catbirdseat

Mark, what do you think about Charlie Chan? Do you know who the FA party was? I know that most of you guys probably don't care too much because the route doesn't really go anywhere, but I think it's a good warmup route. Did anyone clean the "filth pitch" (P8?) of Total Soul since last year. I remember it as being really bad.

Chalk-a-holics need a surrogate distraction. I suggest a set of rosary beads on a rosary belt. So when you are trying to get up the nerve to make a tough move, instead of dipping, you just fiddle with the beads and say a silent prayer or something. "Lord above, deliver me safely through this heinous dyno I am about to commit to, amen".

He's in fine form.

Timing. The British informed him about the pending arrests before they went down and before anyone else in this country knew. He took advantage of priviledged information for political advantage. He wanted to be able to say, "hey, see, I told you so".

Well, Carl, it was necessary as Mid Term elections are coming up and things haven't been looking so good for the Republicans. Can't lose that majority in Congress.

I'll have you know that I climbed all evening at Exit 38 last night without using chalk even once. Do I get a gold star?

Hey, I read the newspaper and I see stuff that pisses me off. I need to vent somehow.

There is another route at Three O'clock Rock that needs upgrading. The route is called Charlie Chan's Number One Suspect, 5.9. It's entirely 1/4" buttonheads. Also, in my humble opinion, the anchor is not in a good place [the anchor is shared with a seldom climbed 5.10a, A2 route to the left]. There is no decent stance. Only ten feet to the right there is a much better place to stand to belay. This would also improve the route as all the moves up to that point are 5.7-5.8. The last move to the anchor is 5.9+ to 5.10a and not consistent with the rest of the route. This would be an excellent beginner's route if it weren't for this. We naturally found a bail biner on the last bolt. People get suckered in on this route all the time because it looks so moderate from the bottom. The route would get a new rating of 5.8, naturally. The Whitelaw guide does not identify the FA party, so I'd have no way to contact them to ask.

Exit 38 Mini Trip Report: Jens and, I believe, Allison pass us on the freeway just before Exit 34 on their way to Exit 32. They honk and wave with Jens grinning from ear to ear. Hit some object on I-90 in North Bend, which punctured left rear tire. Pulled off right after Ken's Truck Stop exit. Tried to get spare out, but hold down bolt was corroded from being in place for 18 year (apparently). Used the jack to crank on bolt but the wings just sheared off (no vice grips because my tool box had been stolen). Auto Club's trucks all are busy, minimum three hour wait. They tell me I can call an independent and they'll reimburse me. Removed tire and took it to Ken's Truck Stop where we bought a plug kit. Filled the tire with air, plugged the hole and headed back to the car. Martin says he hears a leak. I couldn't hear it because I have ringing in my ears all the time. He says he's quite sure. We arrive back at my car and he pulls the tire out and finds a second, smaller leak. We plugged that too, almost breaking off the reamer tool in the process. The tire still had enough air to use, so we put it back on the car and off to the Far Side, arriving at 6 pm. We climbed like mad and actually put up 8 routes between us and each climbed at least 5 route before it got dark. Beer and Supernachos at NBBG, per usual. Moral of the story: check your spare and make sure it can be removed, has air and that you have a good jack, wrench and all that s---.

He knew about the bomb plot when he gave a press conference in which he attacked the Democrats as being soft on terrorism in the wake of Leiberman's defeat in the primary election. The dirty, rotten, bastard! Baltimore Sun

Not simple. The US has too many ardent supporters of Israel for that ever to happen. We could pull out of Iraq. We could pull out of Afghanistan. But Israel would still be there and we'd still be sending billions of dollars to them.

Having a monosyllabic kind of day?

What sort of question is that? They don't call him the Tool Man for nothing!

Avast there, ye scurvy nave. The pirate's best friend be the double yellow headed Amazon Parrot. A friend in fair weather and foul. Squaaaaaaakkkkk!

Okay, that explains why the trucker did what he did. In real life, the bad guy got caught.

So the original was a motorcycle and they photoshopped in his little legs pumping up and down? That's a riot.

I was just given one. It's neon yellow and it has been sitting, unused in a garage since 1980. Never been used even once.

I think it's going to be chugalug at the boarding gate. Might be a problem if it is a long flight.

There is always Botox for hyperhidrosis of the hands.

I think Jens dropped one on the approach to Curtis Ridge, did he not? http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/s...true#Post592910

Prusik is a good place for booty. I got Slothrop's cordellette off it once. I offerred to return it but he said to keep it. I gave it to a friend who was learning to lead.

I'm not sure what you mean. Do you mean single pitch climbs? If so, then yes, it's all single pitch.

One vote for blowing the dam.

Funny. Haaretz.com doesn't have it.

Exit 32 has all of two or three easy trad routes. Exit 38 has 3 easy trad routes at The Bobs on Mt. Washington. The best of these is Ultramegacrack, 5.8, at Slumbersome Ridge. Bring a modest rack. There is another one that wants a larger cam.