Justin_RR

OlegV and I were looking for a 3rd on this route. I'm thinking an early start, but not quite the 2AM get-go. My experience includes other somewhat similar routes on Hood (Leuthold's Coulior, Devil's Kitchen Headwall), as well as glacier travel and steep snow and ice climbing on other peaks. PM me if interested, or call 503-261-3349.

Chad, Donn, OMB, Nice, nice, nice. With Cloudcap road in that shape, you might have the honor of the last ascent of the season. Congrats!

Wazzumountaineer- I think that Queen's Chair is the flat topping-out point for Leuthold's Coulior and Yocum ridge. You were probably looking at the right (south) side of the Reid Headwall formations (?).

Can't tell from the photo, but does it look like any of the mixed routes on I-rock are in yet? Thanks.

Hey Alex, so am I off-base here with the location info? That's where it looked like it was when I was up there, but maybe I got it wrong. Care to fill us in on the real spot?

Anyone up for Eugene-area alpine routes or a day at the columns downtown? I was thinking of Early Morning Couloir (if Pole Creek Road is passable; anyone know?), Thielsen or something on the E-NE side of S.Sister. I could also be convinced to head up to Hood to do the Sandy HW or N. Face. email: justinrr@uchicago.edu cell: 503-261-3349

Hey Oleg, Justin here. I guess I lucked out that I didn't go up with you and Gaston (he was your partner, right?). Sounds miserable, and with such a good forcast! Let me know if you are up for an attempt on the Sandy HW this coming week.

Rap "Wall" consists of a few exposed rock faces of Snoqualmie pass above Alpental ski area. Approach: from Alpental go to Source like, then ascend the snow slope W-SW, as if you are heading up to the Tooth. You should see them on your right, below the E face of the Chair. The ice is totally not in condition right.

Sounds like a sweet climb. Sounds like better rock conditions than I found on the Tooth up in Snoqualmie Pass on Tuesday (had to aid up a 5.3 pitch because the rock was ice-covered). I take it from your TR that the road to the trailhead there by Diamond Lake was open when you went up, no? Thanks!

better to give me a call. 503-261-3349

Avy conditions look good and the weather seems to be perking up, so I’m looking at a summit bid or two in the next few days before Christmas. I’m eyeing peaks in the North/Central Cascades such as Mt. Formidable and those around Darrington (White Horse, Three Fingers, White Chuck) but am open to other suggestions. If you are interested, give me a call (email is not as convenient). Below is my climbing ‘resume.’ I’m looking for people with comparable experience, especially avy skills. -Take care, Justin my cell: 503-261-3349 ___________________________________________________________________ CLIMBING ‘RESUME’ (Lead' or 'Followed' is specified on technical routes as appropriate) South Sister (10k'), NW Side, September (I,2: rock scrambling) Mt. Hood (11k'), Hogsback, March (I: 35° snow slopes ) Snowmass Peak (14k'), West Side, Colorado Rockies, June (II,3: 40° snow and rock scrambling) Capital Peak (14k'), East Ridge, Colorado Rockies, June (II,4: rock and 30° snow; followed) Mt Hood (11k'), Leuthold Couloir, June (II: 45° snow and glacier travel) Mt. Washington (7k'), North Ridge, July (I, 5.0: rock climbing; followed) Mt. Shuksan (9k'), Fischer Chimneys, July (III, 3: 45° ice and snow, glacier travel, rock scrambling) North Sister (Glisan Peak) (10k'), North Ridge, August (II, 4, rock scrambling) Three Fingered Jack (7k'), South Ridge, August (II, 5.0: rock climbing; followed) Middle Sister (10k'), South Side, August (I,2: rock scrambling) Outer Space, September (800', 5.8+, retreated on the 3rd pitch due to injury; followed) Unicorn Peak (7k’), SW Ridge, October (I, 5.4: rock climbing; lead) Mt. Hood (11k'), Devil's Kitchen Headwall, November (II: 60° snow and ice) I follow WI 4, climb 5.7 on sport lead and follow 5.8

Title Says it all. I'm builidng my rack and going for a load of hexes. Their weights are comparable, but their dimensions are a bit different, and I was wondering if folks found that made a difference in how versatile they were, or in how easily they place or hold a fall. Plus, Metolius offers that new curved design which they claim helps the hexes seat themselves while also making them easier to place over irregularities. Is that just marketing BS? Does any of this really matter at all?!?

Justin -He Who Fell- here. On all the future falls I'm planning, I'll be sure to wave...you're right, it's a nice consideration for would-be rescuers, b-rock, something I usually do when I get hit by cars on my bike And just to clarify, you guys, vw4ever was just a bit below me on the route, not at the parking lot when I fell (I'm not _that_ slow). That's why I have my whistle -Justin

Not sure if this counts as a _gear_ question... I'm buying new tires for my car (front-wheel drive) and was wondering what people recommend for shodding a mountaineering-wagon. I'm planning on heading into the Cascades every couple of week for climbs throughout the winter and spring. I want to be safe, but don't have tons of cash to throw at the issue. Basically, I'm trying to figure out if I should go with a dedicated set of studless snow tires or will all-season tires work OK since it's not like I'm living in Minnesota and driving to work in snow every day. Any suggestions apppreciated! -Justin

I was planning to take advantage of this little respite in the weather (NWAC is predicting light to moderate snow over the weekend and some clearing by Monday) to head up to Camp Muir on Monday, check things out. I"ll be snowshoeing up. Care to come along?

Thanks a lot, Norman. Good Info. If you go up the SW ridge, is the remaining danger going to be from slides above you on the ridge or is it due more to being below adjacent slopes, such as Glacier Vista? Are things pretty much clear once you're above Pan Point? Much appreciated, Justin

I was wondering what people's take was on the avy danger on the route to Camp Muir. Catbird seems to imply that one should only be concerned with the terrain above Muir, but at least on the Forest Service site they claim there is a large danger even at Panorama Point. I have yet to set a foot on Rainier, but was thinking of heading up to Muir in the next week or so. -Justin

Hey all, a couple of us are heading up Leuthold's on Mt Hood Monday morning, leaving Timberline about 1:00 AM. If you want to join us, let me know: justinrr@uchicago.edu -Ciao, Justin

Yeah, we passed right by the Bells. *Magnificant*. But we didn't have time to climb them and some in our party weren't really ready for that level of climbing. -Justin

The Chicago location I put down is just where I am *unfortunate* enough to go to school. I'm from Oregon and grew up in the Cascades climbing volcanoes. Just haven't been up north yet to check out those fine Washington mountains. And while I won't pretend I'm the oldest, rime-ice-encrusted gapher around, but I've done my beginners share of snow slogs and fourteeners (Snowmass and Capital in Colorado...yeah, I know they're the rockies and really don't count compared to our oh so manly Pacific NW peaks). Thanks for all the advice. Was just trying to get a sense of what generally to expect up there this time of year. -Justin

Any suggestions for other summits this time of year? I'd like to do Leuthold's on Hood, but that's gonna be avy prone right now, too. -Justin

UW Rock Pub Club Jacking pillars at Vantage etc. --Thanks. Are these going to be routes with less avy exposure? That'll probably be what it comes down to. Yeah, and here's my background for anyone checking me out: *South Sister (10,358', Oregon), Sept. 4th, 2001, Northwest route solo, class II *Oregon Mountaineering Association's Basic Mountaineering weekend class, Sept. 2001 *Mt. Hood (11,239' , Oregon), March 24th, 2002, South Side "Hogsback" route, class III *Snowmass Mountain (14,092', Colorado), June 10th, 2002, Southwest route, class III *Capital Peak (14130', Colorado), June 13th, 2002, Knife Ridge route, class IV I've also done some rock climbing on and off and a little bit of ice climbing.

Yep, it stinks to have no park service reports this time of year, but thanks for the hint on Longmire and y'all for the first-hand info. Trust, me, I got my eyes glewed to the NWAC and NOAA reports every day. -Justin

Was wondering what the crevasse and avalanche situation looked like on the Ingraham glacier and icefall. I've never been on the mountain before, so are these objective hazards very substantial at this time of year on this route? I'm thinking snowbridges would be consistenly solid. How abou the seracs? Is Disappointment Cleaver a safer rout to avoid the upper Ingraham? Thanks. -Justin

Hello All, I'll be in the NW from the 21st-29th of March and am interested in climbing Rainier (or anything else fun). I've never been on it before and was thinking of just doing the Ingraham Direct or the Disappointment Cleaver route. You can email me at justinrr@uchicago.edu. Resume available upon request, as they say. -Ciao, Justin