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billcoe

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Everything posted by billcoe

  1. billcoe

    Wounded Knee

    OK, maybe he's trying to bond and I'm misunderstanding it all. Hmmm. Yes, finished the trail work and 2nd ed the climb. Worse on and even stupider - a few years back I took a face plant after falling off a roof while doing a tear off job. The first thing to hit anything was my face, which slammed the edge of the metal table. This snapped the facial bone thats under your eye socket there. That was before lunch. The bone was sticking straight out and the blood ran down to and soaked my shirt until my brother couldn't take looking at it and insisted I have a bandaid so he wouldn't have to look at it. It was threatening to rain and I didn't want the water to get in or stick my bro with the job. We had the roof dried in by 4pm so I headed to the hospital. They said "when did this happen? Cause it's all swollen up and we can't do anything for you until the swelling goes down and that's in about 2 weeks from now". They could clearly see the bone still sticking out, not as sharp of an angle though, as well. Dohhh! ps, skipped lunch, but took a shower (wherin it looked like an Alfred Hitchcock slasher film in the shower) first.
  2. Not mine, but you rule for offering them to the owner! Haydar Rules!
  3. ropegoat maintenance request package. link to info
  4. billcoe

    YES!!!!!

    We use to think of the Sonics as our brothers to the North, but then they moved into a trailer with some skanks down in Oklahoma Territory and none of us can stand them anymore...... Good luck with the current ballclubs that their owners are allowing to stay in Seattle...for now, until one of the Mario Bros wants to move to a warmer climate.
  5. Fixed that for you sir! BTW John, that's only cause your in such superb shape. Old marshmallows like me can't keep up with any of you:-)
  6. billcoe

    Wounded Knee

    I'll bet that camping with you is real fun. Just as the fire gets going real strong you do a stinky steamy piss right into it I'll bet. Then you drop trou and crap on the picnic table so that people can remember you when they wake up the next day and have breakfast. Very memorable, not in a good way I mean. Thanks to everyone else for the well wishes!
  7. billcoe

    Wounded Knee

    Fuck that, I reads dat shit fer yer stellar writing. We can copy and paste someone else's pics as we all know what it looks like:-) How was it for you when you weren't shivering your ass off? I've done it with only nuts. The most memorable part of that is when my partner, clipping my pro which had just held me, pops a #7 wired stopper on the 2nd pitch traverse (if you did it as 3 total) and swings out over that overhang into big air space. Cams and cam hooks make some of this stuff much better on the nerves.
  8. billcoe

    Wounded Knee

    At my age, bailing at 2pm is a full day anymore:-) Whacked it at noon, covered it with a bandage and tape, finished up the trail work and then followed Kyle up the new route, which he named "Wounded Knee" both for the knee and for the interesting Indian Head feature nearby. I got home and also got at least a 1/2 an hour from my laughing wife on how I can be now be the camp bitch in Yosemite next month! She says: "repeat after me, would you boys be having the pancakes or the cereal for breakfast this am", and " You fellas go climb I'll clean up the dishes and tidy up the camp".
  9. I thought they were on something like this. How do you get a clean shot? Seals: Pretty tough dudes. My neighbor down the street is a PJ (airforce parajumper (Pararescuemen?), they're the dudes do the Mt Hood rescues via helicopters around here or if you read "The Perfect Storm", they jumped out into the sea that day. Anyway, went to his house for a party once and was talking to my next door neighbor who was @ 15 years younger than me. I said, it's striking that you can so easily tell who the neighbors are and who the PJs are cause they all look like fit athletes (bunch of uber fit badass looking kids running around) He looks at me head on all offended and says to me in a loud mock unhappy voice "Hey damit!" . I'd forgotten that he was an All American and on the United States Rugby team when younger as he'd gotten soft(er) than when he was an athlete.
  10. billcoe

    Wounded Knee

    Fucker. I promised my wife I'd stay around here as there was a social function Sat night. ( She had to ask 3 times to talk me out of Smith). I was thinking either East Face or North Face weather dependent. Can't wait for the TR Ivan! Starting to leak, just up the hill from my steller backflip performance wherein my buddies gave me low marks of 7.6, 7.3 and 7.1 respectfully as I didn't "stick the landing". Hmmm, judges, pfft, what the hell do they know anyway. By the time I'd hiked out then driven my ass home, I had quite the blood collection system going in my shoe and the leg had swollen up substantially. It had soaked the bandage just working with gravity. This is that it was looking like after climbing for a bit b4 hiking and driving out. After climbing, still bloody. Don't know whats so damn funny but I suspect Kyle had just reminded me he'd named the route "Wounded Knee". That's why Kyle is It continued to soak the sock and fill my shoe on the hike out and drive home. Wife was pretty incredulous. Had an excuse to blow off the function though, it all works out somehow. The knee swollen up to about double of normal and was almost impossible to walk on later though.
  11. billcoe

    Wounded Knee

    Little of both JH, but it will get back soon. Wow, all you dudes hanging around town should have gone East of the Mt's or to Smith this weekend, bet it was great weather!
  12. billcoe

    Wounded Knee

    Thanks Keith! Yup, wish we were discussing the massacre but that is not the reason I'm in the house today. Rolled off a trail and the knee hit a sharp rock. 4-6 stitches. Back @10 days.
  13. Damn, that's saying a lot too! Here's my poor contribution to this (otherwise great) thread Nate:
  14. billcoe

    Wounded Knee

    that's all for now
  15. The world which you live in must be dark indeed.
  16. NUTS! Saturday at 9am on the Ozone trail. Washer and hanger as well. No Loctite, evidently some things you just have to have yourself.
  17. Here's the main one to head to the Granite in Leavenworth or places beyond. You increase the chance of permanently breaking off features if it had rained recently as the rock will be weaker due to the moisture infiltration. This is a truism for all sandstone materiel. Including super hard stuff in Australia.
  18. Kevin says it's a Fixe 12mm bolt! Do don't go running up there with a 3/8" nut or you're screwed! 12mm NUT only! Probably a standard 1.75 thread, tighten to approximately 44 lbs/ sq ft. have a nice day!
  19. 100 percent bone all the bone and nothing but the bone. (ie, thats Kevins route) It's funny Kevbone lives on this site and hasn't checked in on this thread to tell us the size of the installation, lets change the title and see if he see's it. That should rile him all up. However, the odds of it being a 3/8-16 stainless steel US anchor brand goes up to @ 90 percent I believe. Making your job easier. If you need anything from me, like a few of these Esna nuts, let me know I'll figure out how to get you a few.
  20. billcoe

    Howl is ur Day?

    Me too. sorry.
  21. Grrr: same! This must be Porters fault. LOL
  22. Trying this in a larger version.
  23. 3 of the dudes put that up post here all the time. Kevbone, Crimper and MarkD. They can tell you the bolt size. I think it's a 3/8-16 stainless steel wedge anchor. If it is, get a 3/8-16 Esna Nut stainless steel, put the flatwasher then the hanger on (Flatwasher is not critical but helps strengthen the hanger) then thread the nut on the stud and with a torque wrench, torque it down to 25-30 foot lbs. If it's the larger 1/2-13 stud, torque it to 50-60 foot lbs. The alternate method is get a standard stainless steel nut and use loctite. ___________________________________________________________ Good luck! ps - here is the spec sheet on that wedge anchor. It is most likely this US Anchor brand as that's what was pretty prevalent, however, if you know it's a Powers drop (or any other check their web site) the torque down to 20 foot lbs for a 3/8" bolt, or better to consult their web site rather than my poor memory.
  24. billcoe

    Howl is ur Day?

    Be better once 9mm is available again.
  25. As I get older, I find that I am on occasion, getting horribly painful cramps in the insides of my thighs after climbing. I'd seen some good info on this site about Accelerade and the other version they make and started using it. Same cramps. Jimmy O suggested I do "Calm", which I did and it worked much better. However, it's not a sports drink and tastes like crap. I had seen John Friehs recommendation that all the Hammer stuff was the best. So I tried the Heed. Hammer Heed electrolyte drink. IT IS THE ONLY THING THAT WORKED TO STOP THE CRAMPS. I don't know a hell of a lot, but I do know that much. The stuff is expensive, which I think prevented me from committing to it at first. Worth it - for me. Now I'm keeping the electrolyte pills in the car so I always have some if the need is there.
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