cracked

You 'solo' third class? It's called walking.

According to the Smith-hardman authored guidebook (I think Chris Jones wrote it, if I remember correctly), Limpdick is 11b and Satisfaction is 12a. I've led limpdick and almost toproped Satisfaction, so maybe you're right.

I soloed that when I was 12 years old with a 65 year old man. Thump....thump....thump...

I got a !!!!

I haven't prereleased! Seems to work fine even inbounds. If/when I get better and start prereleasing, I'll crank them up. I guess I'm just not as cool as you.

But Impact Force also depends on the elastic modulus of the rope ....not to mention friction of the rope through biners and the dynamics of the belay and and and....

I have my bindings set pretty low...6.5 I think? I release pretty often, but I use leashes so it's not a problem. I haven't prereleased since the first day I used them.

solution: use a real ax and deal the with 'extra' 5 ounces. spend your dividend on packable champagne glass and chopsticks. Hard to ski with a axe rather than a pole. When I've got the ducats I'm shelling out for a pair of whippets...price be damned.

You make as much sense as the SheepShagger himself, CrazyPolishDude.

The old guidebook puts Limpdick at 11b, though I agree that once you've got it wired it's pretty easy. A set of cams and a set of nuts should cover pretty much anything.

A screamer rips if the force on it is greater than the activation force. How much energy is dissipated by the screamer is constant, the force is irrelevant so long as it's greater than the activation force. Once the screamer is fully ripped, then we start getting interested in the true force. But that's not what we're talking about. My previous example simply illustrated that a screamer has a non-negligible effect on reducing the force on pro, Mmmmkay?

Nope, site was down.

Dru flunked out of HS physics.

Sure, but I think GC has a reason to be disappointed with the outcome of this trip. If you turn around after struggling on for hours and you're exhausted, that's one thing. But to turn around when you REALLY don't want to, that's another.

That's such total bullshit. It's a failure if you didn't reach your goal, and failure is frustrating. It might have been cool anyway, you might have learned something up there, but it's still failure. Sorry to hear that you didn't make it. Nice TR.

Yeah, Dru, I'm on the Boreals myself....but they're awfully boxy for foot jams.

If you're trying hard not to get pulled over, it seems logical to drive a vehicle that doesn't attract attention, and drive in a way that doesn't attract attention.

Hayduke Lives! The Monkeywrench Gang rawks! Too bad the sequel blows.

But only if they fit you. I've never found a 5.10 sport shoe that was even remotely large enough for my feet. So I can't have an opinion. I can't understand why they don't make size 14 anasazis!

ticket

You got a ticket for breaking no laws? And if you get caught driving around with a suspended license, what do you expect?

Poor bastard. What are you bitching about? Should you be paid when you break the law? Should you only get a ticket if you've got the money to pay it? Isn't your argument non-existant?