Toast

Weathermen have gotta justify their existence somehow

Sure, I'd like the coaching, but if I build an anchor and weight it, that's my judgement saying it's good, not his. None to blame but me if it blows [ 11-15-2002, 02:01 PM: Message edited by: Toast ]

Sure, now we have an even pair... at least I think we do with Lambone, Leejams, you and me. Gotta hear back from the two of them still.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Shit disturbing 1) Is Lambone AMGA certified? 2) Is he making Lee and Toast sign a waiver? 3) Will there be lawsuits in the event of an accident? Phuck that , this is more like a good guy offering to coach a few newbies on anchor setups.

Saturday works for me... but we better finalize this pretty quick. Today's Friday For the sake of expediency, I propose meeting Saturday at 10:00 AM at the base of Index Town Wall. If we get our shit together, maybe we can get a real climb in too. Pipe up, who's in?

quote: I took a fast-learning newbie out to Index and let him lead Godzilla (he had already led crux pitches of Outer Space that year). He took a head first whipper. He didn't get injured (his pro held) but his drive to climb appeared to taper off quickly following that incident. You sure you wanna do that to yourself? Nope, but Lambone could use another body to help coach me and Lee on belay anchor set ups Someday I'd like to do Godzilla, but I'll probably follow my first time out on it. [ 11-15-2002, 11:07 AM: Message edited by: Toast ]

Well hey chucK, you can be the fourth we need for Index this weekend and prove it to us

Lambone PM'd me that he's in, but he'd prefer to have a few more of us out there. I dunno, I think a 2:1 ratio is about right... of course, another body would balance us out into two nice pairs. Any takers?

Matt, Eddie...?

Okay, Sunday at Index it is. Lambone, Greg W, Cap'n, are you guys still in to help coach? Chepe's loadin bowls and Lee and I will buy pitchers after I have a hunch Lee's done his homework like I have What I hope to get out of this is some critiquing on rigging belay anchors and some tricks of the trade you guys will hopefully pass on If this works out successful, maybe we can take Wallstein up on his offer to run a self rescue clinic in December. I'd certainly be up for that. Mike, you rock

Okay, all fingers point to Index. Now the question is when. This weekend or next weekend, Saturday or Sunday?

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: Just let me know and I'll be there. Lambone, I'm in. Sounded like Leejams is, TLG might be, and SK could be if she transported her butt up here How about we plan to do this next Saturday down at Spire Rock as Figger8 suggests? I've never been there, but I like the idea that thing is suited for a setting up a hanging belay and working the transfer. Who's in?

quote: Originally posted by Muffy The Wanker Sprayer: "Your gaper-fu is no match for my Southern Filipino Tiger Spray-fu!" -Figger Eight I love that! You two must have grown up watching bad kung fu movies too

quote: Originally posted by thelawgoddess: quote:Originally posted by Lambone: VW is currently running a series of clinics on lots of different stuff. check it out. fyi: $5/clinic at the magnolia location; free in redmond. More like $40 for a non-member... besides, you can't drink beer there. I dunno, maybe it was a lame idea. I do like the idea of tying thelawgoddess up in her bedroom

Two words... http://nawashibari.com/ [ 11-07-2002, 12:37 PM: Message edited by: Toast ]

quote: Originally posted by AA: Anyone have any stories of being in a situation like this and what you did? (if it's not too hard for you to discuss) I was with my friend G at the base of the Tooth many years ago. Climbers above had kicked loose a grapefruit sized chunk of rock. G ducked behind a tree but his hand was exposed and his middle finger more or less got deboned when the rock smashed down on his hand Anyway, the thought of shock and the prospect of getting stuck behind the pass was going through my mind. I was frank with him that this was my concern and that we needed to stop the bleeding and get back to the trail pronto. I dressed his hand in a bandanna, packed with snow and he tried to keep it elevated as we descended. All worked out fine with the exception that G now has a permanent fuck-u finger. In hindsight, I think we did an okay job. I've taken a MOFA class since and now know there are other things I should have checked. Yes, these classes are extremely time consuming, and much of what they teach is common sense. However, they do drill on fundamentals that can help keep you and your partner's ass alive in grim circumstances. Maybe it's just me, but I kinda think its a no brainer that all of us should have some kind of first aid knowledge... even if it's only from reading a book. I'd get a little pissed if you let me bleed to death because you forgot to check

quote: Originally posted by thelawgoddess: ...it's going to be fucking wet fucking eveywhere this fucking weekend. (not that i'm fucking letting that affect my fucking mood.) My point exactly. Daylight is short and the weather is less than predictable. I've been trying to think of a way to work on anchor systems and mechanics without having to drive an hour out of town... which basically limits you to a weekend day... which is tough to schedule if the probability is high that that you're gonna get soaked. For the sake of efficiency, my suggestion would be to narrow the scope and run a focused clinic on complex anchor systems... an equalized anchor set up with cordalette, quick efficient methods of setting anchors in opposition for an omni, hybrids of the two and a little discussion of why and when you'd do so. That's pretty basic, but it gets a little more complex when you add in handoff from a hanging belay. I was a little slow on the uptake of my first hanging belay, and I'd like to get straight where I clip in and what I can unclip when without having the prospect of a 300' drop below me messin' with my concentration. Basically I'd like to work out these mechanics in advance in a safe environment... preferably with a beer within reach. In my mind, what I've just described is enough for about a two hour clinic. With that foundation, I'd be a little more comfortable picking a weekend to climb and put that knowledge into action on real rock. This could be another clinic or a real climb. Lambone, I just noticed your last post. I'm up for that as well, but I think we'd get more out of it if we got some of the mechanics greased on the ground. I like the idea of scheduling this before one of the Pub Clubs and heading down for a beer with the rest of the crew after. Just my $0.02 [ 11-07-2002, 05:04 PM: Message edited by: Toast ]

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: I could be tempted to instruct with some type of compensation other than $ ie. , perhaps we could do it before pub club sometime. The biggest question is where? I can open up my place in Fremont, and I'm happy to pitch in on beer and pizza. Now the question is when?

Here's an idea... Any interest out there in running a couple of indoor mini-clinics on complex anchor systems, self rescue and all the stuff a good newbie should have down cold before venturing out to lead? Like some of you, I'm new to rock climbing, but I'd like to learn to lead. Recent threads have pointed out that a new climber has no business being on the sharp end of a rope without acceptance of the risk, good judgment and solid technical skills. I've been reading and re-reading Long's Climbing Anchors as well as all the print material I can get my hands on. On occasion I'll get up the gumption to rig table legs and chairs into multi directional or equalized anchors and practice emergency tie off This is all good, but practicing solo lacks some of the scenarios like dealing with rope management and swapping leads on a hanging belay. Besides it'd be handy to have a few eyes scrutinizing the systems and get some collaborative input I'm not saying I know how to do all this, but I want to make sure I figure it out... and I'd like to make sure you do too Any interest out there... Leejams, SK, TLG, others? [ 11-15-2002, 01:31 PM: Message edited by: Toast ]

Yep, I got the same fever. Looking for any opportunity to get out mid-week... though, I really gotta find some work soon

quote: Originally posted by mattp: quote:Originally posted by Toast: How about this as a query: Name a few good in-city cracks to practice on Most "cracks" you find in the city, formed concrete seams or gaps between two separate concrete structures, are straight and parallel sided and do not really replicate real cracks. You will find some big-stone rock walls with more irregular "cracks," but these don't really replicate real cracks, either. You really gotta go to Index, or further afield, to find real cracks to practice putting gear into. For climbing practice, there are a few cracks at the UW rock, Stone Gardens has one (doesn't it?) and there are plenty of buildering problems scattered about town. Thanks Matt. I guess one thing that sucks about Seattle is that it's just a rubble pile of glaciel till (sigh)

BTW, thanks for all the great recommendations on first trad routes to lead

Okay, lots of people have recommended placing gear off the ground as a start. I wandered over to Little Si and found a good crack to practice an equalized anchor, but that's a bit of drive for just farting around. I have a crack in the concrete retaining wall in back of my house and I've seen a few other spots around town. These are all fine but limited to just a few good placements each. How about this as a query: Name a few good in-city cracks to practice on

quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: I haven't been to Chiapas, and have only heard bad things about that state. I say to that!! I've traveled through Chiapas state twice, and I can say is it's an honest slice of Mexico I'd be happy to visit again. There are next to no Gringo tourists, and the smiles I encountered were the real thing. Yes there's the army looking for rebels and an occasional roadblock to deal with, but I assume TG and his family don't look like they're looking for trouble. To be honest, you've only got a month, so I doubt you'll make it that far. But if you do... San Christobal de las Casas is worthy. Try the tepache (sp?) a local specialty and a very refreshing drink. It's more or less slightly fermented pinapple water packaged up in used Coke bottles with corks atop. If you head further East into the Yucatan you'll encounter wonderful local fare and tamales that will melt in your mouth. I don't know the names of some of the food I encountered, but mmmm. Words of wisdom: Do take acidophilus suppliments daily and eat fresh yogurt when you encounter it.