sepultura

Skied underneath Death Picnic on Table Mountain today....looks like its ready to roll! a wee bit thin. Just right for some Cascadian hard person. http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/uploads/3601/IMG_0174.jpg

Thanks for the great trip Jason and Trent...here is one more shot-Jason cresting the summit ridge. http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/uploads/3601/IMG_01392.jpg

Hey Tom, was just skiing below Colfax yesterday(got back fro AK on Monday). The Polish route looks way thin and sparsely connected, the Cosley-Houston is thin as well, the first pillar is still buried under an apron of snow. It was really cold up above 7500 feet, probably not much chance of things dripping and freezing under current conditions. Lets get out!

A landmark accomplishment Tom! Congratulations. Dallas would be proud.

The missing list is found! Thanks for digging it up Tom, and putting this to rest.

Sweet photos as always Steph. We all can start planning that Robson bid again! Ok everybody, stay healthy! That means you Trent

Jason, I must book Gordo for my Himmelhorn bid, and I need to know that he can insure the safety of Scrambles! Please post his email and fan website for us all!

Wisely said Jason. These peaks in question are far more serious than there numbers would lead you believe. And Toms Forbidden/J-berg comparison is a perfect example. Dallas was not a numbers climbers. There must be some reason why his route on the NF of The Triad has never been repeated(to my knowledge), even though its only 5.6 I think it is important to aspire to the achievements of the Old Guard, because a list like Klokes is something that a committed, bold NW climber could pull off with a lot of time and a little luck(Tom). We could all look to climbers like Colin Haley and Blake Herrington to set the bar, but the reality is, most of will never climb at that level, and if we could we would probably head off for the greater ranges. The Kloke list, in all its forms is a perfect tick for the employed Cascade Hard Man or Women to aspire to in a lifetime of climbing. This is fun though. to see all the ideas. Dallas would appreciate the banter!

Someone must have the Kloke list! I wish I would have wrote it down, I thought I would always be able to call him on the phone and get beta(or a guide)! I recall him speaking about the 10 in question and I think you are on track Tom. I know everyone has an opinion about what these peaks should be but I believe we are looking for what Dallas thought they where. It is important to remember that when Dallas did most of these peaks it was long before all the advances in gear and instant internet beta. A peak does not have to be technically hard to be a tough and dangerous climb. The most stressful climb I ever did with Dallas was Lincoln Peak(his second time) and we only roped up for 2 pitches. The down climb was long and scary, it is hard to believe the first time Dallas did Lincoln he only used one axe. I do recall the 6 peaks that Dallas called the Terrible 6, these were all peaks that could be done with one or less bivy, and was essential for any Cascades hard man Middle Index Lincoln Nooksack Tower J-berg Big Four Boston As for the 10 most difficult, knowing Kloke it was probably something that kept evolving, and he was a great recorder of detail. You may be the only other guy who has ticked the list Tom, Sweet!

http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/uploads/3601/IMG_06351.jpg

A note on the C-J couloir....the 3 times I have been up and down that route I have witnessed rock fall. Cascade peak seems to be constantly shedding, having climbed the peak with Dallas and A2THEK I can attest to it rottenness. A few years later A2THEK and Trent and I were back for an attempt on J-berg and Trent was struck by rockfall in the CJ couloir. I do not recall how may surgeries it took to put Trents finger back together but it was a few, thank God for the whiskey as pain meds, the dude is tough... When Dallas and I climbed J-berg in 99 he swore that it would be his last time up that peak, yet he went back with Trent some years later and climbed it again. He loved that mountain and after 50 years of climbing in the Cascades there is bound to be some repeats, especially with young guns looking for there own first time up Cascade test pieces, its hard not to get sucked into someone else's enthusiasm. Dallas was talking about going back for trip number 8 up J-berg the day he died, some peaks just call you back.

Sweet Tom, keep climbing that thing and you can go for the Dallas Kloke record of 7 ascents! Nice job guys.

Nice work guys! way to get after it in a seldom visited corner of the Cascades. Awesome!

Great stuff Jason! wonderful pics every time. Nice to see Dallas and Rodgers sign in. I recall seeing Rodgers sign in on little J-berg during that trip we did to Silent lakes...he signed in "no rope, no route description, no problem"...R.Jung N Face, it was awesome. And of course Dallas had logged in as well. Those guys were the real deal.

If you are going to have epics, and for some reason write them up, be prepared for criticism. An new Iridium sat phone can be found for under a $1000.00. Sounds like a bargain, much cheaper than helicopters! Glad you got out okay.

Nice effort guys! Looks like a great trip, wish I could have been along. Good to see Gord made it along with the new job and all. See you all in September!

Nicely put Jason, looks like a great trip! What do you and the Running Dog got planned next?

Thanks Tim, possibly the best trip report I have ever read...

Rountop was way back in 1999. Planning on going into the Shalers sometime after the 16th of July. Hope we have good weather. I will let you know how it turns out.

Word travels fast even here in AK....What a way to get back in the game! at the slide show we are going to want to see the pictures of you wallowing in devils club and gnawing through slide alder.....Nice work Bro!

WCC, here is a few photos from the trip to Unimak Island that Jeff and I did. We flew into False Pass and proceeded to the Roundtop/Isanotski area. It was a long cold slog in early May, but good conditions for hauling sleds. Mostly we had tent bound storm days, with just enough time to pull of Rountop. Thanks for the interest!

Hey Jason, Were going to try to do a trip into the Shaler Range in July, I will keep you posted...unclimbed summits! Keep up the Cascades campaigns and trip reports- they give me something to look forward to when I gat back to port!

Trip: Unalaska Island, Alaska - Makushin Volcano Date: 7/18/2011 Trip Report: Here is something a little different...and far and away. I have been meaning to post this for a while. Here is some photos from a solo foray I took up Masushin Volcano in the Aleutians last summer. If you would like some more info, please click on the link for a report from the climb that was in the local paper. http://www.thedutchharborfisherman.com/article/1036bering_sea_fisherman_takes_on_makushin Approach Notes: Skiff ride and a long walk...this would be a great ski !

Allright Comrades, glad to see you can finally check Big Snag off the to do list! Wish I could have been there to enjoy the suffer fest. Save some choss dawging projects for my return! Somehow I don't think we will run out......

Nice work Guys! Tim, good to see your getting after it Brother. Skagway next spring?