Led_Hed

How do I submit a photo for the contest? I have some cool shots from the Wrangell/St. Elias range that I could enter. Is there a limit to the number you can submit?

My advice is to Heed the advice of Miller, Jason_Martin, Dylan_Taylor (all guides). Seek qualified instruction (ie: a proffesional guide) Practice, practice, practice. And make sure you're practicing a proven method. Mini-traxions, extra knots, etc. can end up biting you in the ass in a lot of situations. One of the most common mistakes I see is a climber daisy-chaining their leg loop prussik too tightly so that there is zero slack in the bundled cordage when the weight of the fallen victim is applied to the rope. This effect is compounded by the climber being unattentive to his/her prussik configuration sliding forward on the rope during travel. If the bundled leg loops end up being tentioned it's nearly impossible for the rescuer to deploy the leg loop prussiks and attach them to the primary anchor, therby releiving the load from the rescuer to the initial anchor. Big problem! It's good to bundle your shit up so it doesn't dangle and get in your way, but don't fall victim to the taught daisy chain. You must also be able to access the stowed/daisied leg loops from the self arrest position with one hand. Crouching and bending your upper body to reach something will generally not work and may end up causing you to loose your load-bearing position in the snow.

Looking for a ride home to Bellingham, WA from the Canmore area on December 1st. Anyone want to share gas costs? Email me at matthewmc23@hotmail.com Thanks.

Good point CPOly. Climbing IS the ultimate amateur sport. re: performance rock climbing, even though those hard crag climbers can be annoying spraylords, at least they help us realize that with improvment we too could lead 5.12 or better. Sometimes it takes hanging around with a more hard-core crowd to pull you out of a performance plateau and get you onto some challenging terrain where you actually make physical and mental gains.

franticly seeking Squamish partner for Sat or Sat/Sun. IM me if interested.

A friend of mine had an experience similar to the pin clipping failure described above. He fell at the crux of the 10b crack climb just to the left of mosquito crack at Squamish and the biner on the pro-end (connected to a mid-sized nut) on his draw exploded at the end of the spine nearest to the open end of the biners' gate (same place as the aforementioned biner). There happened to be a rescue equipment quality control expert over near "flying circus" who looked at the biner for us and quickly diagnosed the cause of its failure. He said that the gate flutter and slapping that takes place on the upper biner of a draw during a fall (as rope feeds down through it and then back up through it) is enough to jostle it around enough to lodge the cable of the nut in the gate's notch so as to load the 'biner in a way in which it was not built to withstand. Luckily my buddy had another piece of pro between him and the ground which safely held his fall.

take a wilderness first responder course from Remote Medicine Incorporated in seattle. (or consult their website or chat with them directly on the phone) They are a terrific resourse and can set you up with all the neccesary supplies. Those kits you get at REI and such are a big let down and would be completely useless in any situation more dire than a nagging hang nail.

Quit whining, return your gloves to whence they came, and buy a different pair. Do you whine this much while climbing? You're wasting everyone's time here (it's actually amazing how much of a response you got). Besides, if you're using a pair of dry tool gloves in -40 degree conditions, you deserve to loose both hands. And remember Twight's advice: "Buy in haste, repent at leisure." Useless Spray... :

Chair Peak in summer?

Sorry BG, I just don't follow you here...

I think there are some good points being made here, but I'll throw one more twist in the conversation... Using 70m twins means that you will be able to cover mega distances between belays, even more so than a single 70m because of the straighter lines/less drag. I have a hard enough time hearing my partners on alpine and ice routes when the wind is pumping and/or there is a bulge or dome between me and them. That extra ten meters may mean some pretty agrivating communication issues, and with 70m of really stretchy half rope running between you, rope tugs are a little harder to read. You'd also have to buy two ropes right away cause the chances you end up craggin' with someone who has the same rig is a bit slim, unless of course they are you regular partner. Just a thought.

Anybody out there living near Carbondale, Glenwood Springs, or Snowmass, Colorado looking for a roomate? Moving to the area next week and I need a place to call home (more like a place to sleep and dry out gear) for the next 6 months or so. If you have any ideas for me don't hesitate to PM or email: matthewmc23@hotmail.com Thanks.

ps-I'm not a gaper. I promise.

On monday I'm packing up shop to move to the Glenwood Springs/Carbondale area (not yet sure where I'll be renting) for a new job. Any other Cascadian transplants in the area looking for partners. I intend to hit Ouray and other cool stuff near Vail and the like as much as possible this winter. Shoot me a private message if you wanna hook up and crank a little ice.

Don't go digital. You'll regret it. I did. My $70 Olympus stylus Epic has great glass and with Fuji Velvia (which is the bomb shit as far as slides are concerned-for archival quality, color, reproduction, etc.) I'm able to print 10x14 with amazing results. Just cause it's treandy doesn't mean it's sensible.

My buddy who works in the industry hooked me up with a K2 probe. Full length, pretty sturdy, really fast and simple to erect. Always fun to work that word into a legit sentence. Not sure how much it costs though.

Good idea, Anyone have any contacts up there at SMR? If they could get an estimated list of the items jacked maybe we could notify all of the used gear shops that might be solicited. Catching the little shits would be awesome. I heard the guy on the news (being interviewed) say that they have virtually no equipment to mount major rescues with right now. SMR are good people. They came after me and my pall last winter when we were overdue and I'd hate for someone's rescue to be compromised. This stings!

Just saw on the 11o'clock news that the Skagit Mtn. Rescue got ripped off this weekend. All of their communication equipment and climbing gear was stolen. We should all try to rally the donations for these guys and chip in for a service that could certainly affect us should we epic big this year! And bust the jackasses who may turn up selling their loot on ebay or the like.

That big flight of stairs up near broadway (that goes down toward I-5) seems to do the trick for me. And climbing of course whenever possible.

Layton, You were loging 300+ pitches of sandstone at the time she went walkabout. Better break out the velcro gloves amigo.

Probably gonna be a while before that shapes up.

I'll tell you if you'll get rid of that ridiculous screen name.

A partner of mine took a full rope length winger (ice tools flailing everywhere) from a full rope above me to a full rope length below me in the Sherpa couloir on Stewart. The only thing between us was a fluke that I had just installed before he cut loose. Thank god it held and he didn't clober me on his way down!

$$$=Freedom. Gotta buy your freedom in this world. Otherwise you end up someone's bitch. Why else would I be shoveling gravel and pushing wheelbarrows while searching high and low for another better paying (and career oriented) job.

Trask- (Haggen) does that mean you're living large in the Ham?