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Everything posted by Billygoat
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BillC I think that he is using the single jumar when aiding as I would use a daisy chain and a fifi. I believe he is using the double prussic as the arresting component when either aiding or freeing. I think that a standard prussic, not kleimheist (sp?) or french, will lock off quick and not burn as Dru suggests. Plus, having two provides a back-up. I think that I will go out and test this....with a sack of flour or two....
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God M-kay, another 'tard weighs in Way to go Hannah
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its a great tour
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Methinks Uly needs these
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Renato Cassarota (sp?) used this set up for all his climbs. He wasn't afraid of a little friction. these are from an email his wife sent me:
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When I discovered I had enuf $$ to get all the shiney gear
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I was stopped by a patroler at Sun Peaks resort in BC and told that skinning up is not allowed in Canada. Since the lifts had stopped, he let me continue and finish my run.
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pneumonultramicroscopicsilicavolcanoconiosis
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I'm fuckin' naked right now! How 'bout that shit
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Well, the sucks Did you get the name of that boarder? He should be making soms kind of restitution. if he was uphill from you, then he was boarding out of control. I'm sorry that happened to you. Hope the injury isn't too bad.
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So, How is Snugtop I take food, extra water and clothes. You can make a "pad" out if tree branches to insulate the victim. I think I will start taking a small stove and pot and some hot chocolate mix as it will give the victim something to do while I go for help or, if incapacitated, then the warm liquid would raise spirits
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Just order the DVD
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And most of the great hordes of unwashed and impoverished climbers/skibums/mountaineers that I've come across in my ten years in Colorado and ten out here come from middle to upper class backgrounds. So.....
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Yeah Dru We need to have a talk about some of these things you have planned...
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What do you tell your boss on a powder day?
Billygoat replied to EWolfe's topic in the *freshiezone*
Invoke the "Powder Clause" hidden in yur contract, dummy! -
Because humans get fat and depressed if life is not a scary struggle. So, once you have shelter and food taken care of, then you are free/driven to spend thousands of dollars on gear and go out and get gripped.....plus many whites seem to have some weird gene combos
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We had a great time, But we didn't go seracing. The powder conditions were too good so we went noodle farming instead. We drove up Glacier Creek Road 5 miles on packed powder (4WD + traction tires) and could have drove the whole way to the trailhead at 8 miles as the 'bilers packed the whole thing down good. There was a fairly decent skin track through the woods and we made it to tree line in 3 1/2 hours from the truck. We made a snow trench and camped out in our bivy sacks. Brrrrrr. It must have got down to the low teens. Next day it never seemed to get above lower 20's. great blower pow to play in We skied back to the truck from camp in 1 1/2 hours. Conditions on Sunday Dec 4 2005. There is plenty of blue ice showing
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A little surface slough I set off on a 40+ degree, North facing slope below Heliotrope Ridge Sunday Dec 4. We found the conditions there to be really stable and bonded to the old freeze/melt layer. The snowpack really thin in places and filled in with powder elsewhere. As the day wore on tho, it kept snowing and the wind (from the West) transported snow was becoming packed and crusty.
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Yeah Blake and I were going to go seracing but switched to noodle farming with conditions this good
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My Ibex pants and jacket worked great this w/e as you saw. Kept me warm even when wet and dried out as I wore them. Conditions were very cold and dry tho... I don't know how much the wool in the blend helps out on the warm when wet sitmo. Anyone find their purely synthetic softshells working well when wet, heat retention wise?
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Ice Climbing Accident / Guiness Gully / Field BC
Billygoat replied to jmckay's topic in Climber's Board
Glad you guys are ok and good work on the rescue -
You can rent touring skis pretty cheap from Glacier ski shop. User friendly and fast...
