robertjoy

I use barge cement to repair minor peel-off or rips in the rands on my mountaineering boots. It is very effective. I use tightly pulled duct-tape to hold down the section which is being re-glued. I understand that this is exactly what a shoe repair shop would do.

If you are stopping to climb Mt Shasta, you might consider packing in to climb Mt Thompson in the Trinity Alps which is very close to Mt Shasta. I can say that the Three Sisters and Mt Adams (and Hood) are not really in good condition this late in the season. By this I mean too much exposed volcanic scree. Mt Thompson is granite, and even with little snow it is beautiful and pleasant to climb.

Snagging a spot in Camp4 generally requires being selected from the early morning applicants. So arriving after 7am means you don't have any chance. Where to stay when you arrive mid-day? You stay at the walk-in temporary camp (adjacent to North Pines Campground, no parking provided) for those who are registered to start a backpack trip the next day. The key is that you wait to approach the Ranger supervising that area until AFTER 5pm, so that they cannot insist that you show your (purchased) backcountry permit before being allowed to crash. You plan to get pick up the permit in the morning right before you start your pack-in. Not sure what the parking rules are now, but several years ago we had to use a parking area half a mile from the campsites. I would not trust this info to be up to date. Get a more recent confirmation on Summit Post, or call Yosemite and ask about the procedure for getting a backcountry permit when you arrive late in the day.

I am hoping to climb Little Tahoma June 19-21, but am pondering the low snow level this year, post holing on pack-in and climb, most especially 67% cloud cover and lowering snow level predicted. (I would rather avoid glacier travel inside a cloud.) Should I re-sched to mid July? Anyone with knowlege of most current conditions on Rainier or Little Tahoma?

Thanks for the comments. I am feeling much more optimistic about this now. Great site for snow levels. I am surprized that the snow does not seem so deep there, even now: 24" at 7,000ft.

I have been planning to spend a week at Lake Ediza, and climb Banner Peak and Mt Ritter. This is at the very end of JUNE. Can anyone in that area tell me if they think this year is a 'high snow' year? Should I even hope that there will be some dry land exposed at Lake Ediza that early in the season?

I would recommend the BD Contact Strap crampon from REI at the same price. The weight is higher (by 280g/) but they are steel, rather than aluminum. Steel crampons maintain their sharpness under 'normal abuse'. Also, the BD's teeth are standard length, and the CAMP's seem short. To me it makes no sense to sacrifice 'normal' functionality to save less than 10oz. Ray Jardine, ultralight hiker, may use aluminum crampons for crossing the occasional snow field on long trips, but they seem ill suited for technical use. 605g vs 885g

As an adult advisor with a youth climbing club (40 members, 12 peaks per year)I have had 15 years experience climbing with teenagers. You MUST have the parents sign a waiver/acknowlegement-of-risk for each activity. IE, don't climb without the parents' clear understanding of the planned activity: in the event of a death, this would give you a chance to avoid a presumption of negligence. Second, Have the liability coverage on your homeowner or renter policy increased to $500,000 or $1 million. Then act prudently, and don't sweat it.

The Garmin 60csx is my third GPS receiver. The large screen with topo maps makes the interface 'natural', in that you do not have to transfer the coordinates to a paper map, you can just 'see' where you are in relation to topo features. This means there is much less chance for confusion, especially in poor conditions. The onboard topo feature improves functionality by decreasing the time it takes to evaluate your location, so checking the GPS does not slow down your group. Also the Sirf Star III chipset is very powerful and fast, even in poor conditions. Time to lock-on is only a couple seconds. I highly recommend this unit. Bought mine online cheap.

I wear glasses, and have dealt for years with the fog problem. My suggestions are 1. Fog Tech (at REI) or 2. Parker's Perfect (2oz bottle is best) http://www.campingsurvival.com/parkersperfect.html On a 6 hour snow-shoe hike I usually have to re-do the Fog-Tech once. I find Fog-Tech is very easy to use, and does not require a wipe-off step, so it is simpler.

KYjelly?

A softshell is much more breathable than goretex, yet is more wind-resistant than standard fleece. Depending on ambient temp, wind, and assuming high activity (climbing)I will wear my softshell over medium weight zip-T, or if still chilly, add a fleece vest to warm the core while letting the arms and pits breathe more. If this isn't warm enough, such as when stopped for lunch, I wear my gore-tex shell over the whole setup.

I have owned three Garmins over the years. The most important feature in a GPS is the "high-sensitivity" receiver. This enables reception under tree cover, and of equal importance, faster satellite aquisition time. The older receivers are so weak and slow, that the user actually will avoid using them. I have the highest respect for the Garmin 60csx mapping unit. It locks on to satelites almost instantly, even under tree cover. The fact that you can load topo maps onto the unit make it useable without stopping to locate your GPS reading on a paper map. On the screen you can see the topography or waypoints ahead of you. It is intuitive, which is a safety factor. Under very adverse conditions having the topo on the screen can eliminate serious misreading. Current cost online seems to be arount $300. A compromise with the better chip set might be the GARMIN Etrex Venture HC for about $125.00 As it is different, I cannot vouch for it personally.

I see nothing wrong with a group of friends top-roping a route, if those not climbing are actually waiting, and not climbing an adjacent climb. Tying up adjacent routes, and having party members rotate through from one to the next is unfair to anyone else who is willing to 'get in line' after others who are waiting (not climbing nearby). 'Occupancy/Ownership' of the route cannot be passed on to those who are not actually waiting their turn to climb.

How much snow is there on the approach to the Tooth in Snoqualmie Pass?

Beginner: plastic or leather? Plastic boots have very rigid soles, which are not so good for the 8 mile hike in to a climb. Plastic boots are not very suited to climbing on rocky pinnacles. In my 20 years of experience, and multiple pairs of boots, the best most versatile boot is a medium weight leather with goretex liner. This type of boot is reasonably light weight, substantial enough to keep your toes warm in freezing temps, reasonably water-proof, and flexible enought for hiking and climbing rock. Two examples are 1. LOWA Mountain Expert GTX and 2. LaSportiva Glacier EVO (or Makalu). Treat all leather boots with TECHRON spray to make them waterproof. See REI at http://www.rei.com/category/4501296

I thought everyone who climbed Cooper Spur or Sunshine routes on Hood climbed it by doing a bivy at the Tilley Jane cabin. If you hike up to the cabin the night before with no cooking gear and no sleeping bag, just your regular climbing gear plus stove to melt snow, you can have a fire in the iron stove downstairs that puts enough heat upstairs to let you endure sleeping in your winter gear wrapped in a space blanket. A "bivy" at Tilley Jane is well below the timberline, but the extra hour so of ascent on climb day sure beats hauling tent and sleeping bag from the car up to a high cam" and they over the mountain.

Funny story, but it is not believable that we would be privy to the "facts" regarding the insurance claim made by the thieves. And I don't know of any police department that would put in any time on a vandalism claim. Vandalism is covered if the auto policy has full coverage, and no insurance company would deny a claim based on the fact that (alleged?) events preceeding the vandalism had not been fully reported.

We can all agree that the worst scenario would be to lose your axe completely, and slide to your death. This can be avoided in two ways: 1. attach ax to harness with long cord, or 2. attach ax to wrist with strap. The downside with 1. is that if you lose control of the axe, it may bounce violently in facial proximity as you slide down the steepness, or 2. you must transfer the ax-strap from wrist to wrist as you zig-zag up a slope, both time consuming and potentially dangerous during the transfer. I routinely use the harness attachment, but sometimes windup the excess length and use as a wrist-strap for steepest sections.

Footbeds will probably make your boots fit better, particularly if you have a narrow foot, or high arch (as I do). I presume you are wearing thick socks for insulation. When the boot actually fits your foot, you should not have a problem with shin bang. As a beginning climber using rented plastic boots, I had this problem a couple of time. Miserable. But I did get a better quality insole (more contoured) and did buy my own plastic boots, same model as the rented ones. Did not have the problem again. Plastic boots are very desirable for long glacier routes or overnight routes on snow. I presume you are currently renting plastic boots, so I would recommend purchasing your own high quality (contoured) insoles, and sizing the boots so they are not too large. Also, you should lace so that the foot section is "locked tight", and the upper section can be looser so that your ankle is more free to flex. At least that's the way I do it.

A year ago I heard about the GARMIN 60csx. I did a lot of research online, and it clearly represented the best available technology. High Points: 1. SirfStar III chipset give incredible reception, under trees, in valleys, inside cars, etc. Locks at least 30% more satellites. 2. Time to satelite lock is very brief. Cold start to lock is about a minute. Warm start (unit has been off for less than one hour)takes about 5 sec. This makes the Garmin 60csx a functional tool, since a reading can be taken almost instantly, without slowing the pace of the climbing team. 3. Onboard maps are very effective in providing a visual interpretation of the GPS reading, showing proximity to map features, and reducing the need to pull out the paper map. 4.Uses standard AA batteries. I use the new ENELON rechargeable lithium batteries, which are light and function well in cold. 5. Has altimeter included. 6. Currently available on AMAZON.com for $300. Is that too much? Well, this is the GPS that will work well when you need it. With the powerful receiver, and fast aquire times, this GPS won't be a pain to use like more primitive models, so you will find that you actually use it. And when the whiteout descends, it will save your butt, as intended.

I swear I am here!

For Sale: Garmin Geko 201, its mini, its basic, its yellow, its works great, its cheap, $35. located in Beaverton, Oregon call Robert at 503-643-9517

Pretty clear you are a "newbie". Are you aware that people have actually died climbing the South Side route? Are you figuring that the odds are in your favor? A very Courageous thought. The ascent from the Hogsback to the summit can be treacherous, depending on weather and snow conditions. Under the best conditions there is always the danger that another climber will fall, and knock you off. It is a very steep slide. With a kid on your back a beginner should not be confident that he could self arrest. Your kid won't miss the experience. Hold off on hauling your kid up a mountain until you have climbed at least five, and have some appreciation of the risk.

It is always annoying to read comments from those "rugged individualists" who routinely express contempt for beginning climbers and the local climbing organizations who train them. RuMR seem so back-off a bit, claiming his contempt was aimed at the climbing clubs, rather than the teens with their amusing helmets. But the victim had been selected, and another "rugged individualist" jumped into the fray with his comparison of these kids to "marshmallow mobsters". Are you suggesting the kids are "phoney"? Are you more manley? Are you the real thing? My comment to you guys is: GROW UP.