kevinoregon

I always see people sticking cams straight into a crack. If fell on, it may hold or it may not. One thing is certain though. It will have to move in line with the direction of fall, so when it is placed it must be placed in the direction of fall just like all other pieces. Then there is the issue of the force on all the other pieces below it. When the rope goes tight, it could pull other pieces out below. Then what happens if the cam pulls? You got it...whaaaaaaaaa. Quickdraws should not be used for trad.

So many times I see good climbers who will continually drop it down a few grades before they will lead trad. Falling on a bolt is one thing, but falling on a chunk of steel and cable stuck in a crack is quite another. How do you know if it will really hold unless you fall on it? If you are just starting to lead, even the thought of falling on a bolt can paralyze you with fear. How do we get over it? I remember my battle with the fear all those years ago. The skin scraped off my body as I used it to try to slow my decent. Hanging on to an edge until my fingers just couldn't hold on any more. The paralyzing fear. I know how I got over it. I fell. I always pushed my limits, so fell a lot. Now I don't even worry about it. Until last year, I had not taken a long fall on gear for at least 12 years and what did I do when I got my hands all tied up and out of sequence? Just let go and pushed off with my last piece at least 15 feet below me. So, here are a few tips that I picked up along the way: 1. Climb with someone experienced to check your placements. Good placements are not only about the chock in the crack. It is also about where the chock is. What is below you if you do fall? How far to your next stance? Put in two pieces if you can see a long runout through a crux section. 2. Maybe try some aid climbing to gain experience and confidence 3. Once you know you are in the habit of good placements, push your limits. You will never get over the fear of falling unless you fall and you will never fall if you always drop it down a few grades. Lets hear some other stories about the battle with the mind.

I will be heading up there and could use someone to climb with on at least Sat and Sun. Get in touch if you want to climb or if you wouldn't mind a third on some .8-.10s. If anyone wants a ride from Portland, I will be driving.

So, how it go? Lets hear a report.

Yes, this is exactly what I wanted to know, thx

I don't know what it is, but it looks sweet. I know I am going to have to put it on my list when I finally find out what it is.

I have a question about the Open Book route in Tahquitz. We were standing at the bottom of it last week and my partner says the guide says that several 3"" to 4"" pieces are handy. Not required, but handy. It has always been my experience that there is a difference between handy and requrired, so I want to go since we have at least 3 pieces of that size, but he will not. So the question is: Can this climb be adaquately protected with just a few of the larger sizes?

One of the things I love about climbing is the feeling I get when I am climbing above my gear. Once out there, every move requires risk analysis and sometimes falling is not an option. One of the scariest was not a long runout, but my feet were 8 ft above a small stopper that I did not feel real good about and the moves were through the 11a crux on a blank section of wall. I finally got back into crack below a roof, but was too tired to hang and put something in. Even though the runout was not great, the ground would be next if the stopper blew. It is in those moments where you find out where your head is at. I think we all know what will happen if panic sets in. I did the only thing I could. I made another move through the roof and found a good stance. This year I took about a 30 ft fall on a bomber stopper. It was the first time I have fallen that far in about 10 years or more. I pulled the crux move the second time. I had to cause I knew there would not be enough for a third try. When I am feeling good and my head is in the right place, crux moves above my gear can be exciting. So yeah, I will run it out on hard moves. Not 100 ft out. Risking a 20 or 30 ft fall is plenty run out for me and I will try to stay away from the 'falling is not an option' situations, but if you find yourself in one of those situation being able to keep a cool head will likely get you through it.

Hey, I'm looking for someone to head up from PDX for the weekend. Fri, Sat, Sun or Sat, Sun, Mon. I will be climbing in the 9s, 10s, 11s or so.

Don't forget about all those long beautiful friction climbs in LCC up on the Fin 10a-11. The S-Crack (8) leading up to the S-Direct (9+)is a fine outing too.

Never mind, change of plans. I am going kayaking.

I find myself partnerless after planning a trip to Smith. Anyone from PDX and we can ride together or I can meet you there if coming from somewhere else. I will be climbing in the .9s-.11s.

I could be talked into going out if we can work it out. I am off at 3p. Check your PMs

Did anyone make it to this meeting? What was discussed? Lets here the details.

The City is great. Over 1000 climbs to choose from. A few days would not be enough. If you want a new place to climb, but don't want to drive that far, just drive as far as SLC and spend the time in Little Cotton Wood and Big Cottonwood canyons. Little Cottonwood is the best with up to 700' cliffs of glacier smoothed granite. The few days you have will not be enough to touch it all, but if you have never been there it is far superior to the City. I may even be there myself on the 25th.

OK so this thread is getting pretty long, but I can't help throwing in my experience of the difference between trad and sport. Before I moved to the NW, there was NO difference in my mind between trad and sport. The distinction was never made. I was just looking through my climbing guides from the Salt Lake City and the City of Rocks where all the climbs I have ever done are coded with the type of style I used on the climb. I am a strong leader of everything up to 11c and have been known to lead up to 12b. Of the leads in my comfort zone (up to 11a or 11b), I noticed that there were equal numbers of flash leads (onsite lead with no falls) on trad and sport. It made no difference to me if it was bolted or if I needed gear. Many climbs were a combination of the two. I think the only difference between trad and sport is the difference we place on it in our minds. Our level of fear will determine if the climb is climbable or not. If you have never taken a hard fall on natual protection you may have a lower fear factor than someone who has taken many falls on natural protection. If you wonder if that stopper is placed good enough to take a fall you will have a lower fear factor than someone who knows without a doubt that the stopper is well placed and can take a fall. My own fear factor sometimes forces me to put in a couple good pieces before the crux of a climb or after a long run out. So once again, the only difference between trad and sport is fear. I agree with the orginal post in this thread. 10a is 10a whether it is trad or sport. It is the same with all the grades. The only difference is fear. OK, I'm done.

No problem. You climb the climbs that will be in the sun early in the day and move to the shady sides when it gets hot. There are plenty on both sides. You definately get an early start though.

I lived in northern Utah for a good number of years and have done alot of climbing in the City. I too have been wanting to get back down there. I could also show you some absolutely beautiful climbing on the 700-800 ft cliffs of glasier smooth granite in Little Cottonwood Canyon, SLC. I can lead to mid 11s, so will be up for just about anything. Send me a PM with the details.

I was there till early afternoon and had the whole place to myself as far as I could see. Some kids were hiking around, but I didn't see anyone climbing.

I got out Friday and it was a great day. It seems I have Sunday available too and will be heading out to Broughton Bluff again. Anyone who wants to join me will be welcome.

I am heading out to Broughton Bluff tomorrow. I will climb by myself if I have to, but having a partner would be better. 8s-10s will probably by my limit for the day.

Well, I was planning on getting some cams, but now I think I will reconsider. In all my years of climbing I have owned only 1 cam and I hardly ever use it (it was a gift too). I think I will just stick to my good ol' stoppers. At least I know they will take some screamers.

I love the U-Scan. I rely on the fact that most people don't understand them and can't use them so lines are short or non-existant. I have never had any issues that could not be resolved quickly since there is a checker right there to solve problems.

I lived in that area for 25 years and climbed there for 15. There has only been 1, count them, 1 winter that I was able to get on the rock in February so don't hold your breath. If the sun is out at all, Little Cottonwood Canyon is the place to be for some fine slab climbing. Now ice is another story. The south side of the same canyon offers some fine ice climbing.

I just found this picture while looking through supertopo pictures and was wondering if anyone knows this crazy mofo? http://supertopo.com/rockclimbing/proslideshow.html?gid=11&n=13