robertjoy

I plan to climb Ingalls E.ridge next weekend: what can you tell me about snow? Should we take crampons and ice axe to ascend the gully up to the e.ridge notch?

Camping tomorrow at Lake Ann, should I expect snow at the lake?

Can anyone tell me what conditions are like for Mt Shuksan/Fischer Chimneys now, both for the route and access?

Unless you are climbing 5.10 frequently, you don't need to size your shoes like a Chinese princess to do the moves. For general use, especially alpine, "snug" is fine. On long alpine routes, spending hours on your feet, you don't want any pain. On sport routes, unless your ability is up above 5.10, you don't need the extra compression. Beginners should size their shoes "snug but comfortable" out of the box, and don't count on the shoe to stretch appreciably. AFTER climbing for several months you can buy a second pair of specialty shoes if they are needed.

If I said that Jerry Garcia was overrated as a musician because of his status as a cultural icon, would that make me un-hip?

Let me get this straight... You are traumatized by your friend's sudden death, and rather than attend his wake along with the community of all his friends and loved ones, you feel the wake might cause YOU additional pain, and you'd prefer to escape this additional fraction of sorrow by climbing. Wow. Skipping out would dishonor both your dead friend, and the community of his friends. A wake is not individual therapy dude, it is a ritual which REQUIRES A GROUP OF FRIENDS. Refusing to attend would be very insensitive, and you would gain nothing compared to the valid disrespect of your friends.

My daughter will be climbing Dragontail/serpentine this coming weekend with 5 friends. Can anyone describe current conditions (need crampons, axe?) on approach or (Asgaard pass) descent. Hate to carry in or carry over un-necessary gear .

On the pack-in our party of four from Portland passed several teams who were weathered off on Saturday. Sunday was perfect weather, and we found the glacier to be in great condition: all crevasses were very obvious, and snow was firm, but not icy. We traversed to the right around the final bergschrund, and then varied the std route a mite by going higher on the right and then traversing back to the center just beneath the large rock outcrop, not the small one just below. Conditions were rather icy on this exposed section over the "headwall". Icy conditions also on the final pitch to the summit, most teams were using screws to protect the descent. The route is so beautiful ! Why do 9 out of 10 groups go up Frostbite Ridge?

Five of us from Portland are planning to climb Glacier Pk/Kennedy Glacier this weekend, with bivy at Glacier Cr/PCT, near foot of Kennedy Glacier. Can you tell me if ground is snow-covered at this elevation, but most important, is there running water. We would prefer not to have to melt snow.

I'm planning to pack in to Green Lakes with a group of Explorer Scouts and climb South Sister on the 14th. Can I expect any parking available at Devils Lake or nearby, and how are snow conditions on the Green Lakes trail; hard? slushy, need snow shoes, good boot track? Can anyone fill me in?

So, teenager hates job, hates everything (you suggest for him to do). This negative attitude is hard to live with. What can you do with him for the summer? #1 No work, no money is a good general rule. #2 All summer? Let him camp at the beach in a big tent, resupply him with food once a week, $50 per week spending money. #3 Send him on a Greyhound bus to Camp 4 in Yosemite, with $100 a week spending money, a rope, rock shoes, and a helmet. And relax, whatever happens couldn't be worse that a summer a cantankerous emptyness at home with the parents.

One year ago I was shopping for a lighter axe, and I chose the Grivel Air Tech (not racing). Compared with the standard Raven it is stronger, sufficient to be rated for use as an anchor rather than just as for personal self-arrest. Ratings for this "strength" factor are extremely hard to find, but I figured that for a couple of ounces, the strength factor was important. And then there is the obvious fact that an ultralight axe does not really have the head weight for efficient ice work.

If a tarp is too low-tech, you might be interested in spending plenty for a tent that meets all your requirements. I have been pondering the NOMAD 2-4-2, by Wanderlust Gear (see site at wanderlustgear.com)which weighs about two pounds, has floor, room for two, costs around $300.