bubblebutt

I have found it also depends on the lenght of your ice-axe . I like a short axe and this puts me out of balance on a shallower slope and then adjustable poles feel more in balance but on steeper snow, my short axe feels just right. I now compromise and use a short axe in my up hill hand and a pole in my other. My axe is I think 55 cm which always seems to be way shorter than the standard axes my buddies bring but I think it's better for when you really need it on the steeper slopes. IMO.

nozone- best alpine pack made although wild things andinista a close second imo

Anybody got any recent beta on Shale via the Arm? Where is the snow level etc?

I agree, i think it would be better in early May. Much colder but more solid, awesome area though, eh!

True, but I ain't no Donini and will never be. Just an ordinary guy living the dream, trying hard, having fun, growing and learning every trip.If you take you argument to the extreme and can only attempt things in the style that the ultimate alpinist has accomplished e.g. Donini-no radios ,then you shouldn't use a rope on some of your climbs on your beloved Chief as they have been free-soloed before. The best climber is the one having the most fun-Alex Lowe

I agree and I enjoyed the feeling of remoteness even though it's scary aswell and we planned etremely well for the trip and had extra fuel, food, a pretty good medical kit and bomber camps so we could pretty much weather anything. However when the option was sitting for 4 days watching avalanches I'm glad I had a sattelite phone.

We where self-sufficient anf if the phone hadn't worked we would have happily sat it out until the plane arrived. The problem for me was that with the heavy packs we where carrying and the snow conditions. a large crevasse fall would have probably resulted in an injury that potentially coundn't be treated for a long period. Even Jack Tackle when he recently had an accident in the St. Elias range on Mt. Augusta had a satellite phone with him that was used to call in a rescue and potentailly saved his life. Tackle is one of the most experienced Alaskan climbers and if he thinks he needs a working sattelite phone then so do I. Going into that area without one is fucking stupid IMO.

I've just moved from Santa Fe where I lived and climbed for 8 years. PM me and I'll give you the scoop.

Yep, we could see Jarvis, Wrangell and Blackburn. Blackburn is huge and the whole time we where there it had a lenticular and storm clouds over it even though we where 5 miles away in perfect weather. Paul Klaus says Blackburn is a real scary mountain and that he doesn't like it because it seems to have a dangerous micro-climate. I agree Aslaka is the tops and don't mind losing one to her. Here's to Alaska and glorious failure.

Trip Report for attempt on Atna and Rime peaks in Wrangell-St.Elias range, Alaska I with two buddies had planed a trip to this remote range in eastern Alaska to attempt Atna and Rime peaks. Although I have Alaska experience, we had based our trip upon the new " Alaska, A Climbing Guide"book which described both peaks as Alaska Grade 1 and being very moderate although remote. We flew into Anchorage on Friday , June 6th and were supposed to be picked up by Pual Klaus of Ultima Thule on the Saturday morning for a 6 hour car ride to Chitina for fly in by ski-equipped plane. Three hours after the scheduled pickup time we got an e-mail to the Bed & Breakfast we where staying in telling us that they had forgotten us because they where moving some cabins at their lodge and we should go to a certain motel in Anchorage where an Ulitma Thule mini-van was parked and drive ourselves to Chitina by 7.00 pm. We got the message at 1.30pm and after much confusion we drove to Chitina at a terrifying speed. After arriving at this dirt strip in the middle of nowhere, the plane arrived at 7.30pm and we threw our bags in and where heading for the Nebesna Glacier. We landed on the glacier at 7,300 ft at 8.30 pm, threw our bags out and Paul was gone in a matter of minutes. As the plane receeded from view the utter remoteness of where we where sunk in. The nearest human was probably 40 miles away, there where no other climbers,no nothing, not like the Kalhitna on Denali one bit. First realization was that the guide book was full of shit, the West ridge of Atna looked like Alaksa Grade 3/4, knife edged, 50-60 degrees, super exposed ,the Ptarmagin ridge on Rainier on steroids. Rime Peak looked moderate, similar to Emmons Glacier on Rainier . There was lots of new snow and the crevasses were mostly covered. We put on AT skis,roped up and at 9.00 Pm set off for our first camp wich we wanted to establish at 9500 ft. At about 1.00 am I was crossing a large open crevasse by what seemed a large snow bridge. 30 feet out, the snow bridge started disintegrating towards me like a zipper, two quick steps and I managed to get onto what seemed like firm ground as the ground behing me disappeared. The snow bridge collapsing set of a chain reaction and the 10 foot of overhanging cornice on the side of the crevasse peeled off for approximately 60 feet from where I was standing and fell into the crevasse with a roar. I was lucky, a spilt second too late and I would have faced a 30-40 fall into the crevasee with a 85 lb load on my back. I was shit scared and had to traverse a considerable distance laterally to find another snow bridge to bring my buddies across. Nerves shot we found what we hoped was a firm area and after probing, set up camp. Next morning, we tried to use our sattelite phone to let our SO's that we were Ok. It wouldn't pick up a signal. Without that we had no means of communication and that coupled with the snow conditions really made me nervous. We decided that the first thing we had to do was find a new route back to the landing zone as the way we had come up was too dangerous. We waited out the heat of the day. It was terribly hot, avalanches where crashing down everywhere and the snow became really mushy. By evening, a lenticular had formed over the mountains above us and a cool breeze helped firm up the snow but it was still dangerously warm. We wanded a new way back to the LZ and I decided that the trip was over. Conditions where just too dangerous and we too remote without communications other than a pre-arranged pick up time, six days hence. Although we all had good crevasse experience, the chances of a serious injury in the event of a big fall where too large. My gut said pack it in and I always follow my gut. We moved camp back to the LZ and set in for a long wait. One of the guys started working on the phone and managed to get it working . The attenna was not properly connected and must have got loose during packing as we had tested it before departure. The only way to contact Paul was to phone my wife in Seattle and ask her to e-mail him for and early pick up. This we did but she had got no reply by the following evening and being more confident now we had the phone working decided to attempt a smaller peak across the glacier we felt we could get up in one night. Conditions where cooler and we travelled about 2miles across the glacier crossed a massive bergshund and simu-climbed using pickets for protection up an approximately 45 deg slope for about a 1000 ft. We reached a saddle but the ridge ahead was heavily corniced and by this time temps where rising again and the sound of avalanches starting to be heard. We down climbed, crossed what was now a soggy, sagging bridge over the bershund and went back to camp after 5 hours on the go. Next day we where picked up by Paul at 11.00 am and drove his van back to Anchorage.. We then went to Skagway and decided to use up our excess energy by hiking the Chilkoot trail into the Yukon which we did, and that's antother story. Many lessons learnt, friendships solidified and adventure had. The Wrangells are awesome but extremely remote. I'll go back but will go to less remote areas until I feel experienced enough to tackle them again.

Buy some black diamond flintlock poles you cheap scottish bastard! ( i'm also a cheap scottish bastard so I'm allowed to say that)

I'm flying in with Pual of Ultima Thule on June 6th for attempts at Atna and Rime Peaks which are adjacent to Mt.Backburn with two of my buddies.We plan to be back in Seattle by 15th/16th June so contact me by PM and I'll let you know what the conditions are.Can confirm the $550 flight cost and Paul is only one who flies in at that time of year.

For the sake of clarity, are we talking physical age or mental age because there seems to be quite a disparity between the two on this web site?

What was the avy danger like on ellinor. I want to get out but am very cautious at the moment with regards avy, but I've got cabin fever and need to get out???

Thanks DOX, wow thats a lot of money, hopefully the other guys I called will be substanitally cheaper. I'll let you know what happens for your future reference. Good luck on the Kalhiltna. Are you going for one of the big three( Hunter, Foraker, Denali) or satellite peaks such as Francis and The Control Tower?

Not much of a rock climber for rock climbing's sake but into alpine and mountaineering in a big way and occasional trips to Levenworth and Vantage to be humiliated by my 11 year old who flashes 5.10's and now gives me tips( Dad, your'e overpowering your moves" Etc.) . Am now old fart like you (45) so can't keep up with young crowd but can outlast them! Looking for partner also to continue exploration N. Cascades classics. PM if interested, only been here a year myself.

I've been trying to get bushplane prices all morning and have about four companies working on a quote for me so I haven't seen dollars yet. Prepare me for the sticker shock. How much did they quote you? Me and my partner are going and looking for a third climber for safey reasons. Sure youre not interested??

I am planning a June trip to Nabesna glacier in Wrangell-Saint Elias mountains for climbing on Atna & Rime peaks. Have latest book "Alsaka, A Climbing Guide" that gives info on peaks but has anybody in cc.com world got any first hand knowledge??

I'm looking for some alpine this weekend. what you got it mind?? PM me.

Flatland, what you doing? lying on the couch reading all those guide books and longing to be out here! I was onced moved by my company to Miami and spent all my time dreaming of the mountains, in the end I quite my job and moved back to an area with alpine climbing. Life's too short to spend time in the flatlands. MOVE!

The exertion of summit day on Ptarmagin must be the crux, and since it is a carry over likely hood of success would be greater with out the extra weight . . . Any one have a Bibler for sale? Rent it dude,Backpackers Supply in Tacoma or Marmot Mountain Works in Redmond rent them. I think about $40 a day.

I think that with Iraq out of the way we should now concentrate on the Canadians. I'm sick of waiting in line at the border and that BC and Alberta should be part of the US. They can keep the rest. Let's start a Conquer Canada Campain!

Where is this place exactly. I'm planning a trip to Patagonia and this looks very intersting. Anybody got beta!!!

I can understand your desire to carry the lightest load possible and I'm guessing that you are trying to avoid carrying a tent, BUT last year the top 2,000 ft of Rainier was hard ice causing many accidents and deaths due to teams slipping and failing to self-arrest. To rely on being able to dig snow caves on your desired route would be quite a chance and not one I would take.Although the DC is a hump, tourist route etc, it's a very serious mountainwhen the weather comes in. Don't do it. You can rent a bibler tent from Backpacker's Supply in Tacoma if that's the issue.

Sounds good to me, confirm nearer the date and I'll be there!