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Everything posted by skykilo
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Climbing in New Mehico?? Any near Las Cruses?
skykilo replied to TurinTheLost's topic in Climber's Board
Hi I really like life in Northern New Mexico. I haven't been to Las Cruces but it looks like there should be good granite trad climbing in the Organ Mountains, very close. It probably gets hot down there in the summer but should be really good for winter climbing. New Mexico is different and interesting. The Sandias (Albuquerque) are full of adventure climbs. It seems like there is good cragging all over the state. All of the climbs close to Los Alamos are short, JayB, but the quality is excellent. The Sandias and Questa Dome are both good for longer routes nearby. -
The whole mesh mask/gag suppressor procedure looks harsh! I hope it's 100% successful for you.
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There's a climbing wall in town at The Y, two minutes up the road from my place, but I can't see myself going there when there's epic year-round outdoor climbing ten minutes down the hill.
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[TR] Euro-epic and climbing - 11/5/2011
skykilo replied to wayne's topic in The rest of the US and International.
Be honest about bailing, Wayne: Tom scared you, didn't he? Just kidding. Tom's a good guy. That's great you got to play over there. -
Naomi is an unabashed gym tweaker and she swears by taping hers somewhat tightly. She uses skinny tape and makes an X pattern around the knuckle. It doesn't necessarily remove the stress from the pulley, but it makes her more conscious of when she's using it more intensely and makes her tend to use an open grip more. Alternatively, come to New Mexico and I'll throw you on juggy stuff, cracks and slabs and you can simultaneously cure your SAD.
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I don't care what people say about rehearsing routes into submission. Sure, it's a step or two lower on some theoretical totem pole than OS FS but it's still burly. I've been top-roping routes into submission lately. It's a lot of fun and the ones with committing moves and tiny gear still give me a good scare when I finally lead them.
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I had no clue that Cinch was literally the name of a device This is a non-issue for me so I'll save my four Jacksons.
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How about a picture? An example? More words!? I can search for cinch (duh, it's a cinch) but the results aren't so useful. I frequently TR solo these days and I don't have this problem but I'm not at all sure what the cinchers mean. I use one rope, prusik above a Petzl Basic so the Basic pushes the prusik up the rope as I climb. If I want to escape my setup, I have Tibloks and an ATC and a sling or two. All very simple. That's what I've been doing.
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A fizzy cyst would just rig that shit with a buncha scrap layin' around the lab backyard. I just built like three death traps today! We got an engineer but he stays wayyyyyyyy busy and there's ample opportunity for DIYing.
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Good show. Gaudeamus igitur iuvenes dum sumus!
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[TR] Wine Spires, Rampage, Action Potential - 8/7/2011
skykilo replied to wayne's topic in North Cascades
Thanks; guess I can't see it 'cuz I have signatures OFF. -
[TR] Dragontail Peak - Serpentine ArĂȘte 8/7/2011
skykilo replied to mitch334's topic in Alpine Lakes
There's a lot of good choss to toss up there, though! -
[TR] Wine Spires, Rampage, Action Potential - 8/7/2011
skykilo replied to wayne's topic in North Cascades
Wayne, Where is the blog? I like the 2 pics (how can one not like the silhouette of Goode?) and I'm glad you had a good time. -
I might head to Index on my way through Washington next week. I'll probably have a set of Wallnuts, a set of offsets and some RPs. And if I climb Godzilla to Sloe Children, I'll clip that bolt.
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Wayne, you're way better than this. It's just waiting for somebody stupid enough to ski it! But good luck if you must and come home psyched and safe.
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i heard you're all three prolific pederasts. end of discussion.
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I'm moving to the desert. Looks like one for Ross. Surfer dude is into those water sports. Ha ha.
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Yo Mike, I'm moving the NNM on (or before) March 7 and I'll be interested in weekend romps to the Creek or Zion. 'Sposed to have three-day weekends every other week. (That's one reason for the move, eh?)
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[TR] Mt. Stuart - Ice Cliff Glacier ski- 2/1/2011
skykilo replied to telemarker's topic in Alpine Lakes
Nice try. That's actually pretty good to have the Ice Cliff skiable this time of year to the b-schrund, if you ask me! I tried that damn thing four or five times before I finally got it. -
It would be an oversimplification to call Dan's trip "skiing" without further qualification, in my opinion. It seems more like a vision quest with skis as an enabling tool in his shaman's kit. Want to ski or have a beer on Friday, Dan? I'm flying from SEATAC on Saturday so I have to head south this week.
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Trip: SWBC - Early Season Alpine Steeps in the Coast Mountains Date: 1/19/2011 Trip Report: The first week of December, I had the great pleasure to ski alpine steeps in the Spearhead Range and finish the day with a long run down Husume all the way to Whistler. There hasn't really been a letdown since. The quality of this season for the type of skiing I love best continues to blow my mind. This song expresses how I feel about it all. [video:youtube]lPM3V-qfUCo December 4 - Skied the NW Face of Pattison with Alex and Ziff. What time is it!? On the way to Pattison That's some nice early-season alpine powpow. More from NW Face of Pattison December 17-19: An epic birthday trip with the cc.com artist known as lunger. He's old as dirt but he still kills it. We hit the West Face of Iago Even though we had to pull some spicy ski-boot shenanigans to get through the high route below Overlord. Old man on the rocks. This thing was a mellow little str8line two weeks later. The line was epic apres-sunset powder. More on the West Face of Iago. Then lunger and I hit a party in Pemby with one of the best DJs in the world and some 16yo chicks tried to panty-raid us. But we stayed the course and schralped the Aussie Couloir on Joffre the next day. That's that thang. And this too is good. There are some happy light-show photos on my Aussie Couloir TR. December 30 - We bailed on a more epic trip during an arctic outflow while Ryan unfortunately got frostbite on his toes. Sorry about that, buddy. Alex and I were superstoked to bag the North Face of Cheakamus as a consolation prize, though. Powgasm There is much more in my North Face of Cheakamus Mountain TR. January 3 - Naomi is a badass ski-racer rock-climber experimental-nuclear-astrophysicist lady from Austria. She got her first touring setup and to christen it, we dropped Joffre Couloir. Here's her setup and our anchor to rap the rock step at the top. She was fresh off the plane from a three-week trip to visit family in Japan and she had a superfancy new camera. She took this neato action shot. More about our Joffre Couloir shenanigans. Now Naomi has her legs so Wednesday we hit the trifecta on Tremor and Pattison Naomi on North Face of Tremor Skiing Hourglass Couloir on the west side of Tremor Tremor, I'm still quaking. I just skied in my pants! More on Tremor, North Face and Hourglass Couloir plus Pattison Many thanks to all my BC-schralping partners in crime and MUCHAS GRACIAS, LA NINA! hasta luego
