Flying_Ned

You're a maniac! That's still a burly walk up to Desperation Peak. So you ascended a snow finger to the NW of Desperation? Also, would you say this is a decent approach to Alphabet Ridge?

Same size & weight. Pick one or none.

Going up Friday am to check out the high traverse into the great basin (from luch rock) on The Brothers. Probably will bivy on S. Summit Friday night. N-S traverse is a possibility depending on time limitations. GPS will stay in the garage.

Kudos for just giving it a shot on such a cruddy day. My wife and I walked up Mt. Townsend and the ridge back to the Silver Lakes pass yesterday and got pretty soaked. My first experience on Constance included watching a bodybag being airlifted off the E face, so your discretion is applauded. Re: your GPS comment--I've had one for 3 years and only really used it usefully on Rainier. Never in the Olympics. Seems like just another gadget that I'd never take out of my pack. I don't consciously leave it behind--just never consider bringing it.

Layton is OLD SCHOOL!!! what do you know? LURKER PC SUCKS Not sure what "old school" or "pc" has do with it, brother. You boys can have your backwoods CircJerk. I just don't think it plays well here.

Layton, you're a putz. Nuff said.

That's a beautiful traverse--especially a little later in season when the alpland opens up a bit. One of those rare car-to-car high traverses.

The description below is correct. My sis and I came up Furher Finger and out the Kautz last July. The exit is about 150--200' below the lower Kautz where you cross the little pressure ridge onto the bowling alley. Go to the rock wall, turn south and look for the fixed line in the obvious weakness on the wall. It's about 30' up loose, sharp rock to a secure stance. Easy, and well worth it, especially if you're camped lower and don't need to climb up to a camp at Hazard. We encountered no moat or access problem whatsoever. This should be the normal route for warm days or pm returns. JayB said: Agreed about the bowling alley. I had the same question. Here's Ivan's reply from another thread... "on the way down from the chute, homeward bound, descend to the level of the bottom tongue of the icefall, then cut strait across the debris path to the far wall (to the east, towards muir) the far wall is safe from ice/rock fall from the ice cliff, but itself could have rock fall from above ... this area you cut strait across is at the same level where you'd turn the corner if you were climbing the route, had run down the debris path, and were then turning back up hill...once you've crossed to the eastern wall and are largely out of danger, stick tight to the wall and go downhill about 50-100 feet...i assume this area might form a moat in later season, as the rappel line that's fixed was locked into the snow and was protecting what was a pretty easy climb...the rock portion is a little awkward in crampons, but still simple...it takes you out onto a snowfield that connects over to camp hazard...this way is definitely the fastest to cross danger area "

3 of us did some training on Mt. Stone last Saturday in mixed weather--sun, wind, rain, sun. Trail is in normal shape with snow just below the second headwall. The mountain has seen little activity, except for bears, so far this year and no track in the upper snowfields exists except for ours. The shortcut, or direct route up the obvious coulior to the high basin below the summit block is dry in the upper half. A little class 3-4 scramble will save 25 minutes from the base of coulior, though you miss the interesting pillow basalt on toward the NW corner and ridge scramble. We were completely socked in on the summit, but things opened up on the descent so we took a side trip to St. Peter's gate and got a good look at the high route to upper Lena and Scout Lake--still snowbound. Lake of the Angels also remains completely frozen over and snowbound. The tarns on the first bench are melted out, however. Other than that, all things status quo. Good knee pounding descent.

Dude, if your doing the trad speed ascent, it's hobnails and Stihl suspenders...

First LR climb I dropped a powerbar into the inky abyss during a rest atop the black pyramid. Couldn't believe the view from there during an afternoon ascent on the next trip. You do miss ALOT between the Thumb and the scrund in the dark.

That's the deal. Loose rock. Difficult to protect. I've not been on that route, but I've watched watermellons fall down it from Crystal Pass. Same goes for the Red Dike. Inner Constance has some better climbs, I think, if you don't mind dropping down in class.

There is a decent exit crack leading to the ridge across from the lower end of the Ice Chute. It's probably 5.0 with a pack and may have a rope hangin in it. It puts you in the rocks just below camp Hazard and eliminates the need to climb up to and under the Ice Cliff on the return.

3 of climbed the East Ridge Route yesterday, on the hottest, buggyest day of the year. The route is in excellent shape, and we had major good time. Here's the TR: The washout just beyond the route 1 trailhead has been repaired so parking near the Jefferson Pass trailhead is possible. The trail to the pass is completely clear of blowdowns, etc. The climbers track is well defined, though you may have to poke around in a few places before reaching the rocks. Once the ridge is gained, the route is fairly straightforward with very few class 4 moves. At the obvious impasse, descend 50 feet and countour S to the snowfield at the base the coulior leading back to the ridge. Here you have choice--dicey moted traverse to steep NW snowfields, or sustained class 4 exposure for 700 feet (the top of Washington's head) to the snow on the forehead. We made a rising westerly traverse over good rock, working back SE from the W corner. Small ledges, good finger holds and some knarled trees get you over this section. Though a fall on the cliff would be deadly, protecting it is difficult. Don't take a novice or anyone uncomfortable with exposure on this route. Once we topped out it was an easy traverse over steep snow to the nose. A quick rappel back to the ridge leads to ledges below and East of the summit, from where it's a short scramble. This was a long day for us. It was hot, and we took many breaks, eventually taking approx 7 hours from car to summit. We descended route one, and found that no one else had been on the mountain yesterday--which seemed unusual for such a fine day. Met two guys doing a sunset climb of route 1 on our decent of same. Short walk on the road back to truck lead to some precious and cold beer--9 hours from our departure. I highly recommend this route for a great mixed climb. We had an Olympic rookie with us and his eyes were poppin', but he did an excellent job and never got himself into trouble.

Yawn...I raise my glass to you, Rheinhold. ha! those are my thoughts, you dont like them oh well!? can you tell me that climbing in the oly brings technical challenge? if so please share. The point, my friend, is to enjoy the route you picked, not to see how unimpressed you can be for the rest of us. People who "get" the Olympics are there for the unique experience, rugged and remote terrain, and quality mountaineering. It's not beneath us because we have to leave our camelots in the car. It simply is what it is--an interesting and beautiful crown of chossy, jagged, snowy, icey, steep and tangled peaks. Only here do people feel the need to elevate themselves above that. Comparing your trip to a boring college lecture says more about your self-absorbtion than your hike up the south coulior. You should try it backwards and blindfolded next time.

And which route? West ridge could be done in boots with no pro, just a few long slings and a hip belay or two. But most people bring some stealth rubber to combat the severe pucker factor. It all depends on your climbing level. Consult Beckey, pick a route, and go from there.

Yawn...I raise my glass to you, Rheinhold.

Norman, congrats on your summit. That's a heckuva long day--especially this time of year. Where is the snowline on the route now? That first right turn you mention, at the base of the first fat couloir after exiting the creek bed, is a frequent high camp for those not wanting to stay at Lena Forks. The bench above (to the west) is the summer route which swings back into the couloir where it narrows out. What you described as the Hourglass, I think, is the lower section of same, which becomes impassable when free of snow. I've always referred to the entire couloir as the Hourglass. In late season it's a loose dirt & talus track that recommends a helmet if anyone is on route above you. I'm planning a trip via the "Great Basin" route in June with a summit bivy. If anyone has any info on the westward bushwhack from Lena Forks, I'd appreciate seeing it here. Thanks.

Ditto. ID via CG.

Maybe he found himself off route. Not the place to be if he intended on summiting via the standard route. I made the same mistake on my first attempt--also solo in limited visibility.

Agree here with Yellowdog. Flapjacks is longer but easier. But the approach via Mildred is not nearly as henious in early season in good snow. It's fairly easy to get to the Fin from either direction, but that puts you a bit away from Cruiser, which I think is best approached from further up Gladys Divide. Coming in via Mildred Lakes there's an interesting xcountry route on the south ridge above the lakes (turn left into timber at the tarn before descending to the first lake) that takes you toward Lincoln--a seldom visited scramble from which you can traverse the entire Sawtooths if you have the time and weather.

If anyone has more info on where he was found, please post it here. The Mason County Journal reported he was "climbing among boulders and snow slopes" and was found at 5700'. It seems probable he was on the standard route given his apparent experience and the likelihood of some sort of boot track in the snow. At that altitude, he probably made the ridge and had completed the traverse to the summit block and was confronted with the crux of the climb--the short exposed ledge at the base of the "chin" to the steep snowfield leading to the summit. A fall on the ledge or snowfield above would send a climber 400' down over near verticle rock and snow. In full winter conditions, the ledge is very exposed and should be protected. This is my backyard conditioning peak and I've spent a lot of time up there. Under avy conditions with soft snow, this summit area demands extreme care. Following tracks from earlier in the season can get you into difficulty in poor snow or ice. I've seen more than a few people wishing for a belay while descending the last snow pitch. It's really a shame this happened. My heart goes out to his friends and family.

Adding a voice to the chorus: It'll be a good ski tour and a steep hike. The route is fairly straightforward, and as previously noted, move climbers right (W) when confronted with the obvious obstruction. There are a few decent bivies low on the ridge which could be fairly windy this time of year. You should be able to dig in for good shelter. While the route is a loose heap later in the season, the meadowland below makes up for it. Consider that and camping at or near the summit. Save the spring routes for Monitor or Mazama.

EternalX--if you think you need a guide, you need a guide. All of us had a mentor, whether an experienced partner or a paid guide. I've always opted to for the former, but I'm cheap and stubborn. $225 seems kind of high though, unless they're cooking your meals and washing your socks. Olympus is spectacular and remote and can be dangerous, but it's not Rainier. If I were you, I'd hook up with someone from this forum whose open to planning a trip. Norman Cyde, Pencil Pusher and others did this round trip, non-stop last summer.

Yellowdog--good job. I agree with your decision to stay higher below the ridge. The winter/spring traverse via the described route is often a waiste-deep swim. Sounds like you had a good surface. I'm curious about your cramponing. Ice seems to be a somewhat rare occurance in this area, any time of year. BTW, the trifecta is a decent of Washington via Paradise Valley (his throat) to tackle Pershing. Re: your other post, that might be an option for you.