Leejams and I were to meet another climber from Spokane at Alpental Saturday morning to find some ice to play on. He didn't show up, so we grabbed our gear and headed up to Guye Peak. Lee thought we might find some ice, but I didn't think so. This was confirmed when we got up there. I'm not sure how we decided to climb Guye but we did. Probably we weren't thinking straight. For one thing we were carrying too much gear, and for another we didn't have a route description with us.
We talked about the South Rib, but decided it was too slabby with all that snow on it, so we went for the Spur. I'm not sure we were on route or what, but we hit several class 5 sections on the first two pitches. These ate up a ton of time.
On the second pitch Lee was having trouble with the crux, so I yell up to him to put in an anchor. I came up and saw it was a hairy move around a wet corner, exposed and hard to protect. I suggested that he try it without his pack and we'd haul them instead. This worked, but after watching him, I didn't want to wear my pack either, so we hauled them both on the end of our climbing rope. They were heavy and stuck on everything, but we finally got the pack up to the belay tree.
After the first two pitches it is supposed to be easy climbing, but we found snow with a breakable crust that was really treacherous. You could never trust your footing. We couldn't get the nerve to simulclimb so we belayed every pitch, which obviously took a lot of time. We didn't mind being out late because the weather was so fine. Warm, with not a breath of wind.
We didn't summit until 6 pm. That's when we realized that Guye isn't trivial to get off of in the dark. You have to run the ridge north to the saddle. There are three or four high points you go over, but the last one is too steep. We rappelled down a gully. At the bottom of the rappel, you are supposed to climbing back up another gully to get on the ridge again, but we couldn't see it, or whatever. So we continued rappelling and were committed to that course. We ended up in a nasty slot gully. On the fourth rappel it put us close to the bottom, with no anchor. I downclimbed about 20 ft of 70 degree ice unroped then gave Lee a weak belay from below which would have at least stopped a slide over a cliff below.
One or two more rappels later we were on a slope we could plunge step down, sometimes up to our thighs in powder. We found a snowshoe trail on the west side of Commonwealth Creek and were home free. We made it back to the car at 1:15 am and for some reason decided to go home and not climb Chair Peak on Sunday.
Today I feel totally wasted. I must have had pine needles shoved under my fingernails, because that is what it feels like. Should have worn gloves the whole time for all those vegetable belays.
This was the first climb in which I've had to rappel in the dark. We could have bivied, of course, but I felt that if we just took our time and were careful, we could get down safely and stay warm in the process. Lee and I both learned a lot on this climb and now better understand the importance of good communication and also in efficiency of rope handling. A couple of radios would have been really nice on this climb. With radios, we could have decided on when to simulclimb.