Skip_M._Kliphiem

Between the Mammut Cloud Hooded Jacket and the Patagonia Puff Jacket which would you choose and why? With the Patagonia sale and great deals at Second Ascent the prices are close to the same.

February 20 to 29, Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival, Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada. Mountain film festival with top notch guest speakers, films, photo contest, bouldering/climbing contest and special events. Watch website for event updates. Contact: www.vimff.org, info@vimff.org, or 604-990-1505.

Bwahahahahahaha

I'm looking at the Mammut booklet (page 13) that came with my 7.5 twin ropes: "WHAT TYPE OF ROPES ARE THERE" There are basically three different types of rope, each suited for different applications, which are tested... a. Single Ropes , symbol: the number 1 within a circle, an illustration with a climber clipping all pieces with the rope. b. Twin Ropes , symbol: 2 linked circles within a larger circle, an illustration of a climber tied in with 2 ropes, clipping all pieces with both ropes. c. Half (double) Ropes , symbol: 1/2 within a circle, an illustration of a climber tied in with 2 ropes, alternatly clipping pieces left and right. In the glossary (page 30) definition of: Double Rope Technique; also known as a Half rope technique There are no definitions for Single or Twin rope tecnique, only a reference to page 13. There is apparently some debate on these terms.

Er, Stevens Pass, 9AM to 3PM. Bring your own boots and poles. I'm always forgetting something. 2 weeks ago I forgot the ropes! I'll probably forget my boots tomorrow.

Mt Hood Ski Bowl has an event similar to this on the evening of 2/10. It's sponsored by the Mountain Shop in Portland and there is a $10.00 fee for the demos.

"Tele TuesDaze #5, presented by Black Diamond Drop knees not Bombs! Come up for the big demo! All of our sponsors will be here to hand out the latest and greatest gear for you to try for free!" Marmot Telemark Ski Demo ~ FREE! Test the latest in Telemark skis from K2, Rossignol, and Atomic along with boots from Scarpa and Garmont. Sales reps will be on site to answer your questions. Bring ID and your own telemark boots and poles.

I would pay $85 dollars to attend a clinic that would help me improve my searching technique, cut back victim burial time and gave me an opportunity to compare some of the new digital tranceivers side by side in a scenerio closer to reality than a showroom floor. Bells and whistles in electronics are a manufacturers way of getting you to buy NEW. If it can save a life, it's worth it. Otherwise it's just a marketing ploy. I have had an Ortavox F1 for the last 7 years. I would like to upgrade to something with a longer range and would facilitate a faster search in a multiple victim situation. I don't think I would ski with you if you were not willing to do the same. Are your skiing companions lifes not worth $85?

It would be way cool if they had some of the new Peips that detect multiple burials. I checked one out at the store a couple of weeks ago and it was easy to use. Icons of victims were deleted as each one was found. The class would be worth it to me if one had an oppertunity to check out the new models. Anyone have some feedback from personal experience with one?

Trudged up to Hubba Hubba on Sunday with a couple of buddies to find another party of 3 just getting started. The route on the right was looking kind of thin but I would not let my partners talk me out of it, eager fool that I am. The 1st pitch is thin, rotten and half unconsolidated snow and I was glad that I had some stubbies. The first 30" of the second pitch was pretty much the same before it backed off and was all snow. We had one 50M rope and twin 60's would have taken me to a good tree belay where we could of rapped from. Instead I brought one up and then lowered him so that the other could climb and then the 2 of us ascended to where we could walk off. The conditions were similiar to the time I backed off of the first crux on the 3X Couloirs. I'm ready now, anyone game?

Thanks for all the feedback. 'water resistance' would be more accurate...I posted prior to my second cup of coffee, the expanded vocabulary does not kick in until after that.

Any advice or recommendations on treating them with waterproofing? I've heard that SnoSeal breaks down the stitching and Dave Page says that people put way too much treatment on their boots.

I worked this weekend...made a lot of cash and now I've decided to take the week off!

Live in fear, conform, consume

A while back I worked in Oil Exploration as a surveyor, lived in Pinedale, Riverton, Lander and Guernsey. Played in the Winds, the Tetons, Vedauwoo, Sinks Canyon and Freemont Canyon. It's a beautiful wild place. Stay out of Rock Springs, it's the armpit of the state. Summers are great but the winters are as everyone state. Would I live there again? Nope! Plan to spend some time there but set a departure date and save some money so you can follow through. You can always change your mind if you fall in love with the place. Remember, Denver is only a few hours drive away. I would suggest reading some books by Gretel Ehrlich. She lives in Wyoming and writes beautifully about what it's like.

A week ago Monday I stopped by REI to try on some boots before surfing for an on-line deal. Sales guy walks up and asks if I need some help, I ask him about this new boot here and he says " well, let me introduce you to Jim Donnini our spokes person, he'll tell you all about it. It's between 5 and 6 PM and the stores practicaly empty so I hang out with Jim for about 45 minutes and he tells me all about the boot and the system and we just chat for a while. Nice guy that Jim. I tried on a couple pair and he elaborates on all the details and the testing and developing they have been doing for more than 2 years. It's a comfortable boot (for my foot at least) and I figure the plate on the bottom would take a little practice getting used to but it's no more difficult than the toepiece of a DynaFit binding. In fact it's that plate that makes it suck a bomber combination. He was honest with me when I asked if other crampons were compatible and said no, not really. Toast was right when he said there will be other boots and another crampon. I would have to argue about them being "extremly soft" though. It's designed for mixed climbing and flexible is good. The crampon is going to stay on the boot and thats more important. In the photograph of Donnini using the boot, his crampons have a heel hook. Maybe they tested it and it did not work out. I don't know. Why don't you flash Montrail and ask them about it. The crampon is switchable from dou to mono and can be placed on either side. No doubt you would want it in front of your big toe, that's where your balance is. I'm goint to wait till next season. It's an expensive system to buy into.

"over relatively easy terrain" The Flavelle-Howe goes at 5.10b. Most climbers would not consider that to be relatively easy terrain. IMHO-Long ropes on moderate ground are more work than they are worth. Lots of twist, and snags on the rappel. Short ropes are great for running belays over sustained easy ground. As long as the descent is a walk off or just a couple of short raps. Fast and light. A long rope would be ideal on something like Royal Arches where you would use it to facilitate a speedy descent down a well bolted rap route. Not well suited for alpine where you need more options. Even if it cost less than buying 2, 9mm 50's, you would end up with same color ropes. Not my choice for climbing double 9's even if it had a bicolor pattern. They could end up crossing one another unless you were very attentive. In the long run you might end up chopping it in half. Great for fixed lines!

Yep, and then there's the sales guy who casually mentions "I'm a climbing guide" every time he helps me out. Is he trying to impress me or do I look that clueless.

Thanks for all the helpful suggestions. What if I don't have any tennis shoes or tennis balls, would a tennis racket work? It's an old Wilson T3000 like Jimmy Conners always played with. BTW, That Marylou looks vaguely familiar.

I have a couple of quality bags that are getting close to mankey. What's your advice on washing them yourself and /or having them professionally serviced. Is there a place in Seattle one would recommend? I don't want to send them off somewhere.

Two of my good Buddies had plans for the Grand Wall this weekend. Please keep me informed. Thank You.

Carved up the north slope below Castle Col today. There was at least 8 inches of new snow. They did not open the gate until 11, the slackers forgot to set their clocks ahead!

I am looking for a light weight pack in this range. Don't want to spend more than $200 and that's with tax. Not interested in bells and whistles. What's your choice and why?

Tons of powder, no ice.

Lisa and her dog Shasta met Jerry and me at the Glacier Ski Shop at 9:00. We continued on to the upper parking lot (4200') and were on our way by 10:00. The lot was filling up quickly with the promise $40's worth of "freshies". Our intent was to forego payment in search of the real thing. On the road to Austin Pass (4700) we encountered one other party tracking up. There was a small parade working there way towards Herman Saddle for some front country skiing. Saturday was cloudy with a few sun breaks and light snow @ about 30 degrees. After 3 hours travel, we made camp in the basin below Lake Ann Butte at 4000'. The plan was to camp at the lake but when going higher only promised poor visibility, we decided to spend the night lower. The entire basin was untracked! The Megamid went up quickly and after a snack we skinned to the ridge crest closer to Shuksan Arm for a run back to camp. Variable surface conditions high and more consistently delightful lower. Snow pack stable and improving. Brief views of Mt. Shuksan and Mt.Baker as the skies tried to clear. The cloud cover kept the temperatures mild through the evening and provided us with another inch of snow. Skies cleared overnight and the temperature dropped to 10 degrees very quickly. After waiting until the sunshine graced our camp at about 9:30, we started making tracks up to the saddle between Lake Ann Butte and Mt. Ann (5300'). Cresting the ridge @ noon and greeted by a cold breeze we were peeling skins quickly for the best run we have had all season. Jerry and I went back to the saddle for another run while Lisa and the powder hound found a sweet line skier right half ways up. Back to camp for lunch and a cup of hot tea before packing and tracking back to Austin Pass. A fast run down through the deserted lift area had us back to the car in an hour and a half. Dinner and beverages in Maple Falls at The Frosty Inn, home by 9:00 PM. If only the rest of the season could be this good !