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billcoe

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    Mtn Hardwear Ghost SL minus 40 sleeping bag - $300

    in The Yard Sale

    Posted

    email with questions sent.

     

     

    Posting this for a friend who is moving to Europe -- if you want a minus 40 degree bag, this is a great deal!

     

    Contact her at the phone/email below.

     

    Mountain Hardwear Ghost SL 800 fill down -40 deg sleeping bag

     

    Comes with storage sack and compression bag

    Excellent condition, fits up to 6ft and weighs 4lbs 12oz. Kept me toasty at 20,000ft on Acongagua!

    Storage sack and stuff sack included

    Retails for $880. Here's all the good stuff:

     

    AXF Super DWR finish repels water 5 times longer than standard DWRs

    Premium, 800-fill down provides outstanding, lightweight warmth

    Conduit SL shell is waterproof, breathable, windproof, durable and lightweight

    Patented welded baffle construction eliminates needle holes in shell fabric, yielding a waterproof construction and protecting the down from external moisture

    Laminated, double external zipper flaps keep water out

    5" baffle spacing keeps down carefully controlled for even, predictable loft

    Six-chamber hood design maintains even loft around head for consistent warmth

    Ergonomic draft collar blocks the escape of heated air from inside the bag. The two-piece collar drapes naturally over neck and shoulders creating a soft comfortable seal. Two draw cords can snug down as needed to secure the collar.

    Down-filled face gasket comfortably blocks drafts at the hood opening. Only a slight tightening of the draw cord is required to seal in warmth.

    Two small pockets above collar provide storage for small items

    Double draft tubes along zipper prevent cold spots

    Comfort Footbox follows natural foot position for maximum warmth and comfort

     

     

     

     

    beal vs mammut

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    i probably should just call up Beal for the other q's, but i worry when talking to reps that all i will get in answer is "our product is the 2nd coming"

     

     

    Is this cause you live in SLC and talk to the Black Diamond folks? LOL :lmao:

    beal vs mammut

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    Hola Mike: My thoughts/experience incomplete info to add to the knowledge base for what it's worth.

     

    I have a Beal 9.1 Joker (that's the size we are discussing?) that looks like it will last longer than I want to lead on it. Appears to have next to zero wear after 4 years or so (bought it Jan 20th 2007). I've never had a skinny Mammut but have had good wear on their other sized ropes over many years so I can't compare Mammutt to Beal directly. HOWEVER, the caveat is that I don't record pitches on ropes and have a lot of other ropes that I rotate. Also, I don't dog routes with the Joker. It's seen a few falls for sure but don't know how many as I don't keep track of small falls like when you're clipping bolts.

     

    Of all my ropes, the 9.1 is my favorite and the most used as it's the lightest fullsized #1 rope (single rope) I own and so I tend to drag it on long adventures. It gets pressed into high mileage free climbing kind of trips, Red Rocks and Yosemite. Did 25 pitches 2nd day we were in Yos with it last May. That kind of thing, I take this rope. So it's gotten a shit load of pitches in. Unfortunately, it's time to retire it from lead climbing soon based on age alone, and the price has gone up. I bought a Petzl skinny on sale for a crazy $83 at REI but before I opened it I climbed on my buddies and the handling sucks (in comparison to the Joker IMO). As does Petzl and their ropes. (google failures on red Petzl Zephyr ropes for instance) I love Beal. Good products, good people.

    Unfortunately, I bought the sale rope for like $109 (back when it was new and hot and rarely went on sale), and they (online sale store) got to pick the color. Black. ...Ever see a middle mark on a black rope? Me either. I know I could do the dental floss whip stitch but am too lazy:-)

     

    so, that's didn't actually answer the first part of your question.....

     

    Maybe you can direct this thread and the 2nd part of your question to Beal to get a clearer answer on the cut/abrasion resistance. Most likely none of us will know that. I had some solid info exchanged back when with them on discussing middle marks. We'd all get the info then, I'd like to know the answer and suspect most of us would.

     

    :wave:

    Product To Clean Tree Sap?

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    Dave, you don't have to worry about snafflehounds if you get turned around by the ranger for no permit on your way to Snafflehound Ledge. Sleeping on the trail probably doesn't help either, you outlaws.
    How about you rub some rock salt in there while your at it. :poke::battlecage:

    Hooo man, you call that shit a trip report? I was looking to see that you guys had sent and not gotten sent!

     

     

     

    ps, I just leave the tree sap on the rope. It seems to wear off on it's own fast enough.

    The process of becoming a douchebag shithead.

    in Spray

    Posted · Edited by billcoe

    Part of the process is weeding out folks who burn you. Eventually, what's left are the jewels who climb hard, have fun, give stoke and are always there for you....

     

    PS, great pictures on your web site!

     

    This looks crazy.......like maybe soon to be crazy painful if you don't stick the landing:-)

    picture very very nice, but really really too big for my little screen:-) , click the link, overhanging ice, no pro picture.

    Woot!

     

    great shot!

    to all my climbing friends

    in Spray

    Posted

    and all my friends who are climbers, goodbye. i can no longer call myself a climber. I really haven't climbed since 2007. now it is time to kiss the rock goodbye along with my gear. it is with a river of tears and a heavy heart that i do this. I wish you all well and great climbing. Thank you so much all of you for all of the good times, great climbs and random meetings at the Sun Spot, spring things and love fests. we have had some good times. I give my gear away on the 17th of August to a new climber. Today I tried to climb with my old climbing partner for the last time. eventually i should prolly get rid of my cc.com account.

     

     

    I think it's ok to quit and not have to endure the pain if that's the options. Find something you love to do and reveling it. Lifes too short already. Wish you the best! Warm regards and thank YOU for the memories too.

    Driving home after climbing

    in Fitness and Nutrition Forum

    Posted

    ...If my wife is with me, she does this thing where she scratches my right arm very lightly like a rotisserie massage or something.

     

    Hey year, mine massages my neck and rubs and scratches my back. I gotta say I love that. Helps me stay awake too. Seen too many fine folks die over the years in the car on the way back from climbing. Usually it's on the way back, going to in Bruce Binders case. I figure nothing is so important that I can't catch a quick nap. I don't set my alarm, it just seems like I wake up in 10-20 min feeling refreshed and alert. Can't speak for anyone else, that's what works for me. In Off's case of crashing with his buddies in the car coming back form skiing, I'll do a survey and see if anyone is feeling awake or if they're cool with me taking a nap. They drive and I catch some sleep. Nobody has crashed my car yet:-)

    Oregon ICE???

    in Ice Climbing Forum

    Posted

    Tim has @ 20 pages of Gorge ice listed in the new book....when it forms. LOL. This site is a great find for a local ice climber. The area has some great ice climbers who are always talking current conditions, and it also offers some opportunities to crank on it even when the local ice is missing (most of the time:-) John Frieh and Marcus put on a dry tool fest annually at the Portland Rock Gym (aka PRG -can't say it's on this year cause I don't know), and people do some dry tooling locally on the East side of the cliffs at Rocky Butte (bad form to tool on the existing rock climbs! Look left of Silver Bullet bluff and you'll see tool marks) for exercise.

     

    This ice climbing forum would probably be a great place to find a partner to go do some laps on the lower Elliot glacier icefall next weekend. Lots of people just top rope the ice there.

     

    Sometimes you'll see people on this site just jump up and run to wherever the ice is forming, check the trip reports and you'll see this thing happening. Pretty incredible what guys are getting done in a weekend these days.

     

    Have fun!

    Oregon ICE???

    in Ice Climbing Forum

    Posted · Edited by billcoe

    I am new to this forum. But I have been rock climbing for about 25 years. Now I am thinking of doing some Ice Climbing. Does anyone do any Ice climbing in Oregon? Is there anywhere in Oregon to Ice Climb? Any input would be Great thanks.

     

    Welcome!~!! Nice first post. I came through the gorge Saturday. It was 102 degrees Fahrenheit. I did not see any ice there at all, even cocktail ice in my soda, although Tim Olsen's new book erroneously shows that there is ice climbing there. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1077849/Re_New_Oregon_Guidebook#Post1077849

     

    That's all I know.

     

    Edit: actually, you can head up to the Elliot glacier on Hood right now and get some nice ice in on the glacier crevasse walls. Sweet stuff for glacier ice when it's 100 degrees down here. Good all summer. It's not too bad of a hike above Cloud Cap Chalet on the NE side of Mt Hood. Real pretty. Highly recommended and crazy to be on ice when it's 100 degrees everywhere.

    what brand of gear and why?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I've never used anything other than jumars aiding. I remember hearing bad things about the BD ascenders. has anyone actually used those? are they as bad as some people have made them out to be?

    Yes. Maybe worse. I have a pair for sale which are like new that has only jugged a couple pitches if anyone is interested. THEY TOTALLY SUCK!!! To own this sucakage will be $100. It's not just me, some real well known valley rats have had the same issue, which is you are cruising along and zippppp, they don't grab for an inch or 2. It is caused by not having the jug oriented to the rope properly results in the jug slipping right down in a heart stopping pants filling free fall for you. Followed by an expletive "@@#X!!!@". And it slows me down and wind up getting hesitant. Fortunately, it's short then they grab. I suspect that as it doesn't happen with Petzls...or any other jumar, that old dogs who are use to sliding the jug up the rope in a casual and fast manner are more prone to having it occur. Not everyone has this happen to them, basically, you need to train yourself to slide the thing straight up the rope. Which sounds like an easy thing put that way, but when you're in the groove and cruzin high off the deck...whoosh. @@#X!!!@

     

    Good ones:

    ascenders%20small.jpg

     

     

     

    As for the Totem recall. Non-issue. First, lots of companies are still selling cams that have anodised lobes. Ever see BD even give a shit about that? NO? Me either. BD,DMM, Wild Country still selling anodized cam lobes. Next, Totem did the recall when Totem realized that they could get a marginally better stick on marginal (polished limestone) rock. Realize that their cams already stick as good or better than most anyone elses, even anodized. As they said in the notice, anodizing "...may affect their holding power in certain areas of polished limestone and when the cams still retain their layer of anodizing on the area in contact with the rock." That's only when new, one trip to red rocks and they are all scuffed up.

     

    Look at Black Diamond Camalots, Wild Country or DMM's new stuff. Are you suggesting that they are selling gear that should be recalled right now but are ignoring it?

     

    DSC_0038.JPG

     

    See? Totem recognized they could get an incrementally better bite for their already superior cam, so they allowed their existing customers to trade up to what Totem perceived to be a slightly better grip on polished limestone. If they wanted. Or they could take a bit of sandpaper and rub for 3 min. That's amazing customer service IMO, and the Totem folks should be lauded and rewarded for it.

    Driving home after climbing

    in Fitness and Nutrition Forum

    Posted

    I'd love to crash at your friends house's Gene, but find that the zonking occurs too quick. I'm usually happy to make it as far as the next pull over spot where I won't get hit by the next tired driver. When I was younger, gutsing it out was fine, and could drive the 22-24 hours to Joshua Tree via will power. Now, getting the 24 miles home from the farside at days end can entail a pull over in Vancouver, a scant 5 miles from home. But I feel much better:-) The before and after difference for me is huge.

     

    regards:

     

    Bill

    what brand of gear and why?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    My Favorites/rock:

     

    Carabiners- Wild Country Heliums, runner up nanos

    There are lighter and there is stronger, but the size, clipping, hooded nose, wire gate and high strength to low weight combo make me like Heliums the most. Nanos are close to too small, but so lightweight that they are nice to carry. I like the way they clip better than the little Metolius.

     

    Nuts: DMM Wallnuts large, HB/DMM offsets small.

    Wallnuts have a great strength to weight ration and are tapered to fit well. The offsets seem to have a great niche, but for me, in the larger sizes, even though I carry them, the weight is a turn off.

     

    Cams: Totems, Totem Basics (Aliens), Metolius

    These cams seem to grip in all conditions in more places than other cams.

     

    Harness's: Misty Mountain Sonic and Cadillac. Runner up for hanging all day, Metolius Waldo. These are the most comfortable harness's: FOR ME.

     

    Helmets: Petzl Meteor 3

    So light you'll think there might be a small insect on your head, but nope: just a helmet.

     

    Belay devices: GriGri2, Black Diamond Guide ATC

    Great gripping, ropes run well when you need them too. The range of ropes for both is good as well.

     

    Jumars: Petzl

    Strength to weight ration, grip well.

     

    Aiders: Yates and Misty Mt.

    Yates are burly and stay open, great grab bar. The Mistys are light and pack small but have nice features.

     

    Over the shoulder slings: Yates, Jrat, Black Diamond adjustable. Personal opinion.

     

    No recent mt or ice I'm so out of date I'd be worthless.

     

     

     

     

    Romney -- brought to you by coal & oil

    in Spray

    Posted

    Well, trying to say something positive here, if Obama isn't reelected at least we can expect to see the banks continue to rip off all the US taxpayers, and our wasteful global military presence that ratchets up anger at the US to continue like the Obama and Bush policies.

     

    Same same, no difference.

     

    http://www.mybudget360.com/wealth-in-america-corporations-control-grow-income-inequality-top-25-percent-control-87-percent-finanical-wealth/

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