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bDubyaH

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Everything posted by bDubyaH

  1. N. Ridge of Mt. Blackburn

    There is a route description here
  2. Worst Excuse To Not Climb

    "I just don't feel that motivated" After driving three hours to climb, he turned around and went home. Last time I climbed with him
  3. double rope crevasse rescue

    Oh yeah, and some of the crevasses are so big it doesn't matter how much rope you have. They can swallow a couple of school buses . But the trail to the climbing shoud be well set by the time you get there...makes it safer?
  4. double rope crevasse rescue

    Hike with one rope, pack the other in a sled. No reason to load two ropes up with water and have them freeze into cables. Knots in the rope are nice, practice moving past them.
  5. foot question

    Do the flick test, flick your toe straight on and if any part other than what you flicked hurts, it's probably broken. Works on fingers anyway I busted my pinky toe, and shoved on the climbing shoes 15 minutes later, sent the route...threw my shoes down from the top. My pinky is a bit curled under these days, but it fits in my climbig shoes real well
  6. Alaska Range Weather Report

    Here is a great link to the weather in the AK Rangeweather It is off of the Denali stats page. Almost 1100 climbers heading up Denali this year and only 44 up Foraker, whats up that Foraker is the better looking mountain of the two. Seems the north side of the range has gotten little snow, and is drier than usual, but the southside has a good snowpack.
  7. Alaska Range Weather Report

    I only wear lycra tights when I'm cranking miles on my road bike, and the only sunny warm granite we're climbing around here sticks out of either a. the ocean or b. an ice field the size of Rhode Island. Have fun climbing
  8. Tokositna Glaesher

    I agree with Alpine K Isn't the Tokositna a huge mess, I think I heard it mentioned with the words impossible once. Plus with that big earthquake we had last year who knows what it looks like now
  9. Sewing Machine Leg

    CBS, a nice relaxed breath to get focused usually helps, plus it makes placing a piece easier. often times when i am climbing i start to whistle, it helps calm me down for the hard sends, and pisses my partners of to boot. nothing like whistling your way through the crux making it look easy, especially when they don't know that i do it to relax.
  10. Devils Thumb

    i believe that juneau mountain rescue is going to go in and do a search in a few weeks, after the avalanches have abated a bit.
  11. favorite, least favorite items brought to Denali?

    oh yeah, i believe that they are fixing ropes at denali pass this year (sight of most west butt accidents). should be interesting to see what the response is to that.
  12. Overheard on the way to Certain Doom

    man if you can think it up someone has tried it up here, guranteed. I have seen people moving closer to brownies with a camera to their head, not really aware of how close they are getting, people also like to approah moose for some reason as well...in my opinion some of them need to get . i have enough problems getting chased by moose and shit when i'm out running. people intentionally messing with them (like the guy in anchorage who jumped on a moose's back) i have no sympathy for when the pain comes.
  13. favorite, least favorite items brought to Denali?

    Hey Alpinfox, I just checked out your Denali TR, and in the second photo you guys packing your shit up. Was there a dirt bag guy passed out on the couch next to you there, so stinking drunk that the mosquitos didn't even bother with me that night. We had just gotten out of little switzerland that day and tried to hobo the train back to anchorage, i almost got caught, but my buddy made it to los anchorage, borrowed a car and was back in talkeetna in time for 10 am breakfast! You guys weren't the ones cooking your breakfast on an msr were you, cause I told those guys to go buy a meal they were in for 3 weeks of cooking gruel on a crappy stove
  14. favorite, least favorite items brought to Denali?

    landed on the pika glacier last year, there were seven women and three men. beautiful sunny weather. and we were the only ones who bothered to bring any alcohol made you want to go visit the other campsites a bit more often! so yeah, i second Erik, take a "hot chick" along
  15. Best (Cheapest) Source for Gear

    lowest prices = bro deals get a part time in a gym or shop, or be really nice to a bro.
  16. favorite, least favorite items brought to Denali?

    yeah, don't forget your sunscreen, we are having a scorcher of a spring up here. The air services even remarked in the anchorage daily on how much easier it is to set up basecamp without the usual extra 15' o'snow. Take lots of 50 iso film for all of the sunny weather.
  17. Overheard on the way to Certain Doom

    "UUMMMFF", followed by the ka-ching of a solo lead climbers ice axe dropping 20 ft, (he had leashes ) followed by the crumpling sound as he landed 3 feet away from me on the nice flat, although really hard river ice.
  18. Feel Me Flow

    What kind of pussies are they, why don't they have those really huge exhaust pipes on their rides? I love that motorcycle sound they make I hope those guys save some photos and check them out ten years from now. hahaha
  19. Booty

    That is just too damn funny. So why exactly was everything covered in hot pepper?
  20. Booty

    Alasdair. We ate at the gendarme on crosson late june/early july 2000', if that was your grub then thanks. i owe you
  21. Booty

    we found a whole trashbag full of cliff bars and snickers at 10000' on mt. foraker. always one for free food I found out on the first bite of a snickers that everything was covered in spicy pepper. but hey it was free food that i didn't have to carry so whos complaining. also found a pair of women's underwear a few pitches up cannon mt in new hampshire. i don't think i really want to know what that was from
  22. Glacier Wands

    I have seen these wands on the Kahiltana glacier before. They were all on their sides and melted about a foot into the glacier. I don't think I have ever seen one standing fully upright, and they are really difficult to find even on a nice day. Bamboo works better, plus they are a good excuse for a wand making beer drinking party.
  23. Anchorage climbing

    scott~ in short, if you make even minimal effort to get outside and meet a few like minded people in anchorage you will have a blast. i highly recommend going for the summer. cheers!
  24. Anchorage climbing

    hasn't los anchorage been kicking people outta their shacks in girdweed the last few years?
  25. Anchorage climbing

    climbing: there is the roadcut along the Seward highway, not the greatest, but there are also climbs in the chugach on the wedge etc., best place to go is up by Palmer at Hatcher's Pass. Check out The Scar and this site mt biking: tons of it. chugach, kenai, even some fun trails in anchorage, just stop in to one of the bike shops and ask. kayaking: pretty much everything you could want to paddle, if you are good then go to Hope, (across turnagain arm from Anchorage) you will not be dissapointed. Glacier climbing: yeah, go to the matanuska or portage or exit, plus a million other possible places, tons of summer mountaineering. There are all sorts of trails to run and hike in the chugach and with the easy access and proximity to town and 20+ hours of daylight. Anchoarge is a blast if you spend most of your time outside.
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