glassgowkiss

I would only add, that these things should be named as incidents, not accidents. There is a string of events and decisions that lead to injury or death, not some bad luck.

Here are details about second accident. As you see- easy preventable: https://rockandice.com/climbing-accidents/squamish-fatality-ken-anderson-top-trad-climber-dies-in-fall/?fbclid=IwAR1WyTKogNL5YxCoPVgy3oLiM6dnGg-Atiea3iy483MTXREqodaCFfk_9XE&cn-reloaded=1

Revenue or not, and public safety claims or not, this is a dangerous thing to accept. Basically USFS has to consult with effected user groups and allow for public comment period. This needs to be stopped, not because of the principal, but because of the process, or rather lack off. If this is allowed to be implemented, there will be more arbitrary decisions made, possibly effecting climbers in a very direct way.

Don't know any details on the latest. 6 weeks ago, looks like some sort of mistake/miscommunication. Apparently he fell 30m, as starting to follow a pitch on Grand Wall. Either miscommunication with leader or mistake in setting up a belay. Second one happened on New Life, below Astro Ledge.

There was a second, fatal accident on the Chief within 6 weeks. Wonder if it's just due to general increase in number of climbers? But having two back to back accidents like this is a bit a new thing. I remember several rescues from the Chief, but mostly for fractures or dislocations/sprains.

This adds nothing to what we already knew. It's pointless sensationalism, basically click and bait, because death sells. It's like releasing dashcam footage from an accident. Analyzing an accident is a good tool for others to learn, this serves absolutely no purpose.

Yes- Coleman Deming Exactly, it will be 20-30 min in the bowling alley.

Yeah, still can get up and down around that crevasse, but it is pretty exposed section to serac fall. Probably moving fast through that section would be a good idea.

BTW, C/D Glacier is done for the season. A massive crevasse opened, basically making it impossible to cross safely.

BTW, I was West of Rainier at Riff Lake, and by Sunday early afternoon it was pretty obvious storm was moving in. At 3500ft level winds picked up significantly and cloud was pointing to high moisture, strong wind combination. By 2 pm Rainier was engulfed in clouds.

Says who? Melting of ice off the mountains significantly added to risk factor. North Faces in the Cascades were routinely done mid summer, now they would be nearly suicidal. Because of climate change, risk factors went up. It was showing in the Alps already since the 90's, but it's showing now here as well.

Low temps will minimize rock fall. Hence you have less chance of being hit, when everything is frozen solid, and rockfall starts when stuff starts melting. Avi in 2014 was a snow field cutting lose at night, possibly triggered from higher up, but it was a wet slab. Yes, wrong place at the wrong time, but from risk management perspective, the less time you spent in a danger zone, the less chances of getting injured/killed you'll have. Regarding Howse Peak accident: Rockies is a very specific place and very dangerous place due to very very different snowpack. Many visiting climbers underestimate that place, and are not familiar with the specifics. When I started climbing there in the early 90's I was lacking understanding of snow dynamics in the range. Only after spending several seasons there, I developed a better sense of the place. Routes on East Face of Howse would be gang-banged classics, but they are surrounded by some of the worst avi terrain in the range. The trio probably underestimated conditions.

Yes on chicken wire, but if you go there on Friday or Saturday, there might be no parking. There is water at Applebee. I was drinking it without filtering or boiling for about 2 weeks total and never was sick. You can use Kain hut during bad weather/rest day. Yes, they do have electricity, not sure what the policy on recharging would be. However I find hiking down and up almost 600m in elevation difference is not much of a rest day. Applebee is better for climbing and staying. It's quieter at night, can get better sleep, and you save an hour of walking every day, compared to when you stay in the Hut.

That is a case with many, many objectives. Particularly Canadian Rockies seasons have changed. Winter carries higher risk of avalanches on routes like LR, so pretty much not getting around risks involved. I think the only way to do it is being acclimatized and fit, and do it in one push, minimizing risks. Few years back, there was a party killed by an avalanche higher up, remember?

Regarding car rental: For one, yes- you need to add insurance , which makes rental more $$$, but it's a must. Second, can you handle traffic and how they drive there, particularly in smaller towns?

Volcano is a volcano. Do not expect technical aspect in either place. Also 1 week is a very short trip, so travel time counts.

Probably after June 01.

I though it's climbing site, and we were talking rockfall on climbing routes. I think you mistakenly logged into cascadelimbers, but intended on some form of hiking site?

One week MX would be far better- shorter travel time, and cheaper flights. If you speak rudimentary Spanish, there is zero reason for guide/travel service to get around. Just keep low profile and don't travel at night.

That is exactly my point of being suicidal. And a comment "good job" should be replaced as "you are fucking nuts, and stay away from me". Paragliding has way different safety culture, and people who take unnecessary risks are being shunned.

I don't know when classic Price Glacier was last climbed, but considering the shape it's in, it would be probably pretty suicidal at the moment. Last 10 years classic NF of Shuksan is basically falling apart, with large secions of rock being exposed by mid summer. So not a landslide, but glacial retreat due to climate change. Not Cascades, but Bugaboo/Snowpatch is usually too dangerous to be on by July. It suffered numerous large slides, with the biggest probably about 12 years ago. It would be interesting to study what caused this incredible demise of Joffre, and my understanding is that there were only a few slides of that magnitude in last several thousands of years. Another rockfall nobody mentioned yet is the Chief-top of Zodiac, taking out a section of Northern Lights area. Probably second largest rockfall, after Joffre.

It's reopening this Thursday!

This is one of the best safety and educational films I have seen. I think it can refresh a few things:

You can watch Dawn Wall on Netflix.

Go a bit later in the season, bring about 1/2 of food for your trip. Probably at least 50% of people on West Butt will leave early or bail from 14K camp, most of people leaving basecamp and 14K will have a ton of food and will try to leave it. The reason people don't summit is not because they are hungry, but because they did not train enough.