cook

Gyselinck, please read this and thank me that you're still alive. Here

zoroastr, did you leave tea and scones on the summit?

We couldn't figure it out either, the best we could come up with was that someone had left a slab of rancid meat on top.

Its in the mail Lyger gets the sandwich because Camilo failed to describe the surrounding terrain.

The one on the left has three zeros, so you know its better.

Thanks for the TR and photos. We were up there sunday, did you notice the huge fly habitat on the summit?

Found on Sunday 8/16. The sandwich was found in the descent gully just after the last rappel. PM me for details, include a description and I will return it to you.

Yeah, those beers behind the energy drinks are what I use to stay awake while driving also.

I'm glad I'm not drinking absinthe right now. I drank absinthe once and threw up for 24 hours. Now I am also drinking warm water.

I will go on the same conditions of the Lyger, but you also need to feed me beer through a crazy straw while providing young virgins to belay and such. Really though, I have drank with the deadbeat before, he is legit.

Hopefully the menu will have consisted of deep fried mayonaise. I really want to see this one in action.

Dirtyleaf is right about synthetics losing loft. I had a zero degree synthetic bag from the REI garage sale that would lose loft everytime I'd put it in my pack for a trip. Anytime the temps would drop below 30 I'd be curled into the fetal position around a nalgene bottle of boiling water.

I agree with underworld, eat anything that you can tolerate. Sometimes when I feel like crap, I'll still be able to throw down something like skittles even if a energy bar or block of cheese makes me gag.

They're trying to build some of those near ellensburg (in the desert). Anyone know if this is still going to happen?

I use a +20 down bag from REI in the alpine that I really like, but as you said, it does suck when wet. I used my girlfriend's Marmot +15 primaloft bag in the winter once and it worked awesome. I would crawl into that bag soaking wet and it would dry me and some clothes out. My buddy kept getting pissed though because It would steam up the tent so much and get everything else wet instead.

I agree that Banks lake is a great place for this. Lots of rock and lots of deep water. Also has some great cliff jumping.

BD one opens beer

Gyselinck is becoming a homemaker. I think he'll be unemployed for a while.

We spent maybe 12-14 hours from camp to camp including some good rest breaks and a slow descent. Also, we were a group of four which in my experience tends to be slower than two. Bivying on route would be fun with good weather. There are many great bivy sites excavated on the route. Often there were two or three one man bivys in the same area.

Karma, I agree that the cascades are awesome and I thought this was a very fun climb. I am fairly positive that our 5.8ish pitch (which is probably actually easier becuase we were in wet hiking boots) is not the 5.4 that Beckey describes. When Gyselinck led up that pitch he said that this was not Becky's 5.4, but that he was going to go with what he knew would work, having climbed the pitch this winter.

Alpinfox, those cute girls only climb because there are flowers there. Lyger, I agree. A twenty five hour car trip with a dog would smell better than that trip, for example.

I figured it out

If anyone can resize these images or tell me how, please do

Here are some photos finally. Scrambling up the entrance gully Longpause Nearing the top of the gully Longpause At the notch on top of the gully More scrambling Longpause kickin it, with Ingalls lake in the background Traversing some goat/ human paths The lyger rests. Here she made a deal with gyselinck where he would carry a rock if she gave him a sandwich Gyselinck hanging out on the rad ice/loose rock ledge. Here we roped up for the last few pitches to the top Gyselinck leading the cruxish pitch just below the summit Lyger and Longpause descending in excellent weather Gyselinck taking advantage of a break in the fog to find the way down. Note the magic box around his neck Longpause and the Lyger soggy on the descent. Note the one mitten technique.

We didn't see any goats, but saw lots of droppings.