billcoe
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Posts posted by billcoe
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Is someone a legal citizen of Indonesia? Hmmmm? Not a citizen of the world, but just a dual citizen?
Why is that illegal, Bill?
Huh? I'm confused, I thought we were playing the "guess the Donald's big story he's going to break Wednesday" game. That's my guess.
Maybe he's going to announce that he's filing for bankruptcy for the 5th time and blaming rogue Kenyans?
Is that Illegal? But that's not my guess.
Maybe he's going to start going with an Obamafro instead of the common red-tailed Squirrel look for hairstyle. Maybe he's going to out an actual squirrel that's been sleeping on top of his head for 12 years! Not sure that would qualify as a big story though. But that's not my guess either.
What was your guess Jon?
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Is someone a legal citizen of Indonesia? Hmmmm? Not a citizen of the world, but just a dual citizen?
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Lots on interesting things being found these days. Guy I works with son in law to be recently discovered some planet. For myself, I thought that the Mars project is fishing out some astounding things as well....dry river beds, warmer than expected temps, mystery spheres...Woot!
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Sunrise is when the sun comes up buttercup. Rainer.
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I think what they are saying is to just slip a rat-tail file in yer chalkbag next to yer toothbrush fer brushing chalk and when you come across this hanging there:
Clip the upper biner and hit the lower one with yer rat-tail file till it's smooth.
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solid enough rock, and kudos to the poor soul who set themself to clean it - the rock might be small, but the bolts are big like bog
LOL. You're welcome. BTW, I'd been told that the pinnacle was over 100' tall which served to suck me in quite readily. My first words as we came around the corner up from Jones creek were: "Where's the rest of it". LOL
I did go back once. Had part of a day and drug Gent Mendes (awesome guy to hang out with) back up there and we did this west side route.
Note that the bouldering over towards where your photo was taken is reportedly quite good. Tymon blogs about it all the time. I've never shot or climbed over there, but both are evidently quite popular.
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Thanks for your support, "billcoe".
You finally tipped the delicate balance toward my non-participation in this dubious web-forum. I'll take my crusade to the legislature and idealistic, eco-minded youth. You might be a nice guy in real life, but I'll never know. And for the rest of you...I'll join the many that have abandoned cc.com due to its vulgarity and irrelevancy. If you guys represent climbing in 2012, I ain't a part of it. And just to preempt you: what was that I just felt??? Oh, it must be the door hitting me in the *ss as I walked away! Oh my! "Boo-hoo, Raindawg/Dwayner!" yada, yada, yada....enjoy your own sideshow but don't forget to look into the mirror once in a while, it ain't pretty.Sincere aloha to the nice ones. Adios!
You're welcome for the support.
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I didn't make it this year, is Ivan going to post a trip report so us armchair slackers can see what the real climbers are up too? Hope all had a good time!
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There is one question I'd have, has anyone here beside Raindawg have a PhD and written a book on Archeology and the Bible?
Oh? You have? Crap. Well, lets rephrase. Anyone besides Dawg written a good book on Archeology as it relates to the Bible (maybe the reverse) and acts like a used douchnozzel? Didn't think so. ha ha!
Which is odd that he doesn't help this religious discourse along but displays his persecution complex instead. He's one of the few people who seems capable of starting out butt-hurt and working backwards off of that to a level of self-righteous butt-hurt sanctimoniousness and anger not seen this side of a pulpit often. (/gratuitous slap at religion to keep the thread on topic)
ps, Don, your book was rather well done, researched and engaging. It's definitely a side no one here sees of you on this site. Thanks!
Off White, all that was needed to complete that picture is that the kid had on a "KARMA IS A BITCH" T-shirt. LOL
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Good advise up thread.
I was on a rescue years back. Rode up with the sheriff and we woke up my buddy Mike at o dark thirty cause he was the only other known climber on the Mt. Mike had done a solo lap up Steele cliffs (Mount Hood) same day as dude but he knew the storm was a coming so he was boogying and got back in time. Mike had seen dude coming up as he was going down and described what he knew of location and equipment to us.
When we got there the weather was so bad that us rescuers could barely stand up. In the parking lot. I was wondering if we might lose a rescuer or 2 it was that bad. Kept tied in together to keep from blowing away. We hung out for 5 days looking for the guy. It was butt-assed cold too, I think it was February. They called it off as the weather started clearing figuring he was a gonner buried under 3 feet of fresh snow and all the rescuers and sheriffs went home. Cept for me an another guy. I use to like it up there and took to hanging out in my free time at odd places on the Mt. So I figured I'd just stay and eventually find a ride home.
I'm scratching my ass waking up slow and figuring I'll grab my axe and do a late start lap in the good weather but keep my eyes open for the body when right then the dude, alive, pops into the hut. Dude was a rich Californian skiier who didn't know shit about the mountains. He was smart enough to have a shovel and had dug a snow cave and he survived the horrible conditions somewhat protected, inside of it. He had top shelf expensive gear and in fact, a pair of plastic boots. When I saw him I just figured that he was gonna get some toes chopped. I've seen that happen before, frostbite comes easy in those conditions. The medics peeled off his new plastic boots and his feet looked like blanched white wrinkled prunes... NO frostbite. I asked him what he did for his feet (I was thinking along the lines of "Oh I put on the down booties I have stuffed in the bottom of my pack:-)" Nope, dude said he'd been wearing the plastic boots all week, didn't take them off once.
I had him repeat that part LOL.I became a plastic boot believer for big mountains. So what that means to you is that you'll probably have to do what everyone else is doing, just buy multiple shoes/boots for different types of climbing.
As noted above, fit is everything no matter what you get.
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I don't know where kids learn this stuff today.
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Sad to say, I hear Nicholas A. Dodge passed away last month from a battle with cancer. His pioneering guidebooks set Oregon on the map for the climbing community starting in 1968 and updating it in '75. I worshiped that book as a lad. It had a big impact on my life. Still does, Thanks Nick.
Ditto on what Wayne said. The picture on the book was classic. I remember thinking, "I HAVE to do that route, and being surprised to learn it was only 5.7...but a damned serious one at that if such can be said of a 5.7. Sorry to hear it was cancer. Soon, all too soon, we too must all follow Nick into the void..... at least he cut enough of a swath while he was with us here to be remembered. (pretty much what Ivan said there) RIP Nick.
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Whoa, I did a lap Friday and saw a Preying Mantis walking right up the rock while I was belaying my buddy up the 4th pitch of Young Warriors. Had not seen a Mantis for years.
Didn't know they could type.
As far as the article goes,
There has been a deep drought in the US this year. Yet I've seen Costco smoked salmon prices go from $9.99 to 16.99 in the same period (same brand, same size), and there doesn't seem to be any drought in the ocean. Food and gas have gone up in price across the board with few exceptions. Fortunately, inflation as the gov't measures it is nowhere to be seen.[/satirical final comment]The Guardian reports that the cost of bacon has doubled since 2006, and record droughts are to blame. -
Anyone looking for a little outside conditioning? Trail building and trail work opportunities in WA. - PDXers, note first Cape Horn date is full already:-) Slots available for later.
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[font:Georgia]WTF is this![/font]
You afraid to post the list? http://thinkprogress.org/politics/2012/10/04/958801/at-last-nights-debate-romney-told-27-myths-in-38-minutes/?mobile=nc
At Last Night’s Debate: Romney Told 27 Myths In 38 Minutes1) “[G]et us energy independent, North American energy independent. That creates about 4 million jobs”. Romney’s plan for “energy independence” actually relies heavily on a study that assumes the U.S. continues with fuel efficiency standards set by the Obama administration. For instance, he uses Citigroup research based off the assumption that “‘the United States will continue with strict fuel economy standards that will lower its oil demand.” Since he promises to undo the Obama administration’s new fuel efficiency standards, he would cut oil consumption savings of 2 million barrels per day by 2025.
2) “I don’t have a $5 trillion tax cut. I don’t have a tax cut of a scale that you’re talking about.” A Tax Policy Center analysis of Romney’s proposal for a 20 percent across-the-board tax cut in all federal income tax rates, eliminating the Alternative Minimum Tax, eliminating the estate tax and other tax reductions, would reduce federal revenue $480 billion in 2015. This amounts to $5 trillion over the decade.
3) “My view is that we ought to provide tax relief to people in the middle class. But I’m not going to reduce the share of taxes paid by high-income people.” If Romney hopes to provide tax relief to the middle class, then his $5 trillion tax cut would add to the deficit. There are not enough deductions in the tax code that primarily benefit rich people to make his math work.
4) “My — my number-one principal is, there will be no tax cut that adds to the deficit. I want to underline that: no tax cut that adds to the deficit.” As the Tax Policy Center concluded, Romney’s plan can’t both exempt middle class families from tax cuts and remain revenue neutral. “He’s promised all these things and he can’t do them all. In order for him to cover the cost of his tax cut without adding to the deficit, he’d have to find a way to raise taxes on middle income people or people making less than $200,000 a year,” the Center found.
5) “I will not under any circumstances raise taxes on middle-income families. I will lower taxes on middle-income families. Now, you cite a study. There are six other studies that looked at the study you describe and say it’s completely wrong.” The studies Romney cites actually further prove that Romney would, in fact, have to raise taxes on the middle class if he were to keep his promise not to lose revenue with his tax rate reduction.
6) “I saw a study that came out today that said you’re going to raise taxes by $3,000 to $4,000 on middle-income families.” Romney is pointing to this study from the American Enterprise Institute. It actually found that rather than raise taxes to pay down the debt, the Obama administration’s policies — those contained directly in his budget — would reduce the share of taxes that go toward servicing the debt by $1,289.89 per taxpayer in the $100,000 to $200,000 range.
7) “And the reason is because small business pays that individual rate; 54 percent of America’s workers work in businesses that are taxed not at the corporate tax rate, but at the individual tax rate….97 percent of the businesses are not — not taxed at the 35 percent tax rate, they’re taxed at a lower rate. But those businesses that are in the last 3 percent of businesses happen to employ half — half of all the people who work in small business.” Far less than half of the people affected by the expiration of the upper income tax cuts get any of their income at all from a small businesses. And those people could very well be receiving speaking fees or book royalties, which qualify as “small business income” but don’t have a direct impact on job creation. It’s actually hard to find a small business who think that they will be hurt if the marginal tax rate on income earned above $250,000 per year is increased.
8) “Mr. President, all of the increase in natural gas and oil has happened on private land, not on government land. On government land, your administration has cut the number of permits and licenses in half.” Oil production from federal lands is higher, not lower: Production from federal lands is up slightly in 2011 when compared to 2007. And the oil and gas industry is sitting on 7,000 approved permits to drill, that it hasn’t begun exploring or developing.
9) “The president’s put it in place as much public debt — almost as much debt held by the public as all prior presidents combined.” This is not even close to being true. When Obama took office, the national debt stood at $10.626 trillion. Now the national debt is over $16 trillion. That $5.374 trillion increase is nowhere near as much debt as all the other presidents combined.
10) “That’s why the National Federation of Independent Businesses said your plan will kill 700,000 jobs. I don’t want to kill jobs in this environment.” That study, produced by a right-wing advocacy organization, doesn’t analyze what Obama has actually proposed.
11) “What we do have right now is a setting where I’d like to bring money from overseas back to this country.” Romney’s plan to shift the country to a territorial tax system would allow corporations to do business and make profits overseas without ever being taxed on it in the United States. This encourages American companies to invest abroad and could cost the country up to 800,000 jobs.
12) “I would like to take the Medicaid dollars that go to states and say to a state, you’re going to get what you got last year, plus inflation, plus 1 percent, and then you’re going to manage your care for your poor in the way you think best.” Sending federal Medicaid funding to the states in the form of a block grant woud significantly reduce federal spending for Medicaid because the grant would not keep up with projected health care costs. A CBO estimate of a very similar proposal from Paul Ryan found that federal spending would be “35 percent lower in 2022 and 49 percent lower in 2030 than current projected federal spending” and as a result “states would face significant challenges in achieving sufficient cost savings through efficiencies to mitigate the loss of federal funding.” “To maintain current service levels in the Medicaid program, states would probably need to consider additional changes, such as reducing their spending on other programs or raising additional revenues,” the CBO found.
13) “I want to take that $716 billion you’ve cut and put it back into Medicare…. But the idea of cutting $716 billion from Medicare to be able to balance the additional cost of Obamacare is, in my opinion, a mistake. There’s that number again. Romney is claiming that Obamacare siphons off $716 billion from Medicare, to the detriment of beneficiaries. In actuality, that money is saved primarily through reducing over-payments to insurance companies under Medicare Advantage, not payments to beneficiaries. Paul Ryan’s budget plan keeps those same cuts, but directs them toward tax cuts for the rich and deficit reduction.
14) “What I support is no change for current retirees and near-retirees to Medicare.” Here is how Romney’s Medicare plan will affect current seniors: 1) by repealing Obamacare, the 16 million seniors receiving preventive benefits without deductibles or co-pays and are saving $3.9 billion on prescription drugs will see a cost increase, 2) “premium support” will increase premiums for existing beneficiaries as private insurers lure healthier seniors out of the traditional Medicare program, 3) Romney/Ryan would also lower Medicaid spending significantly beginning next year, shifting federal spending to states and beneficiaries, and increasing costs for the 9 million Medicare recipients who are dependent on Medicaid.
15) “Number two is for people coming along that are young, what I do to make sure that we can keep Medicare in place for them is to allow them either to choose the current Medicare program or a private plan. Their choice. They get to choose — and they’ll have at least two plans that will be entirely at no cost to them.” The Medicare program changes for everyone, even people who choose to remain in the traditional fee-for-service. Rather than relying on a guaranteed benefit, all beneficiaries will receive a premium support credit of $7,500 on average in 2023 to purchase coverage in traditional Medicare or private insurance. But that amount will only grow at a rate of GDP plus 1.5 percentage points and will not keep up with health care costs. So while the federal government will spend less on the program, seniors will pay more in premiums.
16) “And, by the way the idea came not even from Paul Ryan or — or Senator Wyden, who’s the co-author of the bill with — with Paul Ryan in the Senate, but also it came from Bill — Bill Clinton’s chief of staff.” Romney has rejected the Ryan/Wyden approach — which does not cap the growth of the “premium support” subsidy. Bill Clinton and his commission also voted down these changes to the Medicare program.
17) “Well, I would repeal and replace it. We’re not going to get rid of all regulation. You have to have regulation. And there are some parts of Dodd-Frank that make all the sense in the world.” Romney has previously called for full repeal of Dodd-Frank, a law whose specific purpose is to regulate banks. MF Global’s use of customer funds to pay for its own trading losses is just one bit of proof that the financial industry isn’t responsible enough to protect consumers without regulation.
18) “But I wouldn’t designate five banks as too big to fail and give them a blank check. That’s one of the unintended consequences of Dodd-Frank… We need to get rid of that provision because it’s killing regional and small banks. They’re getting hurt.” The law merely says that the biggest, systemically risky banks need to abide by more stringent regulations. If those banks fail, they will be unwound by a new process in the Dodd-Frank law that protects taxpayers from having to pony up for a bailout.
19) “And, unfortunately, when — when — when you look at Obamacare, the Congressional Budget Office has said it will cost $2,500 a year more than traditional insurance. So it’s adding to cost.” Obamacare will actually provide millions of families with tax credits to make health care more affordable.
20) “t puts in place an unelected board that’s going to tell people ultimately what kind of treatments they can have. I don’t like that idea.” The Board, or IPAB is tasked with making binding recommendations to Congress for lowering health care spending, should Medicare costs exceed a target growth rate. Congress can accept the savings proposal or implement its own ideas through a super majority. The panel’s plan will modify payments to providers but it cannot “include any recommendation to ration health care, raise revenues or Medicare beneficiary premiums…increase Medicare beneficiary cost-sharing (including deductibles, coinsurance, and co- payments), or otherwise restrict benefits or modify eligibility criteria” (Section 3403 of the ACA). Relying on health care experts rather than politicians to control health care costs has previously attracted bipartisan support and even Ryan himself proposed two IPAB-like structures in a 2009 health plan.
21) “Right now, the CBO says up to 20 million people will lose their insurance as Obamacare goes into effect next year. And likewise, a study by McKinsey and Company of American businesses said 30 percent of them are anticipating dropping people from coverage.” The Affordable Care Act would actually expand health care coverage to 30 million Americans, despite Romney fear mongering. According to CBO director Douglas Elmendorf, 3 million or less people would leave employer-sponsored health insurance coverage as a result of the law.
22) “I like the way we did it [health care] in Massachusetts…What were some differences? We didn’t raise taxes.” Romney raised fees, but he can claim that he didn’t increase taxes because the federal government funded almost half of his reforms.
23) “It’s why Republicans said, do not do this, and the Republicans had — had the plan. They put a plan out. They put out a plan, a bipartisan plan. It was swept aside.” The Affordable Care Act incorporates many Republican ideas including the individual mandate, state-based health care exchanges, high-risk insurance pools, and modified provisions that allow insurers to sell policies in multiple states. Republicans never offered a united bipartisan alternative.
24) “Preexisting conditions are covered under my plan.” Only people who are continuously insured would not be discriminated against because they suffer from pre-existing conditions. This protection would not be extended to people who are currently uninsured.
25) “In one year, you provided $90 billion in breaks to the green energy world. Now, I like green energy as well, but that’s about 50 years’ worth of what oil and gas receives.” The $90 billion was given out over several years and included loans, loan guarantees and grants through the American Recovery Act. $23 billion of the $90 billion “went toward “clean coal,” energy-efficiency upgrades, updating the electricity grid and environmental clean-up, largely for old nuclear weapons sites.”
26) “I think about half of [the green firms Obama invested in], of the ones have been invested in have gone out of business. A number of them happened to be owned by people who were contributors to your campaigns.” As of late last year, only “three out of the 26 recipients of 1705 loan guarantees have filed for bankruptcy, with losses estimated at just over $600 million.”
27) “If the president’s reelected you’ll see dramatic cuts to our military.” Romney is referring to the sequester, which his running mate Paul Ryan supported. Obama opposes the military cuts and has asked Congress to formulate a balanced approach that would avoid the trigger.
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Jeff and I just got off the Crusin, Corner, Young Warriors link up. mmmmm good stuff. The fall nip was in the air and it was perfect in the sun. Felt like a high gravity day but still hella fun, maybe the wind gusts to 25-30 mph going sideways which made hanging onto the crux's of YW a tad difficult can be blamed this time instead the the usual: Age, sick, tired, shoulders killing me.
Shoulders have been iced and ibuprofened.
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I enjoyed watching it, thought both men reprezented well (despite what the press keeps saying about a clear Romney win). Glad I tuned in.
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Cilogear, local, made in PDX, work class kit. You can walk right in there and talk to Graham. Once you get over the price tag and own a Cilogear, you'll forget the cost and enjoy it every time you take it out. Seriously. Damned thing will last a long time, if you amortise the enjoyment you get from having a topnotch piece of gear over the life span, it's a real sweet ratio.
When I was younger I'd by cheaper stuff. Unfortunately, it later becomes and impediment to buying good stuff. (ie, well, I don't really like that item, but already own one so I don't need 2 now).
Ciologear soloing the Old Witch on the FA. (got the rope stuffed inside of it, the top pops on and off)
Same gear last weekend hiking with Sadie-May the Trailer Park Flosie at Angels Rest in the Gorge.
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Don't know whos winning the debate, but looks like an awesome route - thanks for sharing the link Bob.
It looks like a 3rd party is doing the write up, and they simply might have meant to say "Ground up", instead of "onsight".
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As the follower, I can attest that there was an X marked on I-Rock itself, which was loose, in its entirety. So the X was helpful.
Big X I'd bet. Cover the whole rock? LOL.
Like, how would you get the X big enough to cover everything in this shot?
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Summation: Short rope, long route, no knot.
http://davemacleod.blogspot.ca/2012/10/end-of-line-for-short-while.html
Reminiscent of Lynn Hills accident, as in world class climber reminding us all once again..... like we need to hear it....
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Blackwater
in Spray
https://www.nationalreview.com/nrd/articles/328692/losing-iraq?pg=1
Been a pretty good discussion upthread 5 years back or so of the mistakes and bungling the Bush crew made. It really saddens me to see that:
A) We went in there to begin with.
B) Went in totally half assed.
C) Our exit, under our "glorious leader" Obama, was as bad of a misstep as anything which went before.
We took our eyes off the prize and it cost us. If you look up "Epic Fail" in the urban dictionary it should list this debacle as the example.
Lastly, and this is related, congrats to President Obama for bumping the CAFE standards (2nd time, I gave kudos the first time as well which was right after he was elected). It shows a marked and radical difference in the lack of intelligence and thought Romney would bring to this issue of energy independence as he's opposed to the standards. Barring a full-on energy policy review by experts in that field (which has needed to occur for the last several Presidencies), what Obama did is good for the country, what Romney would do could, and most likely would be, ruinous.
I'm done with both parties. I've voting Gary Johnson. We need to get the US budget under control #1 issue. Neither one of the 2 current candidates, Romney nor Obama, have given it more than a passing mention. The deficit has gone from 4 trillion under the cut taxes and spend Bush to over 16 trillion dollars under the cut taxes and spend President Obama. They both have a "Don't ask don't tell" or give any kind of a shit attitude on what is the most pressing issue of our time. That we just pissed 1 trillion bucks or more down the sink in Iraq to become less safe militarily is small consolation that it was a "bi-partisan" effort which we can thank most of the congressmen and senators, along with Bush and Obama. BTW, each of you, if you are paying taxes, owes and average of $140,000 in back taxes. You haven't seen the bill come in the mail yet, but that's what is is. Still growing daily as well. The longer we wait, the worse it will be, and it could be real bad right now, as no one seems to have any control over the debt. Furthermore, no one has to divulge how much money the Fed, a group of private banks, are making to finance this debt. Right now, they are doing the job. Their charter with the US government allows them a 5% profit. Did we really just have to pay them $10,800,000,000,000 to play charades with our money and enable the further indebtedness of the country?
Snipits of link:
President Obama announced the “end of America’s war in Iraq” on December 14, 2011, with the words, “We’re leaving behind a sovereign, stable, and self-reliant Iraq, with a representative government that was elected by its people. We’re building a new partnership between our nations.” These were the conditions that he felt allowed him to describe the completion of America’s military withdrawal as a “moment of success.” Nine months later, Iraq does not seem like a success, even in these extremely limited terms. It is neither sovereign nor stable nor self-reliant. Its government does not reflect the will of its people; Sunni officials have been marginalized and, in some cases, driven out of office. And it is not a partner of the United States on any of the key issues in the region: From its evasion of economic sanctions on Iran to its support for the Syrian regime of Bashar Assad, Iraq stands in Tehran’s camp, not Washington’s. The reality is that the United States has not achieved its national-security objectives in Iraq and is not likely to do so.............Michael Gordon paints a different picture in a recent New York Times article excerpted from The Endgame. As he explains it, the Obama administration did not begin negotiations for the extension of a military presence until June 2011, despite the well-known challenges of securing rapid deals in Iraq. The administration claims that it could not start negotiations before then because the Iraqi government had not yet been formed. But Gordon demonstrates how much the delay in the formation of that government resulted from the total failure of the Obama administration’s efforts to broker a political deal in Baghdad.
When the negotiations did start, they were premised on an unrealistic demand communicated by President Obama to Prime Minister Maliki. Obama wanted the Iraqi parliament to ratify whatever agreement was reached, despite the fact that Maliki had requested an executive agreement that would not be subject to legislative approval, and the lead U.S. negotiator, Brett McGurk, had recommended taking this approach. Maliki offered an executive agreement several times, Gordon notes, but the Obama administration stuck to its original demand. President Obama did not exert himself to smooth the negotiations, confining his communications with Maliki to the initial conversation in June and a discussion in October during which the U.S. president told his Iraqi counterpart that the negotiations were over and U.S. forces were leaving. This failure may have resulted from a lack of desire on the part of the Obama administration to keep sufficient troops in Iraq, from its inability to make a deal, from its unreasonable demands, from Iraqi intransigence, or from all of the above. From a strategic and national-security standpoint, the only thing that matters is that by failing to secure a new agreement, the U.S. failed profoundly to secure its hard-won gains. Even more important, it failed to secure its interests.
It is most important of all to recognize the price of that failure. Iraq has become a major strategic vulnerability for the United States.
"Trillion dollars here, Trillion dollars there, pretty soon it adds up to real money." LOL (Thanks for that Senator Dirkson)
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100 Days 100 Miles 100 Climbs - Slideshow
in Events Forum
Posted
The correct spelling Steve, as we saw on the slide during the show, was "CLOD ONE".
I was wondering if that was just Ricky helping put it together and being a crack up like he always is, or a genuine accidental spelling error.