EWolfe

I parked my van in Smoke Bluffs parkinglot a few times last year, and never had any hassle. It's quiet, not dusty (like the road) and close in. But I have been told since then not to do that. What gives? Fern? Dru? Murray?

Hark! I hear the distinctive cry of the SPORT CLIMBER!

There's also the history issue. I have never questioned the legitimacy of a quicklink in a system: They're steel and wrenchlocked. But I have many times wondered with left 'biners, aluminum rap rings, etc.

I used to sew in my center mark with black thread on lighter ropes, etc It worked great, and I could feel the halfway mark as well. The only downside is that it takes FOREVER to sew enough passes to clearly mark the cordage. I guess you could use a thicker thread, but the nice thing about the fine thread is you couldn't really feel it through the device, and it seemed like wear would be an issue with increased standoff. Now I just use a Sharpie

Pretty amazing story. Thanks for the link Rudy.

I met his cousin recently...

anchors are unsafe

You can lead one thing to a Nodder, but you can't make it drink with a Nodder.

I love the way she handles that curved tool. YOWZA!

I've tried that thing. Frickin sick to stand and look at the angle and lack of holds, then see the chalk marks going up when I can't even get on the thing

I think if you are buying 3/8" quick links and installing 2 of them, for lowering and rappel purposes only, you don't need to worry about failure. My $.02

You need to get some new batteries for your 8mm, Iain

I thought a brownpoint was a toprope ascent where you grabbed draws, gear, pulled on the rope and all that "shit".

Often, upon the gracious moments when I actually sight the elusive DFA, do I ponder upon his cranial capacity. It truly must only be rivaled in size by the Man Himself, Fred "BigHead" Nicole:

You're harshing on my mellow, Man. Why? Did I shoot your dog? No, Man. It's groovy, though, just mellowing out, Man. Dude, are you hopped up on drugs right now? Nah, Man I just wanna foment Peace, Man. Just for a change, you know, Man. Fuckin' druggie. That's cool, Man. I'll just,like, balance you out. Peace, Man!

I gotta tell ya, DFA, I am filling up the margins fast in that advance copy of the NEW EDITION, that I so fortuitously was able to acquire through my connections within the Central Oregon climbing community. I dare say your copy must be taking a dog-ear or two, as well?

You're harshing on my mellow, Man. Why? Did I shoot your dog? No, Man. It's groovy, though, just mellowing out, Man. Dude, are you hopped up on drugs right now? Nah, Man I just wanna foment Peace, Man. Just for a change, you know, Man.

You're harshing on my mellow, Man. Why? Did I shoot your dog? No, Man. It's groovy, though, just mellowing out, Man.

Did I say forest? I meant -----> green

Yes, Yes and pinkpoint. Well put, Matt. Part of being a good onsight climber is knowing when and how to downclimb to the last rest. Even if it's the ground.

There is actually a inconspicuous permanent way to mark 'biners with spraypaint. Hold the gate open, and spraypaint the notch that the gate locks in, then wipe away excess with a paper towel, leaving just the paint in the notch. Brace gate open and let dry. I have 'biners 7-8 years old that are still clearly marked with the forest green.

I'll lend ya my climbers guide to NC if ya remind me before we meet up next time.

I think I have a Red Green episode about that. Let me check and get back to you

You're harshing on my mellow, Man.