two years they were delicious. And if it's not too much trouble, maybe you could include some fresh shrimp with that lime too? And I was about to start believing there was a god when we found those beers. I think it was in the top 5 of tastiest beers I've had...the timing, the refreshing taste, the coldness, all good. Made the rest of the descent tolerable. Maybe next time they can leave some percocet with them?

Depending on the type of rock they are set in, they can be a bitch for a follower to remove. I have used them and just thought the amount of fiddling wasn't worth it. Offset nuts however, are the shizzle.

Trip: Dragontail - Another Triple C report Date: 6/2/2012 Trip Report: Kyle and I climbed TC Sunday. Just thought I'd post a few pics to compare to the report from last week. We took 12 1/2 hours car to car. The route has maybe a few days left before it becomes scary. About a 50ft scramble to get into the hidden couloir. The runnels were bare, so we did a 5.8ish climb up the arete to bypass the lower entrance to the 2nd couloir. The traverse into the 3rd couloir was bare as well and required a 30-40ft traverse of rotten rock. The snow in all 3 couloirs was soft and deep step kicking made for slower going. The glissade down Asgard was perfect, the way around the lake arduous. The dry runnels Top of rock bypass 1st to 2nd couloir Final summit slog All in all a great day out. TC in June is a bonus. Take rock gear and get there quick. And if somebody else is on the route, run! Gear Notes: Alpine rack. Didn't use any pins. Pickets useless in mush.

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The Seattle Police released pictures of the stolen gear from their big sting. The thieves seemed to really like bicycles. No climbing gear that I saw. Good luck finding your stuff!!

Way to get after it guys. That approach and deproach looks fun...thanks for not calling!!

In my experience with White Saddle, it was much less formal than counting 1/10th's of an hour. I'm sure that's because Mike has made the flight 100's of times to all areas and knows what to charge based on flight time. We went in about 8 years ago and were carged $500 a head for four of us in 2 trips including gear. Good luck getting 6 people and gear for 2-3 weeks in 2 trips. Mike is great about answering all questions on the phone. Have fun. It's an unbelievable place and as wild as it gets.

I heard that asshat Chris took 30 minutes to get over the Lithuanian roof...he is an e-pussy... and I think the fixed rope with the guide was a swell idea. Tied an overhand on a bight on the slack side and clipped into the anchor. Although that's probably overkill it made me feel e-safe!

Humped up to Drury yesterday and climbed the first pitch. 2nd was completely gone and the top was almost completely gone. Going to take awhile for it to heal. But, I'd highly recommend the approach just for fun. Punchthrough snow over talus and water makes for good times!

Good job on pushing through. The trick is figuring out exactly where you can stop dropping down and cross over toward the pass. You'd be fast too if you were drafting behind Pete "The Machine".

Trip: Liberty Bell - Liberty Crack Date: 9/11/2011 Trip Report: John and I climbed Liberty Crack yesterday. Seemed like a properly named route to climb on 9/11. My thoughts were with the many lost, especially the 343 bothers in the fire service. Also a time on the summit to remember friends lost in the past few years. The climb was straight forward. I didn't expect such good quality climbing throughout. Great route and great fun. Only one other party on the route, and we managed to get by them a few pitches from the top. The crux of the route was getting to the wall. Fun chimney climbing up the moat on kitty litter was character building. The moat from hell. The party ahead jugging after fixing the day before. Jugging after just clearing the Lituanian Lip Twilight on the summit. Beautiful evening. Lots of smoke down valley In memory of my friend FF Terence Goldberg, lost in the line of duty, and all those lost on 9/11. Approach Notes: Still snow at the base!?!?

Good to see young folks like yerselfe's gettin' out

I didn't feel so fast yesterday Kyle. The Sherpa Pass descent is definately a good option for getting back to Mountaineers Creek and knocking that climb out in a easier day than heading south and out. As Pete said, drop all the way down before trying to traverse the gully's of hell over to the pass. Sure liked the climb. Enjoyable climbing throughout.

Check your pm's

Beware the Vagabond. Stayed there a few years ago and the bar was rockin late into the evening every night. Not so easy to catch the 1st Midi lift in the morning. I agree with Friedrichs other advice though. I got by without a guide while there, but they can make logistics a lot easier.

2nd the hostel by the Brevant. Very cheap and she'll let you keep gear there as long as you want in the attic. Climb the Rochefort arete and stay in the winter hut at the top of the Grand Jorasse. Of course you'll be in a unheated 'hut' at almost 14,000 ft, but it's free!

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