Justin_RR

I didn't go up on Saturday. Looks like the weather tomorrow, Monday, should be good, and I'd be up for giving it a try, or later in the week. It looks like temps will be rising and snow coming down, though, so I'm not sure it will be in good condition.

Looking at something quick Saturday. This rain-soaked/now frozen snow might make some good firm conditions for Chair's NF. I'd be up for similar climbs, too. It makes me feel weird to think of going to the same area where those two folks died on Sunday, so soon after. But this is the playground we have chosen, and Nature can be a mean Mama... I'm easier to reach via email: j.rolfe.redding@gmail.com, or by phone: 503-261-3349 (I live in Seattle).

I really like the Heliums. Light, full size, smooth latch, wire gate. Pretty much has it all. I would concur that he gate is the right stiffness. Only complaint (besides price!) is that the wire gate is very thin (the two wires are not very far apart), making it a bit more difficult to handle and clip the rope into than, say, a BD Hotwire. I still vote Petzl Spirit as best for overall feel and specifically orgasmic gate-opening.

I've got a pair. They probably have about the 30 days worth of climbing that Jake put on them, and they are still going strong. My frontpoints come out farther, too. Have climbed vert ice in them.

Recent snow might make a climb like Maude difficult.

I was planning to hit Index on Fri, but not sure if it will dry out in time...Let's check in tomorrow.

Check pms.

Want to take advantage of weather window and get out there. Willing to take a chance at Washington Pass... think S. aspects might be snow free? Enchantments, Dreamer, cragging in Leavenworth... I'm free Friday night onward into next week I'm not online much so calling is better than PM. Cell: 503-261-3349 (I'm in Seattle).

weather break! Index or Exit 38 climb? I won't be online, so call me: 503-261-3349 -Justin

Hit me up when you're back in town. Similar experience and some of the same objectives. -Justin

Hey kids, This forcast has got me psyched. I'm up for hitting some cold-weather alpine routes (or just ice-cragging), in the coming days. Was thinking Big Four NF, Chair NF, Colchuck NE Buttress, etc. I am currently lucky enough to have a pretty open schedule (suckers!), so I could do any day/multi-day, you name it. -J

One last couple days in the N Cascades before the shit really piles in? I'm leading 5.8ish these days, up for long free routes. -Justin cell (503) 261-3349

I've spent to much time recently just getting to the tops of insignificant cliffs (I think they call this 'rock climbing'). It's time to climb some real mountains and get back into the alpinism action. I'm free thurs-onwards, weathe permitting. PM me.

I was up at Hubba Hubba on Saturday... Wazzu's right, the flow there is indeed "thin, runout, and scary..." We didn't feel comfortable leading it, so we spent most of the day looking for a toprope anchor. To no avail...I'd say it's climable- the first 15 ft had ok, solid water ice (screws were causing some unreassuring fracturing, though). Higher up, it's a crap shoot whether the ice is very thick. vw4ever- The area certainly hasn't been dumped on (then again, we were just under 3k'). Down by the trailhead we're talking a foot of snow at most, and around 3,000' maybe two feet, with the base of the climbs, being under a cliff, receiving more wind loading and getting to thigh-level. Definitely bring snowshoes if venturing higher. Things were pretty warm and clear, actually. Probably upper 20's. I'm looking at heading back up there when we get another weather break, so anybody go ahead and give me a holler if you're headed out. -Ciao, Justin

I was through Marblemount and up Thunder Creek this weekend, and everything was totally snow free. Snow levels will have to get down below about 1800' at least before that road will see any white action...

You see that sunshine? Sure you do. That means we climb! I'm up for anything, N. Cascades to Hood. I'm also free every day! Some routes I'm eyeing... Shuksan N. Face Hood N. Face Colchuck N Buttress Couloir Mt. Stuart Ice Cliff Glacier, Stuart Glacier Couloir Email (justin.rr@gmail.com) beats PM's for me. Cell is even better: 503-261-3349. *I'm a safe, (moderately) experienced climber, and I'm looking for the same. We should know and be comfortable with each other's climbing backgrounds before heading out.*

check pms.

How were road conditions? Could you drive all the way to the TJ trailhead?

We all like to eat and , and we all would like to see the forests kept intact (if you can call the current state of things "intact"). Therefore, if my logic holds, you should all enjoy showing up for a potluck tonight (Monday) up in the U-District. A few of us working on a forest protection campaign are holed up together in a house at 5236 20th Ave. NE, and we'll be eating, drinking and shooting the shit from 6:00-onwards. You should definitely drop by, eat, drink and be merry, and wish me luck on my Buckner attempt on Tuesday. Any questions? Give me a ring at (503) 261-3349 -Justin *Rainforest Action Network*

I'm headed out on Friday, so if you are interested in doing anything through the weekend, try my cell: 503-261-3349. I should be in town Friday evening. I'm considering E. side routes to limit avy exposure: Stuart's Ice Cliff Glacier, or Colchuck Peak's Colchuck Glacier or North Buttress Couloir. Also, if anyone wants a day at Hubba Hubba Hill, I'm crossing my fingers that that's in condition...Maybe Hope, too?

Friday looks Sunny. That means I climb. Let me know what you want to do. Also looking at longer routes through the weekend. My skills: intermediate alpine, 5.8 rock with trad experience, steep snow, glaciers, WI5.

First, let's not let this become a "my city is better!" spray-fest... Currently living in Portland, I'm considering moving to Seattle pretty much for the sole reason that it is closer to the lovely alpine routes of the northern Cascades (I'm sick of volcanoes!). This would shave about 2:30-2:50 (or more, depending on traffic) off the drive to most routes. I want to know if you all think such a difference in distance is significant enough that it would really affect how often you climb and how long the routes are that you do. Making the move would be a big hastle for me. If the only difference is that Portland climbers get less sleep on a drive to or from a climb, I'd be willing to suffer through that. But if you think that a Seattle "base camp" really improves your logistical ability to do more climbs, longer climbs and better climbs than were you to live in Portland, then that matters to me. In other words, are there certain ascents that are doable in a weekend from Seattle that become very difficult or slightly impossible from Portland? Your thoughts are appreciated.

Thanks! We'll check that out next time. We were on a small (40 ft) little wall to climbers left of Silver Bullet, trying not to scratch up an beloved rock routes!

NOLSe and I will be drytooling at Rocky at 4:00, if anyone wants to join the fun. We will be climbers left of silver bullet wall.

it's sunny, and I want out. If you have off this afternoon, give me a ring and we can hit Rocky Butte or something. Email's and PM's won't catch me, so dial 503-261-3349. I'm down with top roping, or better yet a bit of trad action. -Justin